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im replacing the windscreen on my tr3a and im trying to split the frame to replace the glass has anyone got any easy tricks for removing the screws from the frame they are solid and rusty as usual. :(

 

 

Dave there isnt an easy way, lots of WD40 over a week may help but drilling out can be the norm and new brackets needed, its a tough job and time consuming, and remember the bolts are of a differing length down the sides so when completed you can crack the new glass if you dont remember this.

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One thing you may find is the new screws with the bracket kits have slightly larger heads and may be difficult to get through the outer section of the channel <_<

I always end up drilling the old ones out as they very rarely come undone. When you get the new rubber check its thickness as the ones coming through at the moment are 1.2mm thick which is (depending on the glass) sometimes too thick. 1mm is a preferred thickness.

Check also that the small rubber locating blocks are still present in the frame as a screen that moves around is more prone to cracking and as Pete says check the length of the screws securing the frame to the stanchions, as per original the slightly longer ones go in the bottom.

Stuart.

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Check also that the small rubber locating blocks are still present in the frame

as a screen that moves around is more prone to cracking

 

 

Hi Suart,

 

Thaht's a new one on me - I've dismantled a few windscreens

(that I'm sure had never been dismantled before) and never

seen these.

 

This was always a modification I carried out myself because,

as you say, you have to stop the windscreen moving around.

They also make sure the windscreen is central in the frame -

another important aspect, and you can't guarantee that when

you knock the frame onto the glass (rubber hammer!)

 

AlanR

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Check also that the small rubber locating blocks are still present in the frame

as a screen that moves around is more prone to cracking

 

 

Hi Stuart,

 

Thaht's a new one on me - I've dismantled a few windscreens

(that I'm sure had never been dismantled before) and never

seen these.

 

This was always a modification I carried out myself because,

as you say, you have to stop the windscreen moving around.

They also make sure the windscreen is central in the frame -

another important aspect, and you can't guarantee that when

you knock the frame onto the glass (rubber hammer!)

 

AlanR

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Hi Stuart,

 

Thaht's a new one on me - I've dismantled a few windscreens

(that I'm sure had never been dismantled before) and never

seen these.

 

This was always a modification I carried out myself because,

as you say, you have to stop the windscreen moving around.

They also make sure the windscreen is central in the frame -

another important aspect, and you can't guarantee that when

you knock the frame onto the glass (rubber hammer!)

 

AlanR

 

Alan I have also seen some without as well. I think it was done individually depending on how the screen fitted in the frame due to anomalies in either. Worst problem these days with some of the screens is the bottom corners not being shaped correctly. I have seen some that when fitted left a gap down at the bottom corners between the frame and the glass! :blink: and one with a ripple all the way along the bottom edge that was enough to touch either side of the frame without the rubber :o

Stuart.

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When I assemble a windscreen I always use a cycle inner tube as the rubber gasket material.

 

Simply split an inner tube and lay it around the glass whilst inserting in the frame.

 

The Moss gasket is too thick.

 

Good luck,

 

Tony

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...got two corner brackets on order.ouch there not cheap for a small L shaped bracket.

 

 

 

That's what I thought, but how much time and effort would it take to make your own and get them to fit first time (which the Moss ones do)?

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I had excellent results in 2007 with my latest replacement. I used a rubber glazing strip I bought from Moss in California. It's 1.5 inches wide and the thickness was perfect. It's also pliable enough to fold over the edge and tape it flat onto the glass while you are inserting it into the frame.

Edited by Don Elliott
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I had excellent results in 2007 with my latest replacement. I used a rubber glazing strip I bought from Moss in California. It's 1.5 inches wide and the thickness was perfect. It's also pliable enough to fold over the edge and tape it flat onto the glass while you are inserting it into the frame.

 

 

Thats the one I used as well - no problem. Just let it settle down after a few hours driving BEFORE you trim off the excess.

 

Dave

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