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Adjustable trailing arm brackets?


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That's it really

 

I'm about to have a bit of work done, including polybushes, and wondered if I should have adjustable brackets fitted??

 

Steve

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I'm biased because I have a set lined up to go on my 4A, so I'd say yes. Lots less f@rting around trying to get the camber right. Although if you're not changing much on yours, only a bush change, then maybe you could simply reassemble it all as it came off the car, same number of shims, same arrangement of the T/A brackets. If you have any doubts about whether the camber was right then go for the adjustables and keep the shims the same as they are to retain the tracking as it is.

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Yes.

Saves a lot of farting about. You actually have a chance of getting equal camber each side, and can change it if you want to experiment. The correct settings are in the BB, says he vaguely as it's in the garage and I'm not, section 65 rings a bell.

 

Ivor

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I too will chime in with a resounding yes. After screwing around with the notched brackets over a weekend trying to sort out a camber issue (turns out the chassis was not quite as BL had made it...), I plumped fro a set of adjustables. Camber took all of...oooooh, what, a couple of hours to adjust.

 

Whole job could have been done within an afternoon...though of course things are never that easy and I found one of the bolts was stuck fast in the trailing arm bushing. A touch of corrosion and a lot of dirt makes for a strong adhesive!

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That's it really

 

I'm about to have a bit of work done, including polybushes, and wondered if I should have adjustable brackets fitted??

 

Steve

 

 

A thumbs up from me also. I fitted them several years ago so I could adjust camber without messing with notches. The brackets do have a theoretical failure mode since the pivot bolt rides in the adjuster but if you use Richards bush kit, he supplies a variety of different thickness washers that accommodate the varying sizes in the TA's. This means you can tighten the pivot bolt without impeding the movement of the arm on the bushes. Once these are set up and torqued, all lateral movement is eliminated, the arm moves freely on the bushes and with the pivot bolts torqued up as well as held by the adjuster it is hard to imagine them moving before some other bit of the frame cries uncle.

 

Stan

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Opposite point of view, I wouldn't touch them with a barge pole and they will never be fitted to one of my cars! :lol:

 

 

Same here. There are some 30+ permutations possible with factory brackets and I've always been able to get close to the holy grail ( for me at least ) of 1 degree negative using them. It was good of Mr. Good to publish the factory offsets on his site which is nice for those who are inclined to stick with them. Using the current supply of springs and factoring the mfg discrepancies in the chassis it's likely that different brackets will be used from one side to the other to reach the goal. For some reason, the LHS was more positive than the RHS on both of mine initially <_<

 

The factory brackets are arguably stronger and due to their simplicity win the engineering " elegance " prize ;)

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