TR3 restoration Posted August 9, 2009 Report Share Posted August 9, 2009 (edited) I would terribly love to be shown a photo of the boot release assy on a TR3, where the lock goes in the center of the boot. I need a pic of the Underneath side. I am doing some sheet metal work to correct this boot before giving it back to the customer, but if the metal isn't right then he'll not be pleased if you know what I mean If anyone can photo this and post it or simply tell me the layout of the two pieces of metal when properly assembled, that would be nice. Here is a picture of how it sits currently. There should NOT be a gap under here, correct? Thanks, FE Edited August 9, 2009 by TR3 restoration Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted August 10, 2009 Report Share Posted August 10, 2009 (edited) On my 58 3A’s original boot lid, there is a gap between the two skins along the leading edge across the width of the boot lid - as shown in your second photo. Hope these help.......... Cheers Andrew Edited August 10, 2009 by Andrew Smith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR3 restoration Posted August 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2009 (edited) Thank you Andrew but that's not going to do it for me. I don't have the metal cage spot welded to mine, (dont' think it was ever there, no evidence) and my boot release latches are to the left and right ends, the center is only the release and lock and does not contact the car that I am aware of.... What about your bonnet's back side lip. Is it folded over or straight sharp steel? Edited August 10, 2009 by TR3 restoration Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted August 10, 2009 Report Share Posted August 10, 2009 Other than the position of the two locks, I would be very surprised if the structure for boot lid changed between a 57 3 and 58 3A i.e the two skin positions / gap, but I'm sure someone on the Forum will be able to advise? My rear bonnet lip is folded at 90 degrees, as are the bonnet sides. Hope this helps: Cheers Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR3 restoration Posted August 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2009 (edited) Sorry mate, I was speaking of the Bonnet having the flat edge. Wiht the exception of the boot latch, our boots are the same. My Hood/Bonnet on the back edge is flat straight cut, like the edge of a sheet of flat metal. I'm going to play hell getting it flat and straight for the owner, but as long as he's got the $ I've got the time. I just never knew they had a straight cut edge and not a folded or bent lip. FE P.S. Why is there no "Watch this thread" or "email notification" option for this forum setup? Edited August 10, 2009 by TR3 restoration Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted August 10, 2009 Report Share Posted August 10, 2009 Why is there no "Watch this thread" or "email notification" option for this forum setup? Try 'Options > Track this topic' from top right of window. (Never used it, but sounds like the thing you need). Also, as already stated, the commission number is essential in identifying correct bodywork details for TR3 and TR3A - lots happened at different comm nos but it should be possible to work out what is correct using the parts manual and Bill Piggott's 'Original TR2/3/3A'. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Down Posted August 10, 2009 Report Share Posted August 10, 2009 (edited) Is this what you are looking for? TR2 lid with central ignition type lock and Dzus fasteners at each side. A bit dusty and rusty I am afraid The TR2 boot lid definitely has no gap between the rib and the inner lid surface. Also checked a second TR2 lid I have, its the same. Not sure when the locking arrangement changed from the above TR2 type to the 3A type with central handle No doubt someone on here will know Edited August 10, 2009 by Paul Down Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR3 restoration Posted August 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 Thanks Brian. I will use that. I looked but didn't see it That pic is perfect Paul. I can now proceed onward to the boot lid. I am tackling the bonnet at the same time and came into a little curiosity... The above pic shows that there is a double layer of rubber between the bonnet skin and the hinge brace, there is a little piece I took out for reference. I imagine that I am going to have to replicate these or get a replacement set before effecting any further repair on the bonnet...?... Am I correct? I do not want to do a sketchy job on this man's bonnet. Thanks for any assistance. Sorry if I get pushy for answers... I wish to get them finished by Monday, they are my only monetary income at the moment. FE Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 I've just had a look at the spare bonnet (still for sale!!) from my 1958 TR3A (TS29xxx) and the hinge braces are welded to the skin. Incidentally, this bonnet has a rear flange, folded to an angle of about 60-70 degrees, so different from the slightly earlier TR3 one you are working on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 The car you are rebuilding looks to be fitted with an early TR2 bonnet without the later folded down flange on the rear lip, as shown in Andrew's photo. Hinge bolt cushions aren't available as repro parts for these, so you'll have to make them. I'd consider using gasket paper rather than rubber, which might compress, and distort your new panel work on the rear lip. The boot lid you show is from a car up to the last TR3 of 1957, TS22013, which had a keyed lock in the centre without a handle. These locks are available from the major parts suppliers. Thereafter, TR3A boot lids had the left and right T key locks deleted, and just used a centre keyed lock with a handle. Regards, Viv. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR3 restoration Posted August 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 The car you are rebuilding looks to be fitted with an early TR2 bonnet without the later folded down flange on the rear lip, as shown in Andrew's photo. Hinge bolt cushions aren't available as repro parts for these, so you'll have to make them. I'd consider using gasket paper rather than rubber, which might compress, and distort your new panel work on the rear lip. The boot lid you show is from a car up to the last TR3 of 1957, TS22013, which had a keyed lock in the centre without a handle. These locks are available from the major parts suppliers. Thereafter, TR3A boot lids had the left and right T key locks deleted, and just used a centre keyed lock with a handle. Regards, Viv. Thank you for that info. Do you know the thickness they are supposed to be? I have some gasket material I can use but knowing what teh factory used would be excellent. Regards, FE Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 You must be new to the Tr rebuilding world. There is no way you can finish this by Monday and continue with research at the same time. The Forum will give you all the answers and experience will soon show you how long a simple task on a Tr will take. Overhaul the bonnet so that it fits can never be done by Monday any week. good luck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR3 restoration Posted August 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 New to TR's yes, but to restoration no. The man want's his bonnet I will give him his bonnet. I do not have the car here. It is currently disassembled, I have the front and rear fenders and deck and bonnet and spare tire cover. I sent the doors back last month, along with the body that I've already done complete floor pans on. Are you saying that I cannot repair the hood without the car to active fit it to during the restoration process? FE Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 New to TR's yes, but to restoration no. The man want's his bonnet I will give him his bonnet. I do not have the car here. It is currently disassembled, I have the front and rear fenders and deck and bonnet and spare tire cover. I sent the doors back last month, along with the body that I've already done complete floor pans on. Are you saying that I cannot repair the hood without the car to active fit it to during the restoration process? FE You must have the car to be able to successfully get any of the outer panels to fit correctly otherwise you are wasting your time. even a good panel from one car wont fit another one properly as they were all "fitted" at the factory, often with a lot of lead. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR3 restoration Posted August 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 Well, ****... That don't make e feel very nice... I'll call the owner tell him to deliver the car back to me. If he won't then he get's to fit the parts himself after I make them straight. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR3 restoration Posted August 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 (edited) .... Edited August 12, 2009 by TR3 restoration Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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