Scott D Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 Hi all, just a bit of advice if anyone can help? My TR5 doesnt appear to have the best of electrics since I bought it, and maybe its getting a little bit worse? Main problems are: 1. Lights go dim on idle - but pick up again if your rev the engine slightly 2. No heating - heater fan doesnt work and in any case there is no hot air flowing to the cabin? 3. Rear side lights - one is bright, the other is dim 4. Dashboard lighting - non existent? Do I need a new alternator (I am yet to check the voltage with a multimeter, as the car is not at home at the moment, but this is first on my list)...or do I need some professional garage assistance? I have uprated halogen lights, and electric fan (plus the old fan left on), electronic ignition....but notthing else - and no heater, as I mentioned! If it is a new alternator....easy job? Im a bit of a novice sorry!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 I would personnaly start by checking and cleaning all the earths Cheers Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 Scott Use the Multimeter first. 1.Do you mean the headlights go dim or is it the sidelights as well. Could be the battery not holding it's charge...how old is it, do you know ? 2.Fan..is the wiring connected ? Check power supply wire to the heater from the heater switch. Dirty bullet connector ? Earths on the switch and the heater OK? If the heater is hot then the fan should shift heat into the cabin.Are the small heater hoses hot to the touch, once the engine is warm ? 3.Sounds like a poor earth connection check the "poor" side first 4.Dash lights...check through supply, red wire supplying, then it goes to red/white I believe ( check the wiring diagram for your 5 ).It's very unlikely that all the bulbs have gone together.No ..loose/ not connected... wire ? Check what voltage the dynamo is supplying at fast idle, you should be getting 14.5 / 15 volts ? If Battery condition is not good or the charging system is struggling then shortcommings will be identified.Eliminate them first before you think about an alternator.You will need a narrow belt conversion to turn an Alternator pulley,an uprated ammeter to accomodate the extra amps pumping out.I am assuming that the wiring still looks to be in a reasonable state ? Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 Hi Scott, make yourself known at your local TR Reg meetings. These people will understand the problems and probably sort you out in the pub carpark. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scott D Posted August 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 Thanks all for the advice...I will be making a start this weekend when I get to the car! Doesnt help with the car being in Cheshire & me being in Birmingham! Im desperate to take my car to a local meet....may have to be October!!!! Will update on progress after the weekend Thanks again!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
openroad Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 you should have heat trickling in without blower working,maybe the heater hose is blocked,mine was.....i screwed out the heater regulator,undid the hose first,it was blocked with old antifreeze etc...especially if it has been unused for a while....any way heater works great now....good luck. conrad. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Davidw Posted September 5, 2011 Report Share Posted September 5, 2011 I don't want to sound facetious or patronising, but is the scuttle flap open..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scott D Posted September 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 Update: Hving tested a few things with the multimeter: A reading of 12.57V without the engine running, but only 13.3V with the engine running - I will therefore replace the alternator brushes as a next step & see if that helps Somehow, the lights (main & side lights) no longer go dim on tick over - in fact, they are extremeny bright. Obviously Im very pleased, but this was only achieved by messing with a few wires. Theres obviously a dodgy connection somewhere and next step is to chase it down! Dashboard lights are working - but very dim, so will investigate further Found the cabling for the heater fan, but need to take off the dashboard to check the earthing? Is this right? Heater hoses get warm to the touch when the engine is running, just a case of checking for blockages and a general overhaul of the whole system. Also, dismantles the windscreen washer motor to find a mising brush. Dont seen to be able to locate a replacement brush or original motor, so bought a replacement version from Moss - will fit this next weekend and see what happens! Thanks again for all the advice - will post an update next week! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 If your lights are now bright then it is probably earth fault. Check all of them especially the one down the front on the inner edge of the front panel and the one next to the battery on the panel. Panel lights dim is usually the fault of the rheostat in the centre of the dash, try bypassing it The earth for the heater is usually bolted to one of the mounting bolts on the back of the plenum where the blower motor sits. For the heater check that the valve is opening fully. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 (edited) Deleted Edited September 6, 2011 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scott D Posted October 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 Hi all, finally I have everything working apart from.... Heater Fan - still wont work! I have checked the wiring on the switch as best I can, but difficult to see where everything disappears to when it enters the heater box. Can anyone tell me where the heater fan motor is actually situated & do I need to take the dashboard off to get at it? Any help at all relating to the heater motor & general system would be much appreciated...getting very frustrated! Radio - got it all wired up, got a signal & sound to the single rear speaker...but massive interference when the engine is running...probably a simple one, but I'm a bit of a novice? Thanks for your help! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 The fan sits on top of the heater unit behind the centre instruments and should have 3 wires going to it. One is earth and the others provide the 2 speeds for it. Try running a separate feed from a battery to it to test. Radio interference can be stopped with some suppressors available from RS Components or a good car radio shop. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scott D Posted October 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 Thanks Stuart! Sorry to sound a bit slow but....should it be visible by looking underneath the dash, or do I need to remove the dash? I can see wires from the switch x3 (& all colour coded as per the wiring diagram) but they just seem to disappear in to the heater box...is this right & should I be looking inside the box by taking off the dash? Sorry to sound a bit stupid, but I can't find any info in the workshop manual! Very annoying! Thanks again! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 They do just disappear into the box but you should be able to test it first via the wires before having to get in there. The only real way to get the motor out is by taking the dash off. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scott D Posted October 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 Ok thanks, will give it a try & report back Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scott D Posted November 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2011 Hi all, No time to trace the heater fan issue yet but... Driving on sat night, headlamps and dash lights were flickering...not on and off, just flickering dim! Also, ammeter jumps wildly from time to time & if the lights are on I need to increase revs from idle to get the indicators to actually flash... Time for a new alternator???? Hep Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
smizgals Posted November 23, 2011 Report Share Posted November 23, 2011 Hi all, No time to trace the heater fan issue yet but... Driving on sat night, headlamps and dash lights were flickering...not on and off, just flickering dim! Also, ammeter jumps wildly from time to time & if the lights are on I need to increase revs from idle to get the indicators to actually flash... Time for a new alternator???? Hep Thanks Might be a faulty alternator regulator. See http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=32058 . Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scott D Posted November 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 Thanks...will look at it! If I do go for an alternator, any advice? I was thinking of a Revington TR 65amp output...do I need to change the pulley wheel etc? I think the unit has a built in regulator Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tthomson Posted November 27, 2011 Report Share Posted November 27, 2011 Hi Scott, If the alternator has failed, it is fairly easy to test it with a multimeter, but based on what I have read above, I think you are looking at a faulty connection. It could be anywhere in the electrical system, but if it is mainly affecting the lighting systems then I would be inclined to look there. By far the most likely fault will be an earthing fault (corrosion on any of the bullets, or between the earthing points and the metal work. etc.) Another likely place for such problems is the fuse unit. Try rattling the fuses while the lights are on to see if this is a problem. Grubby connectors on the fuse unit, or anywhere in the Brown & White or Blue wires could be involved. These are normally far less expensive to replace than an alternator. Unless you are intending to use a lot of electrical power (6 or more spot lamps etc) then 65 Amps seems unnecessary. A 35 Amp alternator (ACR18 or equivalent) should be perfectly adequate, but a 65Amp unit should certainly work fine. Alternators are not particularly efficient devices and if you are drawing 60+ amps at 14 volts you can expect the alternator to be generating 750+ Watts electrical power and a similar amount of heat That is 1500 Watt (more than 2 HP) drain on the engine and equivalent to a 750 Watt electric heater under your bonnet. That is a lot of heat to get rid of. Whatever you decide - Good luck. TT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
smizgals Posted November 28, 2011 Report Share Posted November 28, 2011 (edited) An 18ACR is usually rated at 43 to 45 Amps, depending on suppliers description. And there are many offered as outright sales, for example here: http://trparts.trgb....amo-alternator/ . On ebay too of course with higher rated new direct replacements, eg.: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4cfb710447 . See also http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=32193&pid=238223&st=20&&do=findComment&comment=238223. Stan Edited November 28, 2011 by smizgals Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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