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About Quentin

  • Birthday 09/08/1964

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  • Location
    Nailsea, North Somerset
  1. Neil Ferguson reconditioned mine. Great job too. Quentin
  2. Quentin

    MU query

    I'm with Neil. My Mu was reconditioned by Neil Ferguson but for a CR (bearing in mind my engine was a saloon). I then found my CAM was actually CP so replaced the throttle bodies with reconditioned CP ones also from Neil. All was not really quite right. On Alec Pringle's recommendation I went to a rolling road in Gillingham, old chap called Peter (can't remember the rest but Alec could help). He certainly knows the Lucas MU. He replaced the springs and adjusted the mixture. What an improvement! The key I think is a rolling road AND someone who knows the MU. Bearing in mind (as was pointed out to me at the time) after 40 years and various wear and tear, actual specification is probably only a starting point. Anyway, that was about 3 summers ago and it's been lovely ever since. (all other usual niggles aside!) Quentin
  3. Quentin

    PC's PI set up

    I must have tried to balance my butterflies more than times in the first two years of ownership using a flow gauges, best guess etc. In the end I used the cigarette paper approach. Set them all up to just gently close onto the papers then locked them off. Bingo! The result was a vast improvement. That was 2 years ago and I haven't adjusted them since. A strong vote from me for this approach. Quentin
  4. Quentin

    Coil replacement

    Change the last part first. It's always the last one for me
  5. Well now I am just confused, because he was quite clear about the 100psi. I pressed him on it as I had always understood it should be nearer 110. Whatever, it's a noisy thing and I will try it.
  6. While at Malvern this year Bill (Badshead) and I were talking to Malcom (Prestige). I was asking him why, considering I have his full set up including PRV, my pump also squalls away a lot. Especially when warmer. (Note: mine is installed exactly like Andrew's). His answer was to back off the fuel pressure to 100 psi as that is the optimum for this Bosch pump set up on a TR6. Last time I had it checked I think it was nearer 110psi (which I had thought was correct). I haven't had a chance to adjust this yet (not having a ready fuel pressure gauge) but clearly this would relieve an awful lot of work from the pump so seems worth a go. Q
  7. Quentin

    Running On

    Fuel for me. Regular unleaded = run on for me. Need to retard. Shell v power = no run on. Cheers Quentin
  8. John I bought one that Johnny made. Looks like the one in his photo. It was really great. Its not on the car now as I have reverted to steering column location. You will need a logic controller for it because it is a momentary switch unlike the Stag affair. You need a dimmer for the blue LED though. I never fitted one and at night it was like a laser! Can't remember what I paid for it. If you would like it give me a shout but I am about to go on holiday for a couple of weeks. Then Malvern? Cheers Quentin
  9. Uh oh. Chris was looking for expert advice. Anyone who has seen, or had the courtesy to answer, some of my dumb questions in the past would be amused methinks! I only dared make a suggestion because it is easy and easily reversable...and worked for me. On which basis I would say why not? Real experts can probably advise whether you should try other things first. There have been other posts about adjusting mixture, quite recently i think. I just can't remember who by and when. Quentin. Found it: It was this post http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/36188-pi-mu-not-always-a-bad-thing-to-adjust/
  10. Try this 5 minute job On top of the MU there is a black plastic cap held on by two screws. Remove these and lift off the cap. There is a stack of three adjustment screws each with a locknut, There is no black art associated with this. Carefully mark the position of everything with a permanent marker - drawing a single straight line down all. Then you can always return it to the starting position position afterward. Unlock the bottom one (A1 in the Lucas manual I can email you if you want). A tap with a carefully placed screwdriver and hammer will do fine. This allows all three to be rotated as a single unit (don't unlock the other ones). Rotate anti-clockwise a half turn. Tighten the lock nut and refit the plastic cover. Makes sure the screws are fully seated again as you will lose vacuum otherwise. You have now leaned the mixture across the whole range. It was Neil Ferguson who first told me to do this, though in my case I needed to richen it up to compensate for hesitation going from idle. In my case, although my car is a CP I thought (wrongly) it might have a CR cam) Would you like the Lucas Manual? If so, PM me. It is really easy to adjust the mixture this way. You will notice the difference when you get it right. By the way, have you checked vacuum? Cheers Quentin
  11. Zebedee it is then. An old spring strapped to one foot and a new one to the other then see which way I boing.
  12. I reckon you're right John. Not least as I expect the old springs may be a bit shagged. In which case the formula is irrelevant though I did anticipate that the calculation would be be more straightforward. I do take the point however that unless my measurements are spot on its a waste of time.
  13. Ok. I will play with that thanks. I understood that for ground flat ends you subtract 2 coils.
  14. I didn't use the mean diameter because the formula calls for the outer diameter. I have been playing with the formula and even if I was 0.2mm wrong on the wire thickness I can't get near 350 lbs/inch. must be doing something wrong but can't work out what.
  15. Hmm ok. That suggests that much of what I have been thinking is bo@#*ks and Suggests my measurements may not have been accurate enough. It was not a micrometer but it was a caliper thingy. I measured an 11mm wire thickness and used an outer maximum diameter of 99mm. 7 active coils and free length of 290mm.
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