water pump

[GEORGIE]

In Moss's site there is an uprated water pump (six bladed) that looks as a good idea for us poor souls in the hot weather of Greece.Has any of you guys fit it and if so does it makes any difference?

 

thanks George

[Menno van Rij]

I would opt for the Racetorations version of the pump. Proven quality, I think.

 

http://www.racetorations.co.uk/page40.html

[Alec Pringle]

TR4Tony periodically has a batch of uprated water pumps manufactured.

 

Those I would trust, and the quality is proven . . . . . the price is a little more reasonable too, or was last time he mentioned them.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

[graeme]

I have had one of the uprated TR4Tony waterpumps fitted to my 4A for about 4 years with no problems. My understanding is that it is a standard 4 blade impellor with uprated, good quality bearings. I have heard that the 6 blade impellor can cause cavitation in the water system.

 

I am sure Tony will be along to clarify if I am wrong.

 

Cheers

[valvebounce]

Highly recommended I'd say, I've had a Racetorations pump on my car for ten years and it's been fine too.

 

That's included trips down to southern Spain and Italy and lapping Circuit de Catalunya and Circuit Valencia in very very hot weather with no cooling issues.

[littlejim]

I took the thing off, made a blanking plate for the hole, and used a Davies-Craig electric water pump, with electronic controller.

Another way to kill the cat.

[GEORGIE]

Thanks guys the thing though is that Racetorations pump is far more expensive.

[D1070]

My 5 has the Racetorations water pump, no problems after 5 years and 30k+ miles, you pays your money and takes your choice,

cheers,

Laurence

[Tr4Tony]

Hi all

 

My experience has been that the multi blade or 6 curved blade pumps seem to cause cavitation (ie air bubblng in the water and frothing instead of greater forced flow) particularly at high revs. In fact when you put a flowmeter in the circuit with one of the six blade pumps (on the 4 cylinder engine for sure, I havent done this with a 6 cylinder so cannot say its the same answer) they send LESS water round the circuit. That is, LESS volume of water flows, by a factor of about 25% in what I measured but this wasnt too scientific. Presumably this is because of the cavitation effect or maybe just because the gap between the blades doesnt hold / shift enough water as it turns, just stirs it up a bit. So in my view and from the tests I've done, they dont work. Not only that but the one I tested performed to a lower standard that a pump with the standard 4 blade impellor.

 

As as result, my preference is to run a 4 blade pump (basically as standard) but solve the bearing problem in the standard pump by putting a slightly bigger one in, as this was why the failure rate was so high in the first place. Running a thin fan belt also eases the load on the water pump spindle and therefore the bearng and this helps too.

 

I've run such pumps in Beastie's engine and had no failures or water pump issues in 9 years so I can only assume I've got this right. Others may have had different experience.

 

Im sure the designers of these multi blade pumps had a cunning plan, but the logic has alluded me thus far. I must be quite thick really.

 

Regards

 

Tony

[peejay4A]

...another happy TR4Tony customer here.

[North London Mike]

Oh Dear!

 

Just fitted an Racetorations alloy rad, alloy water pump and alloy housing (bought at 50% of retail, too shiny to pass up ) and can confirm very nice kit, immediate drop in running temp and a much faster recovery when the fan finally cuts in..................so have to assume its working, well on LNK at least. I'm happy !

 

Interested to hear Tony's comments, can only assume they vary from batch to batch and car to car. However, Tony does run hotter, harder, longer which may explain his particular view point, most of us run hot as a result of lack of air flow in traffic, so low revs and stationary. Heat sink and THEN the fan cuts in. Best to hit the manual switch as soon as you see the tail lights!!

 

Have retained old pump as spare (it was fine) but did notice that the depth of the blades are greater on the Racetoration unit, the 'standard (repro) item' only reached half way into the cavity whilst the Racetorations unit was nearly full depth moving 90% of the water stream Vs 50%

 

As Laurence says, you pays your money and takes your choice............and (unlike me ) don't fix it if it isn't broken

Edited March 28, 2012 by North London Mike

[Guest ntc]

Yep fit and forget Racetorations do not half cock up on that part it works well

Edited March 28, 2012 by ntc