Jump to content

Weather proofing my car.


Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone,

 

This is a complete first for me, I have just bought a beautiful 1971 signal red TR6, my first TR which I confess I know little about. Not only that but I have never used a computer forum before in my life so I apologise in advance if I make any schoolboy errors. I have wanted a TR6 for many years and have been actively looking for about a year. The car is in fantastic nick and runs superbly, sounds amazing. looks great. basically everything I was after. It is a credit to its devoted previous owner who basically renewed and improved everything.

 

The car is rust free and I have no intention of running it in bad conditions but that doesn't mean I will never be cought out (especially in this country). The underside is untreated and because it has never been used in bad weather has not been undersealed or waxoyled as far as I can see. So starting with a totally solid but unprotected underside I would appreciate any advise on what products and processes to use to give it max protection. I am also considering investing in those plastic wheel arch protectors and would appreciate any info/advise you may have.

 

Many thanks

 

P.S i'm so excited cant wait for the sun to come out :-)

post-6539-1224515061_thumb.jpg

post-6539-1224515061_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forum Tim. ;)

Unlike some, this is a very "user friendly" forum & your first post looks like a very good attempt so don't be nervous about posting. Many different types of preventative measures you can take; the arch liners are quiet good but a tad expensive, I don’t have them. Might be a good idea to spray the inside of the chassis; I used Waxoil on the inside of my chassis but have since discovered that Dinitrol is probably a better performer; the exterior of my chassis was cold Zink galvanised after I’d restored it prior to being sprayed black. The underside of my body was seam sealed, stone chipped (Body Schutz) & then sprayed body colour. I’ve used nothing else on the underside as I wanted it to look natural & any spray on preventative quickly gets covered in a crust of dirt & crud & looks awful.

 

If you’re not planning to consciously use the car in wet weather (& I don’t), you probably won’t need to do anything more; depending on your age, it will probably outlast you.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Hi Everyone,

 

This is a complete first for me, I have just bought a beautiful 1971 signal red TR6, my first TR which I confess I know little about. Not only that but I have never used a computer forum before in my life so I apologise in advance if I make any schoolboy errors. I have wanted a TR6 for many years and have been actively looking for about a year. The car is in fantastic nick and runs superbly, sounds amazing. looks great. basically everything I was after. It is a credit to its devoted previous owner who basically renewed and improved everything.

 

The car is rust free and I have no intention of running it in bad conditions but that doesn't mean I will never be cought out (especially in this country). The underside is untreated and because it has never been used in bad weather has not been undersealed or waxoyled as far as I can see. So starting with a totally solid but unprotected underside I would appreciate any advise on what products and processes to use to give it max protection. I am also considering investing in those plastic wheel arch protectors and would appreciate any info/advise you may have.

 

Many thanks

 

P.S i'm so excited cant wait for the sun to come out :-)

 

 

 

Hi Tim (?) and welcome. You are doing good - first post with mixed case and an embedded image is a good start.. Nice looking TR6 btw, 71 was a great year.

 

 

So my personal preference is to use a wayoyl like product on any internal cavities but to derust and paint anything that I can see (eg frame and underside of the floor) with something industrial strength like POR-15. The theory is that it looks better and will not make a mess or hide rust the way that waxoyl/underseal does. I'm sure you will get several different opinions on this topic though.

 

I think the wheel arch inserts are a good idea as the upper sections of the front and rear wings are notorious for trapping mud and rotting out.

 

Stan

Link to post
Share on other sites
Hi Everyone,

 

This is a complete first for me, I have just bought a beautiful 1971 signal red TR6, my first TR which I confess I know little about. Not only that but I have never used a computer forum before in my life so I apologise in advance if I make any schoolboy errors. I have wanted a TR6 for many years and have been actively looking for about a year. The car is in fantastic nick and runs superbly, sounds amazing. looks great. basically everything I was after. It is a credit to its devoted previous owner who basically renewed and improved everything.

 

The car is rust free and I have no intention of running it in bad conditions but that doesn't mean I will never be cought out (especially in this country). The underside is untreated and because it has never been used in bad weather has not been undersealed or waxoyled as far as I can see. So starting with a totally solid but unprotected underside I would appreciate any advise on what products and processes to use to give it max protection. I am also considering investing in those plastic wheel arch protectors and would appreciate any info/advise you may have.

 

Many thanks

 

P.S i'm so excited cant wait for the sun to come out :-)

Hi Tim and welcome to the TR & TR6 fraternity.

 

I'd echo pretty much what others have said re- protection although I confess when it comes to the underside I tend to waxoyl everything in sight and all that is out off sight to the extent that I possibly can. My car had a pretty comprehensive rebuild in the early eighties and I'm simply following the discipline which started at that time; I'm pleased to say that 20+ years on its still "tank like" underneath.

 

My other motive in replying is to say that I know your car (and the former owner) and while its clearly unnecessary for me to say so, you've got a good 'un and I wish you many miles of happy TRing. If you have not already done so, join your local group (hope its Chilterns) where you'll find a warm welcome and like minded souls

 

Rog ;)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Tim

 

And a warm welcome to the forum... I am sure you will make many new friends, both in reality (in person that is) and on here in 'cyberspace'!

 

I have recently fitted the fibreglass wheel arch liners to my recently restored car - very easy to fit, and as stated above, protect the vulnerable top wing/inner wing join. They are also easy to remove to inspect /re-treat the newly 'hidden' areas... Whilst not perhaps intentionally going out in the worst of British weather, these were fitted so I can use the car!!! :P (though prefer to take it out in the 'dry' if at all possible.

They are expensive (for what they are), but think of the cost of repairing the area affected!!! Bit of a 'non-starter' really!!!

As I am away from home for around half of the year, I cannot necessarily enjoy it in sunshine! Any excuse for a blast!!!

 

Where in the UK are you?

 

Brgds

Edited by ianhoward
Link to post
Share on other sites

Tim

 

Hi & Welcome

 

Coming at your problem? from another angle. Where do you keep the car? If in a Motor House then probably no problem, but if in an unheated garage then do consider a de-humidifier which will dry out any water from anywhere in/on the car before it can start its oxidation activity.

 

I never cease to be amazed at how much my de-humidifier pulls out of the garage atmosphere. Humidity / condensation that would otherwise do untold damage.

 

Regards

 

Tim

Link to post
Share on other sites

Best option - move down under, hardly any rain, great roads, hardly any speed camers (in comparison with the UK which was almost a joke) and sun for most of the year.

 

You can use the money you'll save on wheel arch guards to help fund your immigration!!

 

Sorry - temptation got the better of me :lol:

Link to post
Share on other sites
Hi Tim and welcome to the TR & TR6 fraternity.

 

I'd echo pretty much what others have said re- protection although I confess when it comes to the underside I tend to waxoyl everything in sight and all that is out off sight to the extent that I possibly can. My car had a pretty comprehensive rebuild in the early eighties and I'm simply following the discipline which started at that time; I'm pleased to say that 20+ years on its still "tank like" underneath.

 

My other motive in replying is to say that I know your car (and the former owner) and while its clearly unnecessary for me to say so, you've got a good 'un and I wish you many miles of happy TRing. If you have not already done so, join your local group (hope its Chilterns) where you'll find a warm welcome and like minded souls

 

Rog ;)

Hi Rog

 

Many thanks for the response, this may turn out to be fun this forum stuff. Nice to hear you know my car. Bob the gent I bought her from was lovely and really helpful. I hope I can maintain the old girl to the same high standards. Sadly im in Cambridge and dont seem to have a group near me although I havnt had the register magazine yet to have a good look.

 

Regarding the rustproofing ive been given details of another waxoyl like product called DINITROL 3125 which is apparently even better. Do you know anything about it?

 

Cheers

 

Tim

Link to post
Share on other sites
Sadly im in Cambridge and dont seem to have a group near me although I havnt had the register magazine yet to have a good look.

 

Tim, the local groups are listed on the WOHFTB page http://www.tr-register.co.uk/group_details.htm

 

If you zoom in on the map it will eventually show you who is closest to you, some of the groups have a web page, all should have contact info.

 

Stan

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think notwithstanding the various wax based products around, the point is if everything is well sealed off and covered in something to protect it these cars are going to last a hell of a lot longer this time round (Probably outlasting their owners. :o ) than they ever did the first time round. If they had been built using the materials available today then I certainly would be out of a job!

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Sadly im in Cambridge and dont seem to have a group near me although I havnt had the register magazine yet to have a good look.

 

Tim

 

Hi Tim & welcome to the forum. Camb Followers are probably your local group. I had the privelege of going to Classic Le Mans with them this year and they are some of the nicest people I have met.

 

You can contact them through Peter Parkinson.

 

Good luck

 

Tony

Link to post
Share on other sites
Hi Tim & welcome to the forum. Camb Followers are probably your local group. I had the privelege of going to Classic Le Mans with them this year and they are some of the nicest people I have met.

 

You can contact them through Peter Parkinson.

 

Good luck

 

Tony

 

Thanks for identifying them Tony, there is no pin on the WOHFTB map for that group who apparently meet just north of the city of Cambridge in Wistow which according to google satellite is a very nice little town .

 

Stan

Link to post
Share on other sites

Many thanks to everyone for the welcome and all your advice on the weatherproofing, i am very grateful. I particularly liked the comment from Andy Smith that I should move down under where the sun shines and they are not so hung up on speed cameras. I will drop Peter Parkinson an email to make contact. So Thanks again

 

Cheers

 

Tim

Link to post
Share on other sites

Speed cameras - I think the Aussies invented the b....y things! :(

 

Agree entirely about the wheelarch liners, well worthwhile.

 

I use Dinitrol 3125 on my Landrover - it sticks well over clean metal and sound paint, but after a year it loses the battle with any pre-existing rust so I have doubts about its efficacy inside chassis members as they are bound to be rusty to some extent. I re-wax every year, mixing the wax with 10% steam cylinder oil for extra stickiness.

 

If your car is sound, it may be worth taking it here, this chap works on classics as well as Landys and I recall that some forum members have used him.

http://www.before-n-after.co.uk/

 

Ivor

Link to post
Share on other sites
Tim

 

Hi & Welcome

 

Coming at your problem? from another angle. Where do you keep the car? If in a Motor House then probably no problem, but if in an unheated garage then do consider a de-humidifier which will dry out any water from anywhere in/on the car before it can start its oxidation activity.

 

I never cease to be amazed at how much my de-humidifier pulls out of the garage atmosphere. Humidity / condensation that would otherwise do untold damage.

 

Regards

 

Tim

 

Hi... sadly my TR is under a cover outside. I hoped to get in a garage before winter but it's not happening yet... As for humidity I bought some of the cheap crystal based dehumidifiers and keep them in the cabin and boot.. They seem to keep it a bit fresher and they only cost a couple of quid.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.