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4A handbrake


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With the help of Google I've been reading all the good advice that has been offered, over time, by you blokes, on getting the 4A handbrake to actually do something useful.

 

At the moment I'm working my way up (with the adjusters) to where I get high C when I twang the cable, but so far I still roll back down the slope on the drive.

Soon the only options will be making up longer levers or only parking on the flat. However might try carrying a brick in the boot for a while.

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Hi Peter/LJ,

the lever extenders (on the back plate) will give an extra 25-30% leverage and help a great deal.

If you want to go that final touch then reposition the cable attachment hole on the handbrake lever itself. This goes between the existing cable attachment hole and the pivot.

This will give you an extra 100% leverage and you will then be able to park vertically up brick walls - and it is a free mod.

 

Roger

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Hello, the ebay extenders work well, I have a pair fitted and other than being a satisfied customer, no other connection, they are easy to fit and effective, I did read a thread where there was concern they were made of aluminium, I have no concern as some lifeboats are made of aluminium and the sea can be a very tough taskmaster! If you wanted to save a bit of cash there is an article in Roger Williams book 'How to improve your TR4A', although you need to be able to weld, good luck,

 

Andrew

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I have tried the extenders from Roger William's book and although they did make a difference it is not enough for me to hold the car on the handbrake on the junction on Pheasant Hill when leaving my village

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Had exactly the same problem, with the fly-off, slight incline at traffic lights and back she'd go! I solved the problem by fitting a TR6 lever and rachet (straight swap for original) and made sure the 'cradle' securing the cables to the lever was absolutely in balance for each wheel. Also made sure brake adjusters were nice and tight. Now holds the car adequately 90% of the time.

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Hi Peter/LJ,

the lever extenders (on the back plate) will give an extra 25-30% leverage and help a great deal.

If you want to go that final touch then reposition the cable attachment hole on the handbrake lever itself. This goes between the existing cable attachment hole and the pivot.

This will give you an extra 100% leverage and you will then be able to park vertically up brick walls - and it is a free mod.

 

Roger

 

Thanks Roger,

will have a go at it tomorrow.

Thanks to everyone else for the suggestions, will keep them up my sleeve.

The brick will be the fallback option.

Edited by littlejim
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If you extend the levers at the drum end (as the RW book or using the Tony Hart extenders idea) and relocate the pivot at the handbrake end as Roger H sets out you will improve the situation no end. I think 20% efficiency is achieveable which is well beyond MOT standards and better than most modern cars.

 

Beyond that its a question of what you do to the drums and the shoe material, so if you want to remain 'original' the the two mods discussed are about all you can do, which is enough unless you want to spin around cones etc. at which point its a different ball game entirely.

 

Regards Tony

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