Clutch release shaft and fork

[Norman D]

In the book "How to Restore TR2,3,3a " ( Williams), there are warnings about the tendency for the pin which connects the clutch release fork to the shaft to shear,and suggestions to drill the shaft and fork and insert a roll pin. Now I have in front of me a drill and a roll pin but before I go beyond thr point of no return can anyone tell me if these pins actually shear in service as I am sure mine only snapped due to my use of exessive force to remove it.Surely drilling another hole in the shaft is going to weaken it and the extra pin may not be noticed by future owners causing them more problems? Any advice please.

[vivdownunder]

For quite a while now high tensile fork pins have been available, and they come drilled for cross wiring. They are a coppery colour and Moss will have them.

 

These new pins more or less rendered the roll pin modification obsolete.

 

Regards,

 

Viv.

[RogerH]

Hi Norman,

unscrewing the pin, no matter how tight, will not shear it. It was probably partly broken when you unscrewed it.

The new pins may well be good enough (at last ) but many people have lost faith in the design so they add the roll pin as well.

 

Any new owner trying to take it apart will quickly realise whats happening.

 

Roger

[Dave Larnder]

Hi Norman

When I fitted the new pin, I found that it was a little longer than the original, and as mentioned in Williams' book I drilled through the fork to give it a better location, then I wired it in position. I did that 2 years ago, and now that I have had to take the gearbox out for repair, I found that the new pin came out no problem with no sign of wear or pressure points.

Dave

[Dave Larnder]

Hi Norman

When I fitted the new pin, I found that it was a little longer than the original, and as mentioned in Williams' book I drilled through the fork to give it a better location, then I wired it in position. I did that 2 years ago, and now that I have had to take the gearbox out for repair, I found that the new pin came out no problem with no sign of wear or pressure points.

Dave

[Ian Vincent]

I don't know how good the new pins are but when I dismantled mine the pin was broken - it had sheared at about 45 degrees which is apparently the normal way they 'go'.

 

So I did drill through my fork and shaft and fit two roll pins - one at each end of the fork.

 

The additional holes shouldn't weaken anything because they will be of smaller diameter than the pin hole so that will remain the weakest point in the shaft.

 

Rgds Ian

[Norman D]

Thanks for all who replied, I have taken the plunge and fitted a new pin with lots of copperslip and drilled and inserted one roll pin,feeling pretty smug hope it lasts. Thanks again Norman.

[randall977]

Having spent the last month on this area of my car I found that the original taper pin (of which I had one unused original) was much stronger (and better quality) than the new high tensile one - which seemed to bend rather easily... Having said that I bent both and have fitted a third new one on a new cross shaft and it is fine.

[Dave Larnder]

Hi Guys

 

When I drilled right through the fork I drilled it out to the minor diameter and reamed it out with a correct tapered reamer, so the pin can locate fully in the new hole putting the pin in shear at two points not one but together less than the original shear force.

Dave