Oil Filter

[ians]

Was it just me being a plonker or is it bloody hard work changing the oil filter on a 3.

 

Even after I had chopped an old spanner in half the fuel pump and breather tube restricted access making it a pain to unscrew.

 

Hopefully it will be easier to put it back as its all nice and dry now not covered in oil.

 

Any one got any tips for the future?

Edited May 28, 2012 by ians

[vivdownunder]

With refitting make sure the correct thickness seal is used - Purolater heads take a different seal to the Tecalemit.

 

It helps to fit the new seal with a smear of grease to hold it in position. Double check with a small mirror. Any flaw with the seal will see the engine oil pumped out in short order. When satisfied with the seal, offer up the filter housing and screw up the centre bolt by hand as far as possible. A short combo ratchet head/open ended spanner is useful to tighten the housing bolt.

 

Viv.

[BrianC]

You should only need a spanner to initially loosen it to remove and finally tighten when replacing. Otherwise it can be removed and replaced by hand just like a spin-on canister - provided you support it to prevent cross-threading or bending of the fixing bolt.

[ians]

Piece of p*** putting it back on. All nice and dry and the long bolt turned with the body so only had to use the spanner for a couple of turns.

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

I use a long extension and socket from under the car to get it off and to retighten.

Do not forget to dig the old 'O' ring out the filter head. I use the canister without the bolt in to seat the new 'O' ring in the filter head.

I also pre oil the filter in the canister to reduce the 'dry cranking' time, when priming the system after the oil change with the spark plugs removed. Once oil pressure shews , back in with the plugs, start up, and immediately check for leaks!

Cheers

Peter W

Edited May 29, 2012 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[Don Elliott]

All of the above is good advice. To make it easier on my 1958 TR3A, I shortened the long bolt about 1/8" and ground or filed a chamfer on the end so it is somewhat "pointed". This helps reassembly. I use a ratchet closed end to loosen the bolt and to put it back on. With the bolt being shorter and the chamfer, I have gained another 1/4" and the hex head of the long bolt no longer interferes with the down pipe (sump breather).

 

While I'm putting it back on, I'm lying on my back directly under the gap looking up on an angle to ensure that the pointed end is entering the threaded hole at the correct position and entry angle. Then I tighten it.

 

I've been doing it this way for over 20 years.

[Andrew Smith]

Take off the breather pipe Ian, and it's a piece of cake.

 

Cheers

Andrew

[BrianC]

FWIW:

Having just done this job yet again this weekend, I tried a variation on my many previous efforts. In the past I've usually removed the drain plug and then undone the oil filter whilst the sump was draining. Problem then is that the filter, housing and perhaps the O-ring fall into the filthy oil container and splash oil everywhere, including me as I'm lying underneath. Then I have to work out whether or not the O-ring has dropped in there as well. So this time, I did it all from above, removing the oil filter first and checking that the O-ring was still in place. Normally, I leave the old one in situ at least every other filter change, but this time it was due for renewal (don't want to push my luck), so prised it out with an old dart and fitted a new one (see * below). Then removed the sump plug (no need to remove a wheel or jack the car up to do this) and left the sump to drain whilst cleaning the filter housing. All so easy, so why has it taken me so long to discover this process?

 

* The only minor delay was in deciding which of the two O-rings provided was the correct one for my current filter housing. They are very similar but apparently it's essential to fit the right one. In my case, both were slightly different in thickness and width to the predecessor, but checking on the stock of unused ones from previous changes it was fairly obvious which one was a best fit so I used the wider of the two on the grounds that if it went in, then it would provide the maximum surface area to seal the housing. However, just in case, I turned the engine over for a while with the ignition off to prime the filter and check for leaks, then a brief run in the garage before a longer road test.

 

This is really a very basic maintenance task but so easy to make it difficult and get things wrong.

[vivdownunder]

Are there any new tips for digging out the old filter housing seal without damaging its groove ?.

 

These days I use a honed meat skewer, but over the years have also used a large fish hook and the point of a compass.

 

Viv.

[Don Elliott]

I have a set of picks, much like my dentist might use. A set of 4 double ended picks, all with different curved pick shapes, cost me $5.00 CDN (£3.15) at a local shop that sells all sorts of tools etc. I keep 3 in my tool box and the 4th one I carry in the boot of the TR3A in a bag holding all my screwdrivers.