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tr6 tyre sizes & rear susp mod


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Hi

 

Can anyone tell me what size tyre i can up to on my 73 tr6 on standard dish wheel rims please.

 

I,m hoping that i can fit 205/60/15? but i also want to fit a rear shock modification, the single bracket type from rimmer bros that bolts where the existing lever type bolted on with one small bolt fixing at the top.

 

Will i be able to use these bigger tyres on this type of bracket? or do i buy a different type modification?

i appriciate any help

 

thanks

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Hi

 

Can anyone tell me what size tyre i can up to on my 73 tr6 on standard dish wheel rims please.

 

I,m hoping that i can fit 205/60/15? but i also want to fit a rear shock modification, the single bracket type from rimmer bros that bolts where the existing lever type bolted on with one small bolt fixing at the top.

 

Will i be able to use these bigger tyres on this type of bracket? or do i buy a different type modification?

i appriciate any help

 

thanks

 

Stick with 195s, 205s Foul on the Top Corner of the Suspension Brackets sometimes if the Camber is not set right,after you fit Brackets and Tyres take for a Good Test Drive with plenty of Bumps,on return remove Rear Wheels and check for Scuffing on Top Corner of Brackets,you may need to Dress the Weld and Top Corners with a Grinding Disc or Flapping Wheel.

Edited by TR NIALL
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Stick with 195s, 205s Foul on the Top Corner of the Suspension Brackets sometimes if the Camber is not set right,after you fit Brackets and Tyres take for a Good Test Drive with plenty of Bumps,on return remove Rear Wheels and check for Scuffing on Top Corner of Brackets,you may need to Dress the Weld and Top Corners with a Grinding Disc or Flapping Wheel.

 

 

I like a wide tyre but 205 is a step too far on 5.5 inch rims.

 

Regarding clearance issues, you could do what Niall suggests and probably should anyway but as a first test, what I did was to assemble everything without the spring in place (still on axle stands), refit the wheel and then jack up under the trailing arm, spinning the wheel at the same time.

 

One word of warning. Test needs to be done on both sides due to potential body allignment issues. Half an inch here or there can make a big difference.

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I use 205s on standard rims but with inner tubes. With some lowering, slight negative camber and parallel toe there is no fouling - but the spring rate is very high so little suspension movement to cause it.

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Hi all

 

i really appriciate all your inputs and take on board what you are all saying.

 

i am fitting up rated coil springs of 420lbs so im hoping any fouling over bumps won't happen.

 

i want to hill climb the car next year as well as use it on the road so i need to come to a happy medium.

 

i suppose i will have to start fitting some kind of adusting brackets if i'm to alter the cambers front and

rear as well?

 

by the way are the peter are your 205s a 60 or 65 profile?

 

thanks to all.

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Hi all

 

i really appriciate all your inputs and take on board what you are all saying.

 

i am fitting up rated coil springs of 420lbs so im hoping any fouling over bumps won't happen.

 

i want to hill climb the car next year as well as use it on the road so i need to come to a happy medium.

 

i suppose i will have to start fitting some kind of adusting brackets if i'm to alter the cambers front and

rear as well?

 

by the way are the peter are your 205s a 60 or 65 profile?

 

thanks to all.

 

Mine are around 420, but are too hard for modern pot-holed roads! Very good on smooth surface but can tend to launch the rear on a bump in curve (eg outside of Orchard at Prescott). Might be better to use stiffer anti-roll bars f and r to reduce that. Ground clearance lowered to 4.5 inches - so Berlin cushions and sleeping policemen can be a bit of a scrape.

Solid rack mounts make a big difference to steering. On wishbone bushes I have nylatron/stainless at front together with Silentbloc on rear trailing arms - but rough roads show up the total lack of compliance. With 205s (65) braking is transformed - car is near-standard weight. On corners the sidewall movement can be felt through the seat on turn-in but is then predictable. But I plan wider rims one day...

I set front and rear toes parallel ( because of those solid bushes) using bog standard shims. 2.5 deg neg camber on front and 1deg neg (IIRC!) rear.

Trailering the TR to hillclimbs is one of the most effective mods. If like me you prefer to enjoy the drive there and back - driving 4miles in the TR in a weekend is not enough for me!- the thought of 'How do I get home if I bend it?' will always ensure uncompetitive times.

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205s are too wide for 5.5" rims. The sidewalls will be distorted and give poor turn-in and handling.

195s, or wider rims.

Tyre choice (compound) will have far more effect on ultimate grip than just buying wide tyres.

 

Ivor

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205s are too wide for 5.5" rims. The sidewalls will be distorted and give poor turn-in and handling.

195s, or wider rims.

Tyre choice (compound) will have far more effect on ultimate grip than just buying wide tyres.

 

Ivor

 

We'll see at Harewood what 205s can do on steel rims. (I should have kept quiet about the supension mods)

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I have the impression that the old fashion rim/tyre size theory is in some way not working anymore with modern tyres.

If you look at today's cars you will notice that most cars have very, very wide tyres on normal rims. The lay-out of the cross section of the tyres seem to have changed in late years ;)

My last Espace had from factory 225 tyres on 6 1/2 inch rims, and some cars even have 245 tyres on the same rims. So something must have happened :blink:

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