Clutch Drag

[PaulR]

Hi All

Just started having difficulty in getting CT24209 ito gear, especially reverse. No obvious leaks from slave or master both of which had new seals about 2 years ago. Adjusting the threaded shaft between slave & operating shaft arm mearly pushes the piston back into the slave. With both rear wheels off the ground the wheels rotate in all gears with the clutch fully depressed (especially reverse). It is possible to stop the wheels turning by gripping it by hand with the clutch depressed. It feels as though the operating shaft arm needs pushing further than the slave will allow. I have had the gearbox out over last winter but it has been fine from March to now.

All thoughts very welcome.

[randall977]

I've fitted a TR6 master cylinder operating rod while my new clutch 'beds in'. I think mine did the same as yours due to some slack in the pedle assembly (even though I rebuilt the whole lot). As the clutch plate wears I will put the original rod back in.

[littlejim]

Same problem with my new clutch plate.

I used top hole on the clutch lever and, with the back of the car on stands, screwed the clutch rod out until I had the disengagement I wanted.*

The rod thread end is well inside the threaded hole in the thingo at the end of the rod.

I think the nice clutch plate mans is giving us a few extra thou for free.

 

* of course the LJ technique was to replace every part in the clutch hydraulic system first, before doing the above.

[johnny250]

It's no problem to fit spacers and different cylinders if required to get the travel that you need. I have a 1" diameter slave cylinder and about 1" alloy spacers fitted to the mounts. Of course if it's something that has just happened then there is the possibility of a broken fork pin or 'something'

 

john

[Chris Hubball]

I had a similar problem some years ago turned out to be the screwed taper pin holding the clutch operating fork to the cross shaft had sheared preventing full disengagement of the clutch.Gearbox out I am affraid try to find a replacement in stainless steel.

 

Cheers Chris Hubball.

[PaulR]

Have tried all sorts of spacers, different lever arm holes, removed any slack from pedal box to master fork joint and still no joy, so Chris's suggestion is sounding more and more likely, ughhhhhhhhhhh

Will report back once gbox out

Paul

[PaulR]

Well !!

GBox out

Indeed taper pin was broken

So, replaced pin(also front seal for good measure) and reinstated Gbox

Guess What, No change AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

So, moved slave cylinder to rear side holding bracket, extended push rod as far as it would go, still plenty of thread left just no play to take up

Now very perplexed, what the F*** is going on

To recap, with clutch pedal fully depressed still can't get into gear easily and if I do then with rear wheels jacked both are turning with clutch pedal depreesed

In moving slave I had to detach the hydraulic supply and lost a bit of fluid, still adequate level in the master supply but I accept bleeding needs to be done, but any movemnet on the pedal is reflected in the slave pushrod so I can't imagine any great gain

What to do next, I really don't want to take the Gbox out again.

All help gratefully received

Paul

[PaulR]

I'm back and I've calmed down now

I'm happy that the hydraulic side of things is working fine so that only leaves the clutch itself.

Moss advertise a kit comprising cover, plate and bearing for £153 which doesn't sound too bad.

Does anyone have any experience of these parts?

Also this will be my first venture into the land of clutches, is there any help or info that can be offered before I take the gearbox out again.

Thanks in advance

Paul

[LGFromage]

I'm back and I've calmed down now

I'm happy that the hydraulic side of things is working fine so that only leaves the clutch itself.

Moss advertise a kit comprising cover, plate and bearing for £153 which doesn't sound too bad.

Does anyone have any experience of these parts?

Also this will be my first venture into the land of clutches, is there any help or info that can be offered before I take the gearbox out again.

Thanks in advance

Paul

 

Having suffered at the hands of Quinton Hazell I would recommend any other make - especially for clutches.

Tim

[PaulR]

Final installment

Gbox out again (it does seem to take less time the more you do it!)

One of the three release levers on the clutch cover is not as proud as the others and with the clutch removed a small piece of metal that on the parts diagrams is referred to as a release lever strut falls out. I don't know how important this is but it matters not as I'm off to get a reconditioned clutch

Any sources for such a thing would be gratefully recvd

Paul

[jerrytr5]

I'm off to get a reconditioned clutch

 

Don't get one from your local motor factors - use one of the TR specialists (Revington, TRBitz, etc).

While the box is out again, cross drill and pin the release fork to the shaft and replace the shaft bearings (some people double up the bearings). You must remove all possible sources of play/wear throughout the clutch system.

Jerry.

[PaulR]

Thanks Jerry