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ians

TR Register Members
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    656
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About ians

  • Birthday 08/30/1950

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    iselinger
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    ianselinger
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    iselinger

Profile Information

  • Location
    Berkhamsted / Nanteuil en Vallee
  • Cars Owned:
    Triumphs. been and gone - TR4, TR3, Roadster 2000, Spitfire, Mk2 Vitesse, Spartan

Recent Profile Visitors

546 profile views
  1. And the 'Spark' is back on active duty! Thanks to James Christie who sent me a new Red Rotor Arm. I will procure a replacement and send to him. I have again thoroughly inspected the old black one and can't see anything wrong but clearly it is faulty. We live and learn. Ian
  2. Charlie, Thanks for the offer. I have a new rotor arm on its way to me if that fails i may contact you for assistance.
  3. Dont think so as i can get a plug spark if i bypass the distributor.
  4. Thanks John, Champagne Mouton is about 8km away. Will get in touch with him.
  5. Thanks James for your kind offer, will message you with my details.
  6. Thanks John. i have several irons in the fire at the moment regarding access to parts. Will call you on Sunday
  7. Hi All, My sparks gone AWOL deep in rural France!. (16700) suggestions please. So it was rather warm on Thursday (36 degrees) but never the less we set out on a car club picnic. All was well on the 12km drive to the meeting place. however approximately 10 minutes after we set off in convoy the car started to splutter then lose power and eventually stop. i knew it wasn't fuel as just filled up, pump working, the filter bowl was clean and the float chambers were full. after a few minutes the car would start normally but struggle to accelerate, lose power and splutter to a stop after 20
  8. Thanks for all your comments. You've given me something to ponder over for the next few weeks. Ian
  9. My stock (1956 TR3) steering box is shot so i need to do something to make the beast go where i point it! I am considering a rack conversion. can someone who has done it please advise whether this entails taking half the front of the car apart or whether its relatively simple. Will buy a Moss or Rimmer kit any pros / cons. Do i need any thing else apart from the kit. Thanks in advance. Ian
  10. Its definitely only H not HS. I had already worked that one out from watching the Moss YouTube video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfLecCi0ppI They did say that the inlet diameter was smaller than the outlet so that was a bit of help but what they didn't mention was the two / four stud difference. Ian
  11. OK thanks guys its 4 stud so must be H6. Ian
  12. I need a rebuild kit and am trying to identify if I have H4 or H6 carbs without taking them off the car. There are no tags anywhere. 1956 TR3 but no gaurantee that they are the originals. I have measured the inlet diameter as 1.587 inches by removing the air filter. Any one know which they are? Thanks Ian
  13. No one seems to have mentioned the clearance between the pump impeller and the pump body which is critical to the pump performance. Not easy to check because you cant measure it directly and it has to be calculated. Not easy to adjust either but still critical! just a thought.
  14. Purchase a new sealed battery and replace the earth strap, Repair any damage to the battery box. New sealed batteries are infinitely better than the old open cells and the corrosion wont return. Belt and braces fit plastic iinsert and lightly grease the terminals and clamps.
  15. I posted this in the TR3 forum and received two replies indicating 0.625" was standard. As the pump is pretty standard accross many models I thought I would try here to see if anyone can throw any light on where the pump I have fitted comes from? ------------------------------------------- I have just removed the old 4 vane with grease nipple water pump from the car and pulled off the (wide belt) pulley so that I can fit it to the new uprated pump purchased from TR Shop this week. Problem - The pulley shaft on the old pump is 0.591" and the new one is 0.625" which clearly isn't
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