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Is this a special tool?

 

See diagram and excerpt below. Considering that I have never seen let alone own a 1/8" Unbrako hexagon wrench, I assume that this is a tool which limits the torque at which the allen screw is tightened.

 

What can be used as an alternative and is this a safe approach?

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Hi Frank,

 

Jerry is quite right, Unbrako were and are manufacturers of top notch fasteners, particularly known for socket heads.

 

The allen (hex) key in question was a 'long', which means about 4" as opposed to the 2" short or 6" extra long.

 

Hope that helps . . . but sorry, I've no idea what that equates to in torque, other than a damn good pull - Unbrako hex tools were as good as it got, you'd have to go some to bend one !!!

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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Hi Frank,

 

Jerry is quite right, Unbrako were and are manufacturers of top notch fasteners, particularly known for socket heads.

 

The allen (hex) key in question was a 'long', which means about 4" as opposed to the 2" short or 6" extra long.

 

Hope that helps . . . but sorry, I've no idea what that equates to in torque, other than a damn good pull - Unbrako hex tools were as good as it got, you'd have to go some to bend one !!!

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

 

Thanks guys for your expert assistance!

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Is this a special tool?

 

See diagram and excerpt below. Considering that I have never seen let alone own a 1/8" Unbrako hexagon wrench, I assume that this is a tool which limits the torque at which the allen screw is tightened.

 

What can be used as an alternative and is this a safe approach?

 

Just got this clamping arrangement apart this morning. I had to escape the heat and humidity for a while as it's about 85F and maybe 90% rh.

 

You may want to make a notation in your workshop manuals because the 1/8-inch hex is actually a 3/16-inch hex (at least on my TR250). :angry:

 

Can someone measure and concur, please.

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Just got this clamping arrangement apart this morning. I had to escape the heat and humidity for a while as it's about 85F and maybe 90% rh.

 

You may want to make a notation in your workshop manuals because the 1/8-inch hex is actually a 3/16-inch hex (at least on my TR250). :angry:

 

Can someone measure and concur, please.

 

Just checked Frank and you are right 3/16"

Regards Harry TR5 Nutter <_<

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can you explain why this is important? thanks

 

Frank

It is std practice to renew the whole clamp if the stud is slightly rounded you will get play on the steering wheel and bare in mind it is designed to collapse ie slide in a collision

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Frank

It is std practice to renew the whole clamp if the stud is slightly rounded you will get play on the steering wheel and bare in mind it is designed to collapse ie slide in a collision

 

 

OK thanks. That sure makes sense.

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  • 2 weeks later...

"Frank

It is std practice to renew the whole clamp if the stud is slightly rounded you will get play on the steering wheel and bare in mind it is designed to collapse ie slide in a collision"

 

 

First a comment:

 

I agree. This would be the logical thing to do. However, the clamps are no longer manufactured and a quick check of the major suppliers shows NLA!

I was offered a good used one by Revingtons, but what's the point. So, I have decided to re-use what I have but I first did a thorough examination for cracks, bad threads, etc. I will fit a new grub screw and lock nut also.

 

Now, an UPDATE!!!

I reported previously, that I could not find torque values for the safety clamp bolts and grub screw in my Haynes manual. It seemed to me that this was critical.

 

However, after further research:

 

The Robert Bentley TR250/TR6 shop manual states the following:

 

" . . . .tighten both pinch bolt and the two bolts securing the safety clamp - torque 6 to 9 lb-ft."

 

" . . . .tighten the grub screw - torque 18 to 20 lb-ft and tighten the lock nut."

 

:)

Edited by angelfj
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" . . . .tighten both pinch bolt and the two bolts securing the safety clamp - torque 6 to 9 lb-ft."

 

" . . . .tighten the grub screw - torque 18 to 20 lb-ft and tighten the lock nut."

 

:)

 

Frank

That is the correct sequence I will Pm you later but having problems with email's etc just now

Edited by ntc
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