fox889 Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Yet another question for you '6' guru's! Had a 'click' underneath that resembled a universal joint being worn, so up on the ramp she went........& no it wasn't a u/j! Seems to be the normal problem of the n/s/f diff mount has cracked therefore making the diff jump around a bit. I've looked into the various threads & it seems this is a) fairly common & most seem to 'box in' the tunnel piece after welding the crack first. Unless of course someone out there has manufactured a 'repair plate'? I think 4 new mounting rubbers would be a good idea while the diff is out, anything else I should look at replacing guys? Thanks in anticipation. Nick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Hi Nick, when you say 'cracked', what has actually cracked. Quite often one or more of the vertical pins break away from the bridge at its weld. The sheet metal of the bridge can also crack. I've had the diff front mounting plate crack on my 4A . Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fox889 Posted October 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Hi Nick, when you say 'cracked', what has actually cracked. Quite often one or more of the vertical pins break away from the bridge at its weld. The sheet metal of the bridge can also crack. I've had the diff front mounting plate crack on my 4A . Roger It looks like a crack right where the pin goes through the bridge itself. A little difficult to actually see what's what with the diff in the way. After I initially put this thread on here, I found that Rimmer Bros & Moss do a 'kit' but think I quite fancy the idea of 'bridging' the mount myself rather than just weld in a kit. Nick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Hi Nick, CTM will do you a bulletproof kit that's totally proven and for a reasonable price. Reasonable enough to make it not worthwhile reinventing an inferior wheel, or so I'd reckon. I'd also fit poly mounts rather than rubber, Superpro or Superflex and not any of the alternatives. Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Hi Nick, when you say 'cracked', what has actually cracked. Quite often one or more of the vertical pins break away from the bridge at its weld. The sheet metal of the bridge can also crack. I've had the diff front mounting plate crack on my 4A . Roger That pressed steel diff hanger that bolts around the nose of the diff fractured on my 6 too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 Can the strengtheners be welded on from under the car (with the body on). My diff is off being done at the mo so wondering if this is worthwhile and doable. (no cracks (yet) ) that I can see so its a preventative action Regards Robin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 They can but not as effective as fitting a large 3mm steel plate across the top of the bridge seam welded around the outside and around the head of the pin to more effectively spread the load. Unfortunately this can really only be done with the body off. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 Stuart, thanks for that. Think I'll leave well alone then as I'm not up for another BOC having just finished the last one, ta Regards Robin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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