boggie Posted April 18, 2009 Report Share Posted April 18, 2009 (edited) Hi all We are having some wiring issues with the car, for some reason the car is drawing current even when the ignition is switched off. If we connect the battery there is a flash / spark as the terminal connects, the ammeter measures -30A and the ignition light is illuminated. If we then turn the ignition switch on the ignition light extinguishes but the drain is still there. It seems that there is a current draw on the one of the two white wires (that goes to the starter button / ignition light etc) connected to terminal D on the regulator. After disconnecting the coil the two white wires from the regulator and the generator we managed to lose the large current draw but when connecting the battery cable we could hear the relay clicking inside the regulator. We are beginning to suspect a short somewhere in the loom (unless any of you guys know better). After wasting many hours scratching our heads it has got to the point where we need to find an auto electrician. As they charge around 50 pounds per hour we are considering fitting a new loom as Moss sell them for the equivalent of about 3 hours of auto elec time. This may not solve the issue but the wiring, especially on the rear of the dash, is pretty shoddy and old. Fitting a new loom would remove wiring from the equasion and as I have spent half a day sorting the engine bay loom and recon on at least another couple of days to sort the rest it may be quicker to replace the loom. Have any of you done this? If you could let me know how easy / hard it was to fit the new loom, where you got yours (assuming it was a good one) and any pitfalls / tips, I would be most grateful. Many thanks, Ian Edited April 18, 2009 by boggie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NickMorgan Posted April 18, 2009 Report Share Posted April 18, 2009 Ian, I fitted a new loom to a TR3 I was restoring a few years ago. I found it quite easy, but I did start with an empty shell and fitted the loom before the seats, etc. Not that this should make any difference. I just layed the loom in the car and fed the wires to each component. I started at the back as that was easiest. I only had one real problem. The loom was for a slightly earlier model of TR3 and the wiper motor had a different number of terminals from the loom. That had me stumped for a while. Just take it slowly and follow the wiring diagram. My loom was from Autosparks. Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted April 18, 2009 Report Share Posted April 18, 2009 I have done a few. It's not all that hard. Take photos before you take out the old one. For examplle, does the wire go around the base posts for the wiper motor, or does it go directly there ? Which wire goes to which post on the coil ? Follow the diagram in all the books. When you place your order make sure you specify the model of TR and the Comm. No. as well. After TS 60000 the loom has push-on connectors and all TR2s, TR3s and TR3As up to TS 59000 had screw-on terminals and bullet push-on connectors. You want to make sure you get the right one. When I did mine, I laid it down in the front footwells and then fed what has to go through the firewall towards the front . As written abobe, the rear lays down easier. Just follow where the existing loom is going. And refer to those photos you took. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted April 18, 2009 Report Share Posted April 18, 2009 Ian You may already have this wiring diagram, but if not you may find it useful. Cheers Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 Hi Ian, two blokes, one weekend. Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve R Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 Hi Ian I got mine a few years back from http://www.thewiringharness.co.uk/ , cloth covered and at the time much cheaper than Moss, I also replaced the bullet sockets, it put an end to all those frustrating electrical niggles that crop up. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 There's a similar discussion going on, on the main page of the forum. It started with the question about adding relays. I think it's a good idea to add fuses and relays. There are a few addresses where to buy one. I got mine from Advance Auto Wire. But there are other sources. Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
angelfj Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 Hi all We are having some wiring issues with the car, for some reason the car is drawing current even when the ignition is switched off. If we connect the battery there is a flash / spark as the terminal connects, the ammeter measures -30A and the ignition light is illuminated. If we then turn the ignition switch on the ignition light extinguishes but the drain is still there. It seems that there is a current draw on the one of the two white wires (that goes to the starter button / ignition light etc) connected to terminal D on the regulator. After disconnecting the coil the two white wires from the regulator and the generator we managed to lose the large current draw but when connecting the battery cable we could hear the relay clicking inside the regulator. We are beginning to suspect a short somewhere in the loom (unless any of you guys know better). After wasting many hours scratching our heads it has got to the point where we need to find an auto electrician. As they charge around 50 pounds per hour we are considering fitting a new loom as Moss sell them for the equivalent of about 3 hours of auto elec time. This may not solve the issue but the wiring, especially on the rear of the dash, is pretty shoddy and old. Fitting a new loom would remove wiring from the equasion and as I have spent half a day sorting the engine bay loom and recon on at least another couple of days to sort the rest it may be quicker to replace the loom. Have any of you done this? If you could let me know how easy / hard it was to fit the new loom, where you got yours (assuming it was a good one) and any pitfalls / tips, I would be most grateful. Many thanks, Ian This is not too bad of a job. However, I am sure most folks agree that you do not want to have to repeat this process. I have done this once on the TR250 and I am about to do this on the 3A. The 3A, being a complete restoration, should be a bit easier because everything else is new. YesterdayI looked at the new loom that's been in storage fo a number of years. This is a cloth covered loom with pvc insulation wire, which is correct for my car. I notice that there are two types of bullet connectors, both of which are the crimp-on type. I am considering if soldering each bullet would be an improvement. I want to assure that the connection has the lowest possible resistance and is mechanically secure. Any thoughts on this? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 This is not too bad of a job. However, I am sure most folks agree that you do not want to have to repeat this process. I have done this once on the TR250 and I am about to do this on the 3A. The 3A, being a complete restoration, should be a bit easier because everything else is new. YesterdayI looked at the new loom that's been in storage fo a number of years. This is a cloth covered loom with pvc insulation wire, which is correct for my car. I notice that there are two types of bullet connectors, both of which are the crimp-on type. I am considering if soldering each bullet would be an improvement. I want to assure that the connection has the lowest possible resistance and is mechanically secure. Any thoughts on this? Frank I always solder my bullets on and use brass ones as they resist corrosion better.Also when fitting into connectors use a bit of hot glue as extra sealant. Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
angelfj Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 Frank I always solder my bullets on and use brass ones as they resist corrosion better.Also when fitting into connectors use a bit of hot glue as extra sealant.Stuart Stuart: The hot glue idea is very innovative. i shall try it. cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 Hi all We are having some wiring issues with the car, for some reason the car is drawing current even when the ignition is switched off. If we connect the battery there is a flash / spark as the terminal connects, the ammeter measures -30A and the ignition light is illuminated. If we then turn the ignition switch on the ignition light extinguishes but the drain is still there. It seems that there is a current draw on the one of the two white wires (that goes to the starter button / ignition light etc) connected to terminal D on the regulator. After disconnecting the coil the two white wires from the regulator and the generator we managed to lose the large current draw but when connecting the battery cable we could hear the relay clicking inside the regulator. We are beginning to suspect a short somewhere in the loom (unless any of you guys know better). After wasting many hours scratching our heads it has got to the point where we need to find an auto electrician. As they charge around 50 pounds per hour we are considering fitting a new loom as Moss sell them for the equivalent of about 3 hours of auto elec time. This may not solve the issue but the wiring, especially on the rear of the dash, is pretty shoddy and old. Fitting a new loom would remove wiring from the equasion and as I have spent half a day sorting the engine bay loom and recon on at least another couple of days to sort the rest it may be quicker to replace the loom. Have any of you done this? If you could let me know how easy / hard it was to fit the new loom, where you got yours (assuming it was a good one) and any pitfalls / tips, I would be most grateful. Many thanks, Ian I would fit a new loom first as last. The originals are well past there pensionable age by now! As stated make plenty of notes as to where everything goes and be careful with the screw type connectors on the light switch and similar, as if you do up the screws too tight then it is possible to cut through the wire and it will come out when refitting the centre instrument panel. When you are happy with the screw connections a drop of nail varnish (ooh ducky) on the screws will stop them coming loose in service.(especially usefull on the small screws on the ignition switch and starter button). Autosparks will add any additional extra circuits for about a tenner each over the cost of a standard loom. I have always been very impressed with their looms. Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boggie Posted April 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 Thanks all, very helpful and reassuring. My car has two differences to the original setup. These are: 1. An electric fan, now activated by a temp switch in the coolant downpipe directly behind the radiator on the nearside. This is suplimented by a manual activation switch on the far rh side of the dash next to the tachometer. 2. The car has been converted to rack and pinion steering so now has steering column mounted horn and indicator controls. I could buy the standard loom from the big M and add the extra wiring but have become concerned with the quailty of their stock. So I will contact both Autosparks and Wiring Harness Co. to quote me with the extras. Cheers, Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted April 20, 2009 Report Share Posted April 20, 2009 (edited) When I had my wiring harness re-covered by Rhode Island Wiring, I had them replace 3 or 4 wires which had cracked or brittle insulation and they were also pleased to add additional separate wires for me at my request for my 12" Kenlowe fan and also two spare wires where needed for some driving lights on the front and some back-up lights should I ever decide to mount some. These are not extra loose wires but they are "hidden" or wrapped inside the harness covering so that it looks very original. I'm sure that others may also add extra wires for you where you want them. Edited April 20, 2009 by Don Elliott Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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