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kiwi-jim

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  • Location
    New Zealand
  • Cars Owned:
    Work in the real estate industry, but have outside interests in sports such as Rugby and jetboating. Spent 5 years restoring a 54 Citroen L15 that I still have, and 6 years restoring a 55 TR3, now I am onto a 62 TR4 restoring as a works replica look a like. possible the only one in NZ.

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  1. Hi everyone, can anyone tell me are the weights at the base of the 25 d4 the same across the models. i need to build up a distributor for my TR4 the current reproduction options are way to erratic as the internal weights and springs are hopeless. I have two old Lucas 25d4 off other cars based on the model numbers one with a 17 deg cam one with rebuilt cam now stamped as 12 degree. What I want to know regards the weights and the springs. Are the weights normally the same size, weight across models? I know the mechanical advance cam varies across different cars , it’s the weights I am wondering about currently. Thoughts ??
  2. Thanks everyone. Stuart the photos are particularly helpful. Cheers
  3. Hi everyone, Just wondered, where and to what extent you are putting sound deadening down in a full car rebuild, ie are people just doing the floors, or would you also recommend up the fire wall and over the rear wheel arches, boot etc Just unsure how far to go with sound deadening on a clean rebuild. cheers
  4. Just checked the number on the speedo and it is 1184. so it's correct for the TR4 so then I checked my TR3, it has always read wrong as well and it is number 1180. So next step is I will switch speedos and see if that reads any better and if so try that to see if that will get me through this speedo test that's part of registering a new vehicle on our roads. Ian can you advise me what is the correct number range for a TR3 speedo.. cheers
  5. As I suspected this is sounding like a specialist technical job. As the 25% is pretty consistant. In terms of have I changed anything, like tyre size , diff ratios etc, the answer is no, that has all stayed the same during my rebuild. Ian the technicalities CD's are something we don't have accesss to down here unfortunately. We do have a specialist rebuild company down here so I will contact them , thought I would see if there was a quich option available so to speak. As ever thanks for the advise and suggestions. cheers
  6. Hi Everyone Happy new year, is there any "home hack" you can do to the speedo to get it more accurate. currently reads 80 mph when you are doing 60 mph on the gps, Need it reading more accurately for the new registration compliance. Or do I just have to get it recalibrated? cheers jim
  7. Hi everyone, your prompt responses got me to race out and try some of what you had suggested. So I started checking my connections , the lead from the Dizzy to the coil had spade connnections that seemed to easily slip on and off , so I made up a new connection with new spade terminals, plus I changed the condenser for another that was sitting on an old unused distributor. Flicked the starter and straight away you can see and hear the diffference, took the car for a short run and it was a different beast. There is still a bit of "run on "occurring but your suggestions have really helped. Thanks so much everyone. Have a great Christmas. cheers
  8. Brilliant thanks everyone, like you I do suspect the electrics and in particular the dizzy somewhere, I will start the process of trying all your suggestions . However it will be a few weeks before I can do it and post a reply off the answer as I fly to Germany for Christmas in 48 hrs. Thanks again to everyone , I will eventually let you know the culprit. Have a great Christmas everyone cheers
  9. I need your thoughts The rebuild of my 62 TR4 is well on the way and its sort of back on the road....except for the fact the engine is not running well Heres the story, full engine rebuild, with a tweaked cam, ( wasn't asked for but seems to be what I ended up with), new distributor, ( the Indian reproductions all I can find at present) new coil, etc. Car starts easily, but runs really rough, when cold with backfires, and missing. when it gets warmed up starts to run better. The carbs have all been rebuilt by a local expert and fuel seems to be flowing well. Had the whole set up into a reputed rebuild and restoration company to tune. Now one moment it runs fine, the next it starts backfiring and missing again. On a road run we can one moment be running sweetly at 100kms/hr, and the next it will lose power and backfire and fart around before picking up again and running sweetly again. I have rechecked timing , gap settings, changed plugs, tried the distributor cap and wires off my TR3 ( it runs fine) but its all still misbehaving intermittently. So i guess its either spark/ electrics or fuel related issue, I'm just lost as to what. What am I missing or perhaps should recheck.
  10. Rog The other thing I found helped control the spill was to run plumbers thread tape around the cylinder thread it stopped seepage straight away for me cheers
  11. Thanks everyone for your help Malbaby, what I mean is that when I refit the glass now, the window that was marked RHS fits in the left door guides better, where as if I put the marked LHS window in the left door it has a lot of back to front movement because it is a slightly smaller length/ width. Equally the LHS marked window fits nicely in the right door and moves well Vs the marked RHS window which jams in the right door because it is 7mm wider. And can hardly move. So that's all good I could switch the windows over. But then the C Chanel guides on the bottom of the windows that the winder mechanism arms attach thru, look to be the wrong way round in comparison to the moss catalogue. That's why I am stumped, and I can only ask how this bottom Chanel is supposed to line up, which way round should the winder mechanism pins attach thru this Chanel. Seems bob could be right in that I might have glass from two different models in the parts that I inherited with the car, I assume they must have been in the doors at some stage, because the car had previously been a daily driver in the UK by the previous owner. But who knows, and this is turning into a bit of a mystery. Cheers jim
  12. I purchased my car as a disassembled project and am now at the stage of putting the car windows back together. WHAT FUN What i have found after a lot of shagging around is that the window marked as LHS fits the RHS of the car better and vice Versa. Turns out they are different lengths/widths when I measured them after having numerous fitting issues, one is 770 mm wide and the other is 776 mm wide. What the real issue is now, is that the window winder runners attached to the bottom of each window now look to be the wrong way round in comparison to the diagram in the parts catalogue. Where as the catalogue shows the winder arm Pins come in from the Back of the C channel now because the windows look to fit better on different sides the pins go thru the open side of the C channel runner. Can this be right / does it matter/ what have I done wrong???? The window glass end guides that attach to the doors seemed to be handed so I cant believe I have them on the wrong doors or am I wrong with them, and this is whats causing my problem. Cheers jim
  13. Brilliant thanks mike I will check them out appreciate it
  14. Pete I did wonder if that or something similar would be an alternative , Stuart /Roger thanks for the replies Stuart the "rivets" are still holding tight and there seem to be some wavy thin washers within the join which to me indicates there is supposed to be some movement rather than just through the usual axis, how would i know whats too much any further thoughts cheers
  15. Hi Team I have started trying to put my window mechanisms back in the car and the first attempt was a mess so I have it all out again and have spent a lot of time going thru past posts on the topic which have given me plenty of things to work on when I try reinstalling. before I do however I have one question around the amount of movement in some of the winder mechanism joints. in the whole mechanism there is a central joining bar that runs between the actual winder and the x that hooks into the window and door slides in my case I seem to have what I think is a lot of slop/slack in the "rivet " at each end that holds this central bar . ( hope this makes sense) my question is are these two "riveted" joints supposed to have plenty of free movement Sorry this is about the best way I can describe it Also I dont seem to have any thackery washers , is there another alternative cheers jim
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