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Hi

 

Yesterday TR6's nightmare come to reality, could'nt stop in time on a highway and .......

 

No personal injury, exept for pride :(, and let´s look it this way , it´s a fine oportunity to have the front up to date, and as whinter is approoching :rolleyes:

 

SUV's bumper, just got me above, :o my bumper, like a basebol (cricket) bat smashing everything bettween. :wacko:

There is no apparent structural damage , but i need to check: any clues where to look ? actual reference measuring points? doors gaps are ok no diference

 

Also at firts glance I'll need, hood, front valence/wings,headlamps,grille ass.,side flashers, radiators(main and oil).

Metal sheet is not beind repair, but have to balance costs

Looking for advice on usual best deals, transport cost, is a issue!

 

I'm starting to work on it, it will be for next months to come

 

 

And, Members, sizing the brakes on a dry surface is very easy with those goodear 165 HR5,

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Sorry to see that - hope you get it repaired soon to your satisfaction. Like you say, good oportunity to tidy up front end but there didn't appear to be a lot wrong with it before.

 

Interesting point about the tyres - perhaps 165's don't cut it in todays traffic.

 

Can happen to any one of us - best of luck

 

Mike

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Ouch ineed, it should not be a concern repairing your car, all i will say is try and use Stanpart panels where available even if it delays the rebuild/repair.

 

New Non OE parts fit like a dogs back leg, old second hand Truimph parts are just that however the quality fit and lines will be better!

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Commiserations. Been there - almost - several times when 6 was daily driver on narrow tyres, in wet.

 

Cadence braking can help:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadence_braking

Its human ABS.

No finesse: as soon as the front tyres slide, bang up and down on the pedal as hard and fast as you can. Practise it, as releasing the brakes when an obstacle looms is not intuitive.

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Nightmare, and a nice car... could happen so easily.

 

When you get the panels off, look for distortion and creases in the tub.

 

I believe there is optimal sequence for refitting the panels. Stuart will know... I'd start with the bonnet/hood and work outward.

Ironic that the bumper looks OK.

 

Ivor

Edited by 88V8
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Hi Felow members

 

Thanks for support, These are the times when you need it :)

 

Peter, the tecnique is well known, but failure to apply it, is common as in my case, and the road was slippery with intense hot weather traffic :wacko:

I think the issue was the tyres, 165 goodyear, old :o

ASAP I'll practice the tecnique ;) Thankyou for the link

 

88v8, working from the screen to the front is good advice.

Had a look at the BB for measurements, but it's only for the chassi, when out on a jig, wich I think will not be necessary .

I realy need some simple measuring points.

Ironic it is, said Yoda, the front bumper is untouch :blink:

 

Second hand panels are better option ?

 

Thankyou

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Check the date code on your tyres. The difference between a 3 year old tyre and a 13 year old tyre is the difference at 100kms/hr between 50m and 70m stopping distance . . . . .

 

You will need to check the measurements for the front turrets before anything else, and check the front wheel tracking. The likelihood is that you will have damaged the suspension alignment.

 

Body panels cannot be insured on carriers, it's at your own risk - probably better to first find your panels then drive to collect, even if that means a holiday in England !

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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Thanks Alec

 

Actually I'll be in London early November, but don't think low cost can carry them :rolleyes:

Meant time (MTBF) I'm cheking for measurements folowing your advice.

Tyres ? I'll replace them with new ones for my dayly drive and keep the Ho..old ones for concours :ph34r:

165 or 185 ? make? advice ? we don't get snow or rain everyday :D

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