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Hi Ian,

 

I have do this many times with a shortened lever from a saloon, most people are happy with this but I prefer the original location because the lever switch are a little slower to apply.

Succes,

Rien

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I have a saloon gear stick complete with OD switch if you are interested. I just bought a standard stick from TRGB for £15. Shame we didn't connect earlier! You can have it for the postage. The switch itself was new last year. The knob is a little tatty (the chrome trim), and because it is missing a chrome lock nut underneath ( unlike the saloon stick, it fits over the threaded part of the stick and is secured by an inner lock nut and the bottom chrome lock nut. Mine has a simple nut (no chrome). Ps. Mine is an A type too.

 

PPS: I don't see why the lever switch should be or could be any slower. Its just a switch an on/off switch connected to the wiring. I certainly had no problems. Switched in and out beautifully.

Edited by Quentin
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Hell Ian,

No the switch are not slower, the handling! becouse with the original you can change the position of the gear lever and the switch on the same time, on the lever you slide sometimes over the switch without moving them.

The wiring tru the lever are not as reliable as the original because all the movement they make when change the gear.

The position and the lengt of the saloon lever are not correct without shorten and turn the both parts before welding.

Good luck,

Rien

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Hey Ian That sounds like a great idea, that would leave the overdrive switch on the column spare to do the main/dip beam instead of getting ones foot caught under the clutch pedal.

 

Quinten, if Ian doesn't take up your kind offer could I?? Andy

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Hi Quentin - no dramas i'm sure another one will come up in due course. Thanks for the reply. Andy

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Hi Ian,

 

My 6 had no overdrive when I bought it. I acquired an uprated J-type box complete with overdrive and after a lot of thought and because of the difficulty in threading a cable down the steering column, I went for the switch in the gear lever knob. I had several issues with failures due to wiring but eventually solved that problem. However, the failure rate of the switches, which had a life of between one month and thirteen months, drove me to refit the standard gear lever and fit a steering column switch. (I carefully routed the cable under the steering column and it cannot be seen unless you crawl underneath it).

 

Jim

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I had several issues with failures due to wiring but eventually solved that problem. However, the failure rate of the switches, which had a life of between one month and thirteen months, drove me to refit the standard gear lever and fit a steering column switch.

 

 

Yes, agree with those comments. If you do go down this road make sure the wiring is very well insulated to avoid random o/d switching. The slider switches are rubbish and break/malfunction easily. Mine is still in-situ, but no longer working as I'm using a momentary switch and logic device which is massively better.

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I realise these things are a matter of personal preference but I've got both [not in the same car :rolleyes:] and I much prefer the column switch, if you decide to use a gearstick switch make sure it has a separate inline fuse. As to the reliability of the gearstick switch I've only had to replace it once in the last 16 years, whereas I gave up after 2 unreliable repro column switches and made one by modifying a modern switch.

RonA

Edited by RonA
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The slider switches are rubbish and break/malfunction easily. Mine is still in-situ, but no longer working as I'm using a momentary switch and logic device which is massively better.

 

I have the same with a momentary switch adapted into place of the slide switch and the logic box. Wouldnt go back to anything else now.

Stuart.

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