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Hicks51

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About Hicks51

  • Birthday 02/22/1951

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  • Location
    Crowthorne, Berkshire, UK

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  1. Hello Sue, Thanks for added note - this is turning into a 4A reunion family affair! I don't remember the details you mention, but I can fully appreciate why you preferred the TR4A to an A35 (my earliest recollection of any of my father's cars in the 50s was an A30). Surely a honeymoon in that would have been grounds for divorce!! I had recently sold an A40 Somerset and a TR2 before buying Roger's 4A. Memories........I'm sure the Polo generation doesn't get as nostalgic over today's Euroboxes! Brian
  2. Hi Roger, It sounds like I bought it off you after all! I assumed there was an owner in the middle because you said it was a wreck in your original post, but as you fitted the new wings and I lived in Wembley, it sounds like too much of a coincidence. I had forgotten what I paid for it, so thanks for the reminder that I made a small profit after a year!! A belated thank you, I really enjoyed the car, but preferred the low-cut doors of the sidescreens even then. Pity there is no record of it now, but consider the power of Google. I saw your post from 2007 when I entered only "
  3. Hi Roger, I'm afraid I don't know where this car is now, but I think it's possible I bought it off the person you sold it to, when I was living in Wembley. I bought a BRG 4A in the mid 70s and the reg ended 888C (but can't remember the leading letters). It had 4 new wings and was in good condition, but as I was really a sidescreen man, I sold it at the end of the hot summer of 1976 for £350. Probably worth about £16,000 today in the same condition. Perhaps this reply might reinvigorate the post! Brian
  4. Keith, Have you tried any of the proprietary radiator leak products available from Halfords? They have worked for me several times and one of them should do the job, especially as it seems to be only a minor leak. Brian
  5. Thanks to everyone above who contributed their advice on this topic at Christmas - either buy new or clean out old tank. In the end, I was overtaken by a terminal attack of seasonal laziness and ordered a new alloy tank from Andy Wiltshire (£350) and fitted it about 3 weeks ago. It really is a work of art and as others have commented, a shame to cover it up with trim panels! Andy called to make sure he got the measurements correct and all connections fitted without any problems - highly recommended. Brian
  6. Thank you all so much for your advice and knowledge. I have yet to remove the tank, so I'll "take a view" about what to do when I get it out of the car. I hope you all have a great Christmas and happy new year. Brian
  7. Hi Don, Thanks very much for a most comprehensive reply - I think I feel a Christmas task coming on! Regards and have a good Christmas. Brian
  8. I have a 1957 TR3 with a petrol tank that was probably last removed/looked at in 1989. It seems that petrol (unleaded plus lead-replacement additive) might be going off within about 4 or 5 months and is looking a bit cloudy and dark when I syphon it out. (It also doesn't take my eyebrows off when I light some of it in a container.) I'm planning to remove and try to clean the tank, but I don't know the best way of doing this - can anyone please advise? Alternatively, I might bite the bullet and buy a new tank from Moss or Rimmer. If I did this, is there any advantage in going for alu
  9. Thanks Vic and Ian, Your replies have confirmed my suspicion that the car is even more hybrid than I first thought! This is compounded by having a later distributor (rebuilt by Martin the DD), with a rubber connection to the vacuum unit. I'm sure I'll be able to make it air-tight somehow. Thanks again, Brian.
  10. Although it runs well, my TR3 (circa TS16764) is a bit of patchwork quilt under the bonnet, with components from various years, and I'm having difficulty establishing where the end of the advance-retard tube should terminate. Currently the copper tube has a threaded brass cap that screws onto a fitting that is tapped into the far left (battery) side of the high-port inlet manifold. The tube has an olive on the end but it doesn't feel as though it's being compressed when I tighten the fitting and the pipe wobbles about, so I assume it's letting in air. I have no idea what the engine numbe
  11. Stuart and Tom, thanks for the tips. I'll talk to Moss first because at over £58, I think it should work properly! Locking chokes for later cars only cost about £10 on eBay........... Thanks again, Brian.
  12. Thanks Don, you've confirmed what I thought should happen, but there are no teeth or any other mechanism for stopping the cable from returning. I will talk to Moss, as this was a new cable from them. Thanks, Brian
  13. I have fitted a new choke cable to my TR3 and my question is, should it lock in position if I twist it? It doesn't lock and I wondered if I have been supplied with a faulty one? It's a real pain to try to keep the car running when it's cold, particularly as the choke is very stiff to pull fully open, and it returns of its own accord. I have seen clothes pegs used to keep them open, but it's not an elegant solution! Thanks, Brian
  14. Hi, this week I bought another hi-torque starter off ebay, to replace the worn-out one that came with the car. Cambridge Motorsport are the suppliers and I spoke to a very helpful guy called Mike when I phoned to make sure I was ordering the correct one (9 or 10 teeth). I emailed him a close up photo of the one I was replacing and within 2 days I had a new motor that turns the engine over about 2 or 3 times faster than before - much quicker starting! Although you may not be buying a motor off them, you could ask for advice. I have a 1957 TR3 but don't know what engine is actually fitte
  15. Hi Farid, A high-torque starter was already fitted to my TR3 when I bought it 4 years ago and I have say it has been very good and has given me no problems at all. In the 1970's, when I had my TR2 and TR3A, I was always having to either remove and release the starter or hit it with a hammer! If you don't mind the non-original part, then I would say the £175 is worth it. (Just my view before I am beaten-up by purists!) Brian.
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