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TR3 - 'A' post repairs - captive nuts


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Just wondering if I can get to the back of the A posts to repair the captive nuts into which the hinge bolts fit?

Some of the bolts are spinning - if I remove the front wings, will I be able to get to the captive nut cages?

 

Thanks,

 

Brian

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Just wondering if I can get to the back of the A posts to repair the captive nuts into which the hinge bolts fit?

Some of the bolts are spinning - if I remove the front wings, will I be able to get to the captive nut cages?

 

Thanks,

 

Brian

 

 

The short answer is yes but they are behind the flange that holds the wing bolts. That flange is part of the a post and doesn't allow much room to work behind. You can bend it out to some extent. but you'll you'll still need a good spot weld cutter and a delicate grinder. Tom

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Thanks Tom,

 

I just didn't want to go to the trouble of taking off a wing only to find that I didn't have any access without removing something else. I'm hoping to find only expanded cages that I can push back, but that's probably very wishful thinking after 54 years!!

 

Brian.

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Thanks Tom,

 

I just didn't want to go to the trouble of taking off a wing only to find that I didn't have any access without removing something else. I'm hoping to find only expanded cages that I can push back, but that's probably very wishful thinking after 54 years!!

 

Brian.

 

Usual problem is the screws are slightly longer than they really need to be and so the bit of thread protruding beyond the captive goes rusty. So you manage to get the screw undone a bit and then the rusty part of the thread starts to come through the captive, promptly seizes and in turn the captive nut turns in the cage. Once you have the wing off then plenty of easing oil and a pair of mole grips to squeeze the cage back round the nut will do the trick or grind off the exposed portion of thread with a Dremel or similar and then they will come undone OK.

Stuart.

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Lots of captive nuts on the wing first. Follow Stuarts advice with the wing nuts before you start to undo them, make sure the exposed threads are spotless, or like me you will spend hours replacing the bloody things

 

Cheers

 

Alan

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When you put it back together, do so with stainless steel bolts of exactly the right length so that the next poor s-d has an easier time than you will!

 

I got mine from a Local fastener specialist for about 10p each so not expensive.

 

Best of luck

 

Ashley :rolleyes:

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Thanks everyone, I will certainly use stainless replacements.

 

I have already cornered the market in WD40 and plan to spend the summer squirting it onto all the nuts and bolts at least once a week. I have removed TR (and similarly appointed Morris Minor) wings in the past, but the last time was in 1975 and I didn't need to get at the A posts then!

 

ntc: If I had my way (i.e. had no spending machines in the form of wife and two daughters), I would have a stable including 4/5/6 ! (I sold excellent 4A in 1976 for £350.)

 

Brian

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Thanks everyone, I will certainly use stainless replacements.

 

I have already cornered the market in WD40 and plan to spend the summer squirting it onto all the nuts and bolts at least once a week. I have removed TR (and similarly appointed Morris Minor) wings in the past, but the last time was in 1975 and I didn't need to get at the A posts then!

 

ntc: If I had my way (i.e. had no spending machines in the form of wife and two daughters), I would have a stable including 4/5/6 ! (I sold excellent 4A in 1976 for £350.)

 

Brian

 

 

Brian

Tell me about it same here ;) misunderstanding :blink: while you are there change it to a captive plate, no more saggey door

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Brian

Tell me about it same here ;) misunderstanding :blink: while you are there change it to a captive plate, no more saggey door

 

 

Neil, how did you attach the plates to the back of the A-post such that it could move for adjustment but not fall off when all of the door screws were out ?

 

Stan

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