joespiro Posted November 25, 2009 Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 Hi all I am re-commisioning the Warwick and now have a clutch problem, it has a standard 3a clutch with the same hydralics etc. Basicly when you push the pedal, nothing happens - I can't engage a gear. I am guessing that it is either a stuck plate or a hydralic problem. does anyone have any advice on how to proceed and fault find? I can't find my one man bleeding kit anywhere so i thought i might try putting it in reverse with the hand brake on and start it up. Is this a good or bad idea? Thanks in advance. Joe Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted November 25, 2009 Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 I am re-commisioning the Warwick and now have a clutch problem, it has a standard 3a clutch with the same hydralics etc. Basicly when you push the pedal, nothing happens - I can't engage a gear. I am guessing that it is either a stuck plate or a hydralic problem. does anyone have any advice on how to proceed and fault find? I can't find my one man bleeding kit anywhere so i thought i might try putting it in reverse with the hand brake on and start it up. Is this a good or bad idea? A bad idea, at least until you have checked out the problem a bit more. First thing to check is whether or not the slave cylinder is moving the clutch lever. You'll need a second pair of eyes for that one. If it does move, then the clutch is clearly stuck on, and I can give you more details (from very bitter experience) how you should be able to resolve this without taking out the gearbox. AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
joespiro Posted November 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 Hi The hydrualics seem ok, the lever moves on the bellhousing as the pedal is operated. Does this means the plates have stuck together or could it be I need to adjust the pedal box? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted November 25, 2009 Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 The hydrualics seem ok, the lever moves on the bellhousing as the pedal is operated. Does this means the plates have stuck together or could it be I need to adjust the pedal box? This means almost certainly that the clutch plate is stuck. It could just be that the clutch shaft is moving but the fork is not moving, due to failure of the clevis pin, but that is much less likely. To free the clutch insitu, you need heat, heat, heat. I'll send you a PM to explain. AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
joespiro Posted November 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 This means almost certainly that the clutch plate is stuck. It could just be that the clutch shaft is moving but the fork is not moving, due to failure of the clevis pin, but that is much less likely. To free the clutch insitu, you need heat, heat, heat. I'll send you a PM to explain. AlanR Thanks Alan Is it worth letting the engine get really hot and see if the heat frees it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted November 25, 2009 Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 Hi Joe, I've had the 3A clutch freeze up once or twice after lack of use over winter. I used heat like Alan suggested, and let the engine get really hot idling with the electric fan switched off, then pumped the clutch long and hard, and it freed up. But a word of warning - be really careful if and when it lets go, as I nearly had the car catpult through the back of the garage. Luckily it was in the front section, and the back section was empty, or I could have written off two cars right inside the garage. Imagine the insurance assessor's questions. I would push the car out into the kerb first, if it happened again. Regards, Viv. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hpremote Posted November 25, 2009 Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 Hi, Joe: years ago when I had an MGA stored over a number of winter months in a local barn, I encountered the dreaded "stuck clutchplate" syndrome. In those days, brute force and ignorance ruled more strongly perhaps than now, as preferred mode d'emploi. So without further thought I arranged for a tow. Going up and down the farm track a couple of times with the engine running and in gear quickly freed off the clutch and - maybe I was lucky - no further issues. In those days I'd have probably done it with a Lockheed axled 2/3 as well - and probably paid the price too! With your car of course there is no such design weakness... Good luck, Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roly Posted November 26, 2009 Report Share Posted November 26, 2009 Also from the MG world for fixing stuck clutch plates. And it it requires virtually no effort. And is non violent. And it works!! Warm engine up nice and hot. Switch off Jam clutch pedal down to the floor with a lump of wood of something. Leave overnight. Et voila! In the morning all will be well. Its all down to radial expansion and contaction. Roly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Norman D Posted November 26, 2009 Report Share Posted November 26, 2009 Jack up rear wheels,support with axle stands, engage ,say 3rd gear, start engine, let it warm up,depress clutch,apply brakes ,this will work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
joespiro Posted November 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2009 Hi all Thanks for all the suggestions, I will give it a try over the weekend and report back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malcolm Tatton Posted November 26, 2009 Report Share Posted November 26, 2009 Joe, Don't want to put you off any of the previous suggestions, but last spring I tried them all.. Get the engine hot leave the clutch depressed overnight.. didn't work. Get the engine hot, start in gear on the road with the clutch depressed.. flattened the battery through many attempts.... didn't work. Get the engine hot, jack up the back, start the engine clutch depressed in gear, brake gently, brake hard, stall the engine, overheat the brakes.... didn't work. Get the engine hot, jack up the back on the road, start the engine clutch depressed in gear, drop the jack..... DIDN'T try this one.... Get the engine hot, tow along the road, in gear clutch depressed,freed after a few yards, AT LAST something worked! Best wishes from someone who really thought that the engine would have to come out! Malcolm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted November 26, 2009 Report Share Posted November 26, 2009 A couple of previous threads worth a read: http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=14107&view=&hl=clutch&fromsearch=1 http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=9941&view=&hl=clutch&fromsearch=1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jobster Posted November 26, 2009 Report Share Posted November 26, 2009 can't engage with or without the engine running? Without the engine running it could be a stuck plate, but try it again if you move the car a bit. If it does engage without running engine, I'm afraid it's more likely a failing frictionplate. Did you happen to have it changed in the last couple of years? There have been quite a few faulty batches of friction plates (don't ask how I know) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
joespiro Posted November 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2009 It was a new clutch about 3 years ago, but it had been in the garage for some time so is hopefully ok. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roly Posted November 27, 2009 Report Share Posted November 27, 2009 I know of an MGC owner who made a hole large enough in his bell housing so that he could get to and loosen off all the pressure plate bolts and then "ping" the driven plate away from the flywheel with a screwdriver. I think that was a case of trying anything rather than take the engine out. Deparate measures indeed. Roly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted November 28, 2009 Report Share Posted November 28, 2009 I know of an MGC owner who made a hole large enough in his bell housing so that he could get to and loosen off all the pressure plate bolts and then "ping" the driven plate away from the flywheel with a screwdriver. I believe that has also been done on a TR via the starter motor hole, although removing an original starter motor is not a bundle of laughs in itself. I guess this could be one advantage of have an early gearbox with the later starter motor like mine, which means the bell-housing will have had a section cut out for the starter throw out, and a removable cover fitted over it. However, I prefer the brute force and ignorance solutions as described in the other threads I mentioned. At least one of them always worked for me and they don't require any dismantling. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
joespiro Posted November 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2009 Problem Solved! I started the car in reverse gear - just to get the car out the garage and it Freed itself! I then took it for a little drive - first time in over 2 years - and I'm still grinning like an idiot..... Thanks all. Joe Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jobster Posted November 29, 2009 Report Share Posted November 29, 2009 great!! And now, keep it rolling!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted November 29, 2009 Report Share Posted November 29, 2009 That's the way to do it !! (and use it regularly throughout the winter in future). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
joespiro Posted November 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2009 Agreed, it's just the small matter of an MOT now.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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