woodward Posted November 27, 2008 Report Share Posted November 27, 2008 Hello Right, engine ready for starting, fuelled up and ready to go. The starter motor turned the engine, albeit slowly (may need a new battery) for several starts, although the engine hasn't started yet! Then on the next few starts the solenoid just clicked. And now the start motor "whirrs" but nothing happens. Any suggestions as to what this might be? I am fearing that I may need a new starter motor which will dash my hopes of getting it started this weekend... Thanks Myles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted November 27, 2008 Report Share Posted November 27, 2008 Right, engine ready for starting, fuelled up and ready to go. The starter motor turned the engine, albeit slowly (may need a new battery) for several starts, although the engine hasn't started yet! Then on the next few starts the solenoid just clicked. And now the start motor "whirrs" but nothing happens. Any suggestions as to what this might be? I am fearing that I may need a new starter motor which will dash my hopes of getting it started this weekend... I think my initial theory would be that the battery is flat... Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodri Posted November 27, 2008 Report Share Posted November 27, 2008 I agree with Ivor- also check the connections on each end of the battery leads and the engine to chassis lead behind the left hand engine mounting. Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wolfhound Posted November 27, 2008 Report Share Posted November 27, 2008 On mine the gear mechanism disintegrated completely, inside the bellhousing, so the motor turned but didn't turn the engine over. Is the starter motor turning at full speed or a slow wow..............wow..........wow Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted November 27, 2008 Report Share Posted November 27, 2008 And I agree with both of them - I think it's the same problem I had (Starter solenoid problem, Is there any way to test it?). Problem goes away when battery is recharged or weather warms up a little. New battery is awaiting collection but meanwhile I'm carrying a spare new solenoid and jump leads! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
woodward Posted November 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2008 It whirs as if it is spinning but not engaging the flywheel. I hooked up my starter pack and got the same response. I will check the connections tomorrow and see where we go from there. Thanks Myles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tthomson Posted November 28, 2008 Report Share Posted November 28, 2008 I totally agree with the battery being the most likely fault, but the Bendix gear on the starter motor can get clogged up with clutch dust and grease which can be a problem too. Easiest first step is to try a good battery and then if the problem persists look for other actions. TT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted November 28, 2008 Report Share Posted November 28, 2008 the Bendix gear on the starter motor can get clogged up with clutch dust and grease which can be a problem too. Yes. If you find this is the problem, don't grease the Bendix shaft, often the well intended application of grease lays the foundation of future problems. Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
woodward Posted November 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2008 Hello again Took the battery down to the local auto store and it checked out okay. Scraped away some more of the powder coat around the earth strap and tightened up the connections on the solenoid and battery. Starter turns over now and alot faster than before so looks good so thanks for the advice. Now, I have checked that the plugs are sparking and all okay there. On the fuel side, the glass bowl is full however I am not convinced that I am getting any fuel to the carbs. I have disconnected the fuel line and I would expect to get fuel pouring out when the engine is cranked but I get nothing. Should fuel be expected to pour out when the engine is cranked? If so, what should I check out before I remove the fuel pump? Thanks for your help - hopefully I'll get there in the end! Myles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
woodward Posted November 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2008 Managed to fix the fuel problem - the guy (i.e. me) that rebuilt the fuel pump hadn't done it properly such that the diaphragm wasn't moving. Dismantled and rebuilt it (with an extra twist) and now it works fine. Next step is to try to get the thing to run... Myles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted November 29, 2008 Report Share Posted November 29, 2008 ... the guy (i.e. me) that rebuilt the fuel pump hadn't done it properly At least it was a no-cost fix and you will never make that mistake again (but, from my experience, plenty of others). It's good that with these old cars we can dismantle parts and repair them and get satisfaction from having learned something and saved a little, compared with the expensive throwaway sealed untis on modern cars. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mandarawessels Posted November 29, 2008 Report Share Posted November 29, 2008 At least it was a no-cost fix and you will never make that mistake again (but, from my experience, plenty of others).It's good that with these old cars we can dismantle parts and repair them and get satisfaction from having learned something and saved a little, compared with the expensive throwaway sealed untis on modern cars. I second that and, unfortunately, it certainly does not only apply to cars!!! John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeF Posted November 30, 2008 Report Share Posted November 30, 2008 I second that and, unfortunately, it certainly does not only apply to cars!!!John. I agree that it would be good to be able to repair rather than replace, but most modern manufactures - particualrly electronics - are complex, integrated computer designs and built by robots/machines in high precision processes. They can not actually be made by hand, and therefore can not easily be repaired by hand. This is is contrast to our cars where they were hand assembled, and because of the low cost manufacturing processes, where only simple parts could be made and with wide tolerances. So hand repairs /remanufacturing is possible. For example from my field: a typical 1960s resistor would be about 0.4 -0.5" long and 0.2- 0.25" diameter with nice long leads to solder. It's modern descendant is 0.040x 020 x 0.020" or 020 x 0.010 x.010" both leadless with terminations on the body. The next generation now just coming in to use is 0.010x 0.005" !! The manufcturing process is such low csot taht it is its not economic to even troubleshoot a complex circuit to find a defective component. Having said that I have real difficulty equating the manufactured cost of automotive electronic s and components to their retail price! Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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