Clutch/Brake Reservoir

[Dave Larnder]

Hi everybody.

 

My clutch/brake reservoir fluid level is up to, though just below the top of the clutch inner cylinder by 0.5mm. However I have had 2 occasions now when fluid has leaked out of the top (nowhere else) cap. Should there be a non return valve in the lid as there appears to be a small hole in the top but you can't put a needle or the likes through it?

Has anyone else experienced this or is it just a hot climate problem.

Any suggestions as to what the correct level should be to allow for expansion, and/or the return of clutch fluid and brake fluid at the same time to the reservoir,with the release of the pedals.

Fortunately no damage to the body paintwork as yet, but a little has stripped off the reservoir cap around the rim.

 

Dave

[Andrew Smith]

Dave

 

TRK does the same trick - just enough in the rim to need soaking up every now and then but never overspills, so I replaced the rubber washer in the cap - it still does it (!!), so maybe I need a new cap?

 

The battle for supremacy continues......................

 

Cheers

Andrew

[RogerH]

Hi Dave, Andrew,

nothing too mysterious but still damned annoying. The fluid gets slushed around as the car is driven. The seal is next to useless and so the tsumani of hydraulic fluid hits the reservoir cap and finds its way past the seal, down the outside of the cylinder and lays quite nicely below.

Only fill the res about half way, this should limit the tidal flow

 

There must be a better way

 

Roger

[Colin Fairhurst]

Hi everybody.

 

My clutch/brake reservoir fluid level is up to, though just below the top of the clutch inner cylinder by 0.5mm. However I have had 2 occasions now when fluid has leaked out of the top (nowhere else) cap. Should there be a non return valve in the lid as there appears to be a small hole in the top but you can't put a needle or the likes through it?

Has anyone else experienced this or is it just a hot climate problem.

Any suggestions as to what the correct level should be to allow for expansion, and/or the return of clutch fluid and brake fluid at the same time to the reservoir,with the release of the pedals.

Fortunately no damage to the body paintwork as yet, but a little has stripped off the reservoir cap around the rim.

 

Dave

The hand book says that the fluid level should be 1/2inch (12mm) from the top of the resevoir and itshould be never less than half full. The cap has got a baffle inside which allows air to pass inside and out as the fluid level goes up and down when braking or using the clutch and at the same time reducing the chance of contaminates passing through.

If I had the leaking problem I would suspect that either air was getting into the system giving a soft pedal or that some sort of vapour was forming in the wheel cylinders when the brakes were hot causing a surge back when releasing the brake pedal. It could be worth bleeding the brakes to get rid of any moisture if this has not been done for a while.

Regards, Colin.

[Dave Larnder]

The hand book says that the fluid level should be 1/2inch (12mm) from the top of the resevoir and itshould be never less than half full. The cap has got a baffle inside which allows air to pass inside and out as the fluid level goes up and down when braking or using the clutch and at the same time reducing the chance of contaminates passing through.

If I had the leaking problem I would suspect that either air was getting into the system giving a soft pedal or that some sort of vapour was forming in the wheel cylinders when the brakes were hot causing a surge back when releasing the brake pedal. It could be worth bleeding the brakes to get rid of any moisture if this has not been done for a while.

Regards, Colin.

Thanks Colin . I have to do the first 1000 mile tighten up after our club run out on Sunday week, so that's another thing to do, but was on my list anyway. I know that brake fluid is hygroscopic but with less than 1000 miles since a total reconstruct and the use of turbo discs and the fact that this is Spain and moisture is something we aint got., it wasn't something I had thought about. As I said I have the FULL SERVICE to do and as the manufacturer said it takes about 600 miles to bed the brakes in and remove the protective skin they put on the new discs, thats why it was on my list.

So I was right in thinking the cap had some sort of non return valve built into it.

Andrew. It is of some consolation that TResa isn't alone as you say TRK does the same.

 

Dave

[Don Elliott]

Dave - Remove the cap, clean it as best you can, put it to your lips and try to blow air through the tiny hole in the top center. If you hear air blowing through, then you know that tiny vent hole is not blocked. Screw on the cap and tighten it down with your hand. A good rubber seal inside should prevent any fulid from getting out the top.

 

I keep the level in mine for my early 1958 TR3A just above the top rim of the inner tubular cannister in the reservoir. This way, if I can see that one or the other chambers is a bit below this rim, then I have lost some fluid and it's time to add a little to top it up just so that inner rim is covered. Also, I can monitor which chamber might be leaking or losing fluid. I have tot it up every spring as a normal event for the season. After that, I rarely need to add any more fluid.

 

I have been using silicone fluid in mine for 19 years now.

[Dave Larnder]

Dave - Remove the cap, clean it as best you can, put it to your lips and try to blow air through the tiny hole in the top center. If you hear air blowing through, then you know that tiny vent hole is not blocked. Screw on the cap and tighten it down with your hand. A good rubber seal inside should prevent any fulid from getting out the top.

 

I keep the level in mine for my early 1958 TR3A just above the top rim of the inner tubular cannister in the reservoir. This way, if I can see that one or the other chambers is a bit below this rim, then I have lost some fluid and it's time to add a little to top it up just so that inner rim is covered. Also, I can monitor which chamber might be leaking or losing fluid. I have tot it up every spring as a normal event for the season. After that, I rarely need to add any more fluid.

 

I have been using silicone fluid in mine for 19 years now.

Hi Don

I did the blowing through the hole bit and that was O.K.

As I said I lowered my level to 0.5mm below the top of the clutch reservoir inner cylinder and yesterday we went out in 32deg.C and all was well so I think I have the level problem cracked.

The rubber seal is obviously new as is the actual reservoir, but maybe the rubber seal isn't too good. I presume this seal is actually made from neoprene rather than natural rubber as brake fluid would attack that I thought.

 

Dave

[M. Pied Lourd]

When I purchased my 60 3A a few months ago when I looked under the bonnet, I found a white cotton sock pulled over the fluid reservoir. My car had been converted to a vintage racer and when I asked the PO about the sock, he called it his "Triumph racing sock".......apparently, this was his solution to soak up and fluid spilled during hard cornering/braking etc. I thought it was cute. Anyway, I took some pics of the sock before I removed it to do my restoration. It is tucked away in a safe place in case I get the urge to go racing!

 

Cheers,

M. Pied Lourd