Ian Vincent Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Good morning all, Yesterday afternoon I started to dismantle the steering control head with the aim of cleaning it up and making it work properly. I had Clive Elsdon's excellent article in front of me and it quickly became clear that I was not the first to get into the workings of my control head - someone had been there before. As a result, I am not confident that I either have all the pieces or that those that I do have were in the right place. Also, although I took a steady stream of photos as I was proceeding, the last and most crucial showing the position of the various bits that make it work, hinged followers etc., is very dark, (I didn't allow the flash time to recharge). Does anyone have a sequence of photos of their control head that I can use to check mine against? And by the way, were there any differences between the models or did the control head stay the same throughout the sidescreen life? Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Good morning all, Yesterday afternoon I started to dismantle the steering control head with the aim of cleaning it up and making it work properly. I had Clive Elsdon's excellent article in front of me and it quickly became clear that I was not the first to get into the workings of my control head - someone had been there before. As a result, I am not confident that I either have all the pieces or that those that I do have were in the right place. Also, although I took a steady stream of photos as I was proceeding, the last and most crucial showing the position of the various bits that make it work, hinged followers etc., is very dark, (I didn't allow the flash time to recharge). Does anyone have a sequence of photos of their control head that I can use to check mine against? And by the way, were there any differences between the models or did the control head stay the same throughout the sidescreen life? Rgds Ian I think Menno may have a sequence of pictures that he took whilst doing his one. They may still be on here somewhere. The control heads are basically the same throughout the life on the TR range. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 I'll have a look at my pics later today when I'm at home. Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 No, I don't have 'm... All I have is this: Control head saga Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted January 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 (edited) Menno, Many thanks for looking and for providing the link to your 'saga'. Since I posted this ihave found that there is someone on ebay in the States who sells repair kits for Healey control heads that looks remarkably similar to the bits that are in my TR head except that the plunger on my car is monkey metal and not brass. The price for these kits is extortionate BTW - $160 although I would be interested to know where he gets the bits from. The attached photo is copied from the ebay advert and answers most of my questions, however one remains - at the bottom right of the photo there are two small springs. One of them slides into the plunger and holds it in contact but where does the other small one go? Like the photo, I only have one spring in my bag of bits - like you gathered up from a clean white sheet of paper after taking the unit to pieces inside a polythene bag. Any ideas? Incidentally, I have also noticed that The Roadster Factory are currently selling new replacement control heads at $129.92 which at current exchange rates works out at £83, compared to Moss who are offering one at £166. How come? Surely there can only be one supplier? And as final thought on this topic some of the parts would appear to be available in the UK from SC parts under the Austin Healey heading. Search thier AH catalogue for 'Control Head' and there is an exploded diagram, if you then click on the numbers on that diagram you will pull up the part number line on the catalogue, (I would have inserted a link but my 'work' browser is IE6 and doesn't work with this feature of the forum). Stuart do you know if the small parts of the TR and A-H control heads are interchangeable? Rgds Ian Edited January 4, 2011 by Ian Vincent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 The Healey control head is a bit bigger so there is no guarantee that bits would be interchangeable. I think you will find the Moss head actually comes from TRF and even though buying it direct looks cheaper I suspect with the shipping and tax it may not be. I would be very wary of dealing with SC. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ekamm Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 TRF is currently running a sale on the tr2/3 catalog and many of their parts are greatly reduced. I think that it runs through Jan 17 or something near that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted January 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 This evening, I found in my files a copy of the notes issued by the Lucas Technical Service as part of their overseas technical correspondence course. I had completely forgotten that I had them but it contains a complete chapter on winhield wipers, horns semaphore and flashing light indicators and includes detailed instructions on how the control head works. I can't remember where I got them from but judging from the size of the files I don't imagine they would have been loaded on the forum. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alanh Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 ian, i repaired mine last year, without too much trouble, but didn't take any pictures i'm afraid. i do however have a spare control head which is complete and in working order if you want to borrow it for reference. cheers, alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted January 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 ian, i repaired mine last year, without too much trouble, but didn't take any pictures i'm afraid. i do however have a spare control head which is complete and in working order if you want to borrow it for reference. cheers, alan Many thanks for the offer Alan but I am hoping that I will now be OK. I have the Lucaas manual which gives me chapter and verse on how the thing works and I know where all the bits should go and those that are missing/broken. Presumably the previous 'dismantler' didn't take it apart inside a plastic bag because there was no contact wheel and I will need to make a new one but that should be fairly easy to cut & dril from a length of 6mm brass. I will also need to repair the rotor which is showing signs of wear round the pivot and has a piece broken off on one side. Before I try and buy a new pivot (£27 from SC Parts if I remember correctly) I was going to try aralditing a short length of copper tube that is about 11.5mm dia OD over the existing damaged spigot and then slightly open out the hole in the base plate (which has also been damaged by wear) to make it a snug fit. If it all goes wrong, I may be back in touch. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
I used to have one of those! Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 Hi Ian and All. It maybe too late for you Ian, but I have accumalated quite a few spares for sidescreen control heads. Also good knowledge of disassembly and assembly and have probably handle 30 or 40 units over the years. I always keep a supply of parts to mend broken units that I come across. It's usually the same bits that get broken - the raised sides on the stalk holder, the central core after use of force, and of course the front face where people try to remove it by levering it with a screwdriver, rather than undoing the 3 grub screws located on the back of the steering wheel boss. The grub screws can become very difficult to remove and, in desperation, I have used force to remove them, knowing that I had the part to repair it. Still makes me cringe doing it though! Recently, I was fortunate to locate (in the US) a small hoard of parts, enough to make 6 complete units actually, with parts to spare. I don't normally let the parts go as I know I will need them, but if I have duplication, I will for people who are desperate! As it is usually the same bits that break, they are the ones that run out first unfortunately. I have never inspected a repro' one, but usually repro' items follow closely the original design. However, if they are anything like the repro' peardrop overdrive switches, small things will be different and require alteration, not least of which metric threads. The units did vary slightly over the years but nothing that affects application. I have noticed that the cancellation ring can be open of closed. Don't worry about all of the spares holes. The base plate is used for many applications, notably the Triumph Roadster, hence the surplus mouldings towards the bottom. Hope that helps! Regards Simon Westlake Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 Hi Simon, I had given up hope to sort mine. I only need the centre chrome ring as someone used a screwdriver to to try to free the horn push and butchered the chrome ring not just scratched the chrome. I have bought another unit identical to TR one in every way except for no chrome ring round the horn push. Did the early ones not have it?? The guy I bought it from did not mention it at the time and sold it as TR 2. Rgds Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 Hi Rod, no chrome ring ? Mayflower. Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
I used to have one of those! Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 Hi Simon, I had given up hope to sort mine. I only need the centre chrome ring as someone used a screwdriver to to try to free the horn push and butchered the chrome ring not just scratched the chrome. I have bought another unit identical to TR one in every way except for no chrome ring round the horn push. Did the early ones not have it?? The guy I bought it from did not mention it at the time and sold it as TR 2. Rgds Rod Hi Rod It sounds to me as if someone had the same problem as you and removed it. All sidescreen TR control heads are essentially the same, excluding the adjustable type which had a noticable longer spigot to the rear. They all had the chrome ring around the button. The Mayflower unit (and steering wheel) is identicle, including the chrome ring. I have never seen one without it fitted to a Mayflower, and I have seen quite a number. Obviously, they can be removed which is what you have. Mayflowers used to be a good source for replacement units, but over the years I have found them harder to find than TR ones. In truth, it would be more accurate to say that the TR range is fitted with the Mayflower setup, not the other way around, as Mayflowers were earlier. A production cost saving no doubt. The column is also similar, but very different in length. You can tell if a unit is TR or Mayflower by the date stamped on the rear flange. Mayflower production ceased in1953. There are two types of cancellation ring, shrouded and open.The split type has the capability of opening out and therefore become useless. I know that it is very diificult to close up an opened split one, also to correct an out of shape ring of either type. I have attached a photo of the two types. Just one bit of advice on removing the chrome ring. When removing, you really need some sort of conical former to keep the ring in shape and expanded, otherwise the button will stick. Alternatively, use the button fitted on the outside to stop the ring distorting while you prize open the tabs. I should write all this down for future generations! Hope that helps, Simon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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