Oil filters

[Andrew Smith]

I'm liking the K&N

 

Steve,

 

You may have already seen this thread, but if not: http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/38206-oil-filter/&do=findComment&comment=290584

 

Cheers

Andrew

[Steves_TR6]

Steve,

 

You may have already seen this thread, but if not: http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/38206-oil-filter/&do=findComment&comment=290584

 

Cheers

Andrew

Yep, saw that and ordered a couple of K&Ns just now.

 

Thanks, and Happy Christmas !

 

Steve

[Mike C]

Do the Australian chaps still recommend any of the following Ryco filters - Z37, Z63 or Z 418. In particular can you screw them more than 2 turns onto a Mocal spin on adapter? These should be easy for me to obtain from a local parts store.

[Mk1PI]

All those Ryco filter are fine

[Mike C]

Thanks Andy. After the Wix filter blew off I developed a great fear of totally losing all oil . Do the threads on your adapter only engage the filters by 2 threads or so? While this has worked for me with a Ryco 134 in the past it's sailing pretty close to the wind. I purchased a Z 37 this afternoon and the thread height in the body seems to be the same as the Z134 which, to be fair worked for years this this minimal engagement. I'm quite happy now to use the recommendations of yourself and Andrew P- unless I have a bad filter adapter with a abnormally short threaded length..

[JohnG]

Ive got the later spin on filter adaptor. Do I have to go to Moss et al, or can I get the filters from the local shop. Can anybodyadvise what they are, ref etc. Thanks David Johnson.

 

 

As Richard says, bigger filter = more surface area = goes on filtering for longer.However, I guess we all do an oil & filter change every 3,000 miles so the extra filter life is probably academic.Yes, that's an interesting site. Hard to know whether one is buying a decent filter or just dross with a fancy label.Bit like batteries really.I've been pondering a Filtermag to catch finer ferrous particles. After all, the standard filter only filters down to about 40 micron which is pretty large.http://www.agriemach.com/default.php?cPath=46On other forumsss there is disagreement about their benefit I have to say.Ivor

 

David

I would be very wary of low cost option like, Wix, Unipart, Coopers, TJ and Fram et al.

The way for manufacturers to keep filter costs down are many fold, but the best 3 are;

- reduce media quantity

- buy poor quality media

- combined with the 2 above, using media with a high micron rating.

 

Low cost suppliers supply low cost and low quality product

I like a bargain but, my oil filters are always good quality (use a reputable manufacturer of quality and be happy to pay a good price)

 

I have tested Wix and Fram myself and the media they use in their Hydraulic filters is very poor, so, I reason, why would their car filters be any different.

 

Car oil filters range in efficiency, from about 35um, to in excess of 60um.

They all use paper media. It is difficult under multipass test, to prove efficiency repeatability of paper (paper is often referred to as 'resin impregnated cellulose')

 

I use a long can as it offers greater media surface area and thus ensures that the delta P remains low for longer. In addition it offers longer life and, like Mick, I like the better access it offers.

 

As for the Filtermag;

I have no experience of the product, so can't comment beyond saying that, whilst removal of the ferrous particulates is good in principle, as is the claimed 2um, car engines are designed to 'work dirty'.

Remember, the smallest ferrous particles are the easiest for the magnet to stop . .they are the lightest. But they are so small, they spin through the system almost unnoticed. Remember, engines are dirt tolerant.

I would want to grab the larger 10um+ particles and would like to see test data and efficiency figures for this.

 

Having said all that, the principle of capturing ferrous particles has to be a sound one.

 

 

Thanks Andy. After the Wix filter blew off I developed a great fear of totally losing all oil . Do the threads on your adapter only engage the filters by 2 threads or so? While this has worked for me with a Ryco 134 in the past it's sailing pretty close to the wind. I purchased a Z 37 this afternoon and the thread height in the body seems to be the same as the Z134 which, to be fair worked for years this this minimal engagement. I'm quite happy now to use the recommendations of yourself and Andrew P- unless I have a bad filter adapter with a abnormally short threaded length..

 

Just a 2 thread engagement on a filter under pressure would, if I'm honest, cause me to worry somewhat.

Viscous oil and 75psi+ are 2 good reasons for ensuring good thread engagement.

(When I was gainfully employed, our low pressure spin on filter housings utilised between 4 and 7 full threads)

Edited December 10, 2016 by wjgco

[Mike C]

Thanks John,

 

I agree most spin on filters have 4 to 7 turns before the gasket face contacts the housing, I then usually hand tighten them another 2/3 turn. In the case of the spin on adapter I never noticed how few turns there were before the gasket contacted the adapter face until I changed to a Wix filter and it blew off. Then I started to worry. I counted the installation turns and inspected the threads of the Wix filter- the initial threads are of incomplete form and seem to be partially rolled.

 

Anyway the Mocal adapter was sold as a model TT1286 -suitable for a TR6 and it has worked with a Ryco filter with 2 threads engaged for 12 years with up to 80-100 psi cold starting oil pressure. At least 2 Australian users have used these adapters with Ryco filters and confirmed that they are satisfactory. The Ryco filter will turn possibly another half to a full turn before it is tight compared to the Wix. The adapter thread looks OK so unless there was a batch with short stubs made I have to assume that it will keep on working or alternatively reinstall the original canister type filter.

 

Currently I'm proposing to use the Ryco Z37 filter that Andrew and Andy from WA suggest , together with a new oil PRV plunger and spring. And warm the engine up carefully keeping the oil pressure at 80-100 psi max.

Life's a worry,

Regards,

Mike C