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TR-2 Engine Woes


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Now, back to the crank - solder and a couple of 2BA screws I think

Roger

 

 

Roger - the crank is very hard to drill and tap.

Recommend a couple of self-tappers - same

as your hip replacement!

 

AlanR

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Roger - the crank is very hard to drill and tap.

Recommend a couple of self-tappers - same

as your hip replacement!

 

AlanR

 

 

Self tappers just aint goin to work on the crank. If ya gona do it proprley Proply correctly then ya gonna need Araldite. As my dear old dad used to love to say " They glue aeroplanes together with it !!!!"

 

Alan

Edited by Kiwifrog
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  • 3 weeks later...

So, to follow through on this thread - the block is toast. The "edm", or spark erosion method would have likely worked. However, the projected cost of the edm process, as well as the cost of cleaning out the byproduct of the edm process, and then specialist welding tactics for the multiple cracks on the stud boss (and possibly elsewhere on the block), basically brought me to my knees. Plus no guaranty there are not other structural problems. So it is a bloody shame, but now its on to the spare block. I will keep my original block as a relic to stay together with the car. So much for my bragging about numbers matching originality! Suggestions for the old block are welcome - so far I have considered adding a glass top for a table, some dirt for a planter, or a stout doorstop.

 

Dan

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