Need to change rear wheel studs

[peter clarke]

My TR3 rear axle is fitted with short studs to suit wire wheel adaptors. I want to fit 5.5" alloy wheels and hence need longer studs. Will the stock steel wheel stud (part 100869) be ok and is there any special techniqe invoved to remove exist and replace.

[TR 2100]

My TR3 rear axle is fitted with short studs to suit wire wheel adaptors. I want to fit 5.5" alloy wheels and hence need longer studs. Will the stock steel wheel stud (part 100869) be ok and is there any special techniqe invoved to remove exist and replace.

 

Once you get the hubs removed, you 'it it wi' an 'ammer.

The studs have a rounded head with a spline that locates in the hub.

 

Once you have the wheels on, drive for a few miles then re-check the

nuts as the studs may just settle in a bit.

 

AlanR

[peter clarke]

Big hammer ok on front hubs but no good at rear as studs appear screwed into flange.

[vivdownunder]

Peter, some mags use precision locating nuts that go through the wheel and will get onto the shortened wire wheel studs.

 

Check that there's a safety margin of thread though.

 

If you have to change the shortened wheel studs, check there's enough room behind the rear hub to get them out. Then to get the longer studs back in.

 

I can't recall if you have to pull the axles to change the wheel studs.

 

Another option is to retain the existing wire wheel set up by getting spline adaptors for the mags.

 

Regards,

 

Viv.

[kiwi-jim]

Peter

As Viv says depending on the alloy wheels you can use the special precision locating nuts, I see moss sell them on their website.

I have the same thing with my 3 the stud length is also short. I have just received from the TR Shop in london a set of their minilite replicas, they are the necessary 5.5 inch, and they come with the required precision locating nuts included in the price. so they look as though they will be a straight bolt on.

They will probably benefit from a bit of rubber round them eventually.

Good luck

Edited July 18, 2010 by kiwi-jim

[Nick Webster]

Seems to be some rather conflicting advice above...

 

The front hub studs do indeed push through from the outside. They have serrations to stop them rotating and are easily removed and replaced. Piece of cake.

 

The rear studs are much more difficult. They are screwed into the hub from the outside and then "spread" to prevent them unscrewing. It follows that you need to remove the half shafts for access to the inside of the hub flange. Mount in a vise (if you grip the half shaft use "lead" jaws - marking can cause failure in shafts) and grind or chisel off the spread metal at the back of the stud. Then assuming you have managed to unscrew them without damaging the thread in the hub, screw in replacements and secure them with a big cold chisel and hammer. You do not need to remove the hub flange from the half shaft but make sure the bearing housing is covered over to prevent swarf from the above operation getting in.

 

Nick Webster

Edited July 18, 2010 by Nick Webster

[RogerH]

Peter,

before you go to all this trouble make sure you know what length of stud you need.

 

Not all repro minilites are the same.

My original set (2 years ago) used the standard steel wheel studs (correct length).

The supplied nuts went into the wheels and formed a 'bush' to centralise the wheel/hub.(I hated them)

 

I have just replaced them with what appears to be identical wheels.

However these utilised coned nuts to centralise.

This means though, that there is apprx 1/2" of metal for the cone to sit on.

Thus making the standard studs toooooooo short.

 

 

Roger

[peter clarke]

Peter,

before you go to all this trouble make sure you know what length of stud you need.

 

Not all repro minilites are the same.

My original set (2 years ago) used the standard steel wheel studs (correct length).

The supplied nuts went into the wheels and formed a 'bush' to centralise the wheel/hub.(I hated them)

 

I have just replaced them with what appears to be identical wheels.

However these utilised coned nuts to centralise.

This means though, that there is apprx 1/2" of metal for the cone to sit on.

Thus making the standard studs toooooooo short.

 

 

Roger

 

[peter clarke]

Thanks all for the responses.

Roger, Where will you get extra long studs from. I have assumed the wire studs will be too short and that the original steel wheel studs would be ok. Assumed wrongly that all alloys would be supplied with nuts suitable for the standard steel wheel studs.

[RogerH]

Hi Peter,

I don't know where to get extra long studs for the 3, you could try Moss's.

 

The short studs for the wires, in theory, would be OK if you could get a nut to fit that gives at least 8 to 10 full turns to tighten.

I don't know if the nuts supplied normally allow this.

 

However, if your wheels require the 'barrel' nut (parallel shank fitting inside the hub) then longer nuts would sort you out (but are they available) but again fairly easily made (3/4" hexagon bar, 7/16" UNF, turn shank to fit).

 

If you have the coned nut then you will require longer studs.

 

Roger

[TR 2100]

The short studs for the wires, in theory, would be OK if you could get a nut

to fit that gives at least 8 to 10 full turns to tighten.

I don't know if the nuts supplied normally allow this.

 

It's worth remembering also that the splined adaptor nuts were

high tensile, the larger standard nuts were not.

On that basis, the shorter wheel stud should be able to take the

strain as long as the wheel nuts are of adequate strength.

But I don't know how you check that.

 

AlanR