Wolfrace Slot Mags

[EliTR6]

Hi,

 

Having an ebay day at work and I can't find what type of nut I need to order for my soon to be picked up Wolfies (15x6). What's the standard thread on the 6? Thanks!

 

Also, does anyone have a suggestion for cleaning up the aforementioned alloys? I can't really afford to get them done privately. Drill-mounted polisher anyone? I have to seal/coat them afterwards don't I? Thanks again.

 

Eli

Edited April 7, 2008 by EliTR6

[Richard Crawley]

Hi,

 

Having an ebay day at work and I can't find what type of nut I need to order for my soon to be picked up Wolfies (15x6). What's the standard thread on the 6?

Brown book says 7/16" UNF.

[EliTR6]

Brown book says 7/16" UNF.

 

Fantastic, ta! How about these? Ebay item no: 220219390568. Stainless would be better, will hunt around a bit more...

 

Will I need spacers or anything else? I thought it would be a straightforward bolt on jobby...

Edited April 7, 2008 by EliTR6

[Richard Crawley]

I personally don’t like spacers & won’t fit them; with just a little reworking I know you can get replica Minilites to fit without them but I’m not sure about Woolfies, it depends on the offset!

[EliTR6]

I personally don’t like spacers & won’t fit them; with just a little reworking I know you can get replica Minilites to fit without them but I’m not sure about Woolfies, it depends on the offset!

 

Thanks Richard

 

I'll hold off buying anything until I've picked up and tried fitting the wheels... Got the new exhaust to fit next month too, there goes all my hard-earned and free time!

 

Eli

[Tinman]

Hi Eli,

I run period wolfrace slot mags on my six I use 1/2 inch spacers front and 1/4 inch rear. The front spacer stop any contact of the tyres on the body work lock to lock!!!

As for polishing if yours are in a dull or bad condition when you get them start off with something like 1200 grit wet & dry and metal polish to break the oxidization and finish with auto sol metal polish to get the shine. I usually polish mine with auto sol and then use auto glym wax to stop any oxidization of the ally.

I had the wheel nuts made by a friend who owns a leathe Stainless steel hex bar machined, drilled and tapped.

The wheels look great but take some elbow grease to keep looking shiney

[jean]

As I mentioned in another topic, I use the original TR6 wheelnuts, but had them machined to fit the holes and compensate the spacers. I found that most wheelnuts coming with the alloy wheels are of rather poor quality.

At the occasion I would like to say, it's very important to tighten the nuts with a torque wrench, 80NM is the norm. I'm persuaded that most people will go quite a distance above 100NM

[Eyetee]

There was a local engineers advertising soda blasting for bike engine parts etc... upon mentioning this to a buddy he said just put them in the dishwasher

never tried this but his advice is normally mustard

 

due to size of wheels should imagine one at a time and careful with the rack, oh and best tyres removed first.

[JohnC]

There was a local engineers advertising soda blasting for bike engine parts etc... upon mentioning this to a buddy he said just put them in the dishwasher

never tried this but his advice is normally mustard

 

due to size of wheels should imagine one at a time and careful with the rack, oh and best tyres removed first.

Hmmm. When my wife put an aluminium ice-cream scoop into the dishwasher, it came out a dull, dark grey. I put it down to the detergent oxidising the aluminium. It scrubbed up OK, but that sounds like being back at square one. My suggestion is that you try just such an experiment before risking a wheel. A suitable experiment to test the risk to your marriage I leave up to you!

 

Cheers,

John

[EliTR6]

No dishwasher and no wife for me!

 

I'll revisit this when I pick up the wheels. Hopefully a day's polishing by hand will sort them out. If not, I'll have to look into getting it done professionally but it looks ridiculously expensive (£50 per wheel!).

 

Same goes for the spacers and nuts. Might just put some chrome plated ones on for summer while I try to get some proper stainless ones made.

 

Thanks for all the advice!

 

Eli

[TR 2100]

I'll have to look into getting it done professionally but it looks ridiculously expensive (£50 per wheel!).

 

That's only 1½ hours work at todays rates. You'll not get it done for much less.

OK, so they would come back looking even better than new - mirror finish, but

that's probably more than you want.

 

A bit of your own time will save you quite a few £sss and while they may not be

of quite the same standard as professionally finished wheels, they'll look great -

enough for the majority of owners.

Then of course, there's the satisfaction of doing it yourself.

 

AlanR

Edited April 8, 2008 by TR 2100

[Alec Pringle]

Hi Eli,

 

Forget the dishwasher, doesn't do the job I'm afraid.

 

Farecla cutting compound and fine wire wool is the quickest way to cut back grotty alloys, followed by T-cut on a cloth as a finer second cut.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

[EliTR6]

Thanks!

 

I would much rather do it myself if I can. Will look into buying some Farcela equipment at the end of the month.

 

Re: wheel nuts, has anyone had experience with the following company: http://www.speedshack.co.uk/Wheelnuts.htm? They're a little way away from me but should be an easy blast on a saturday morning. I need to find some ultra-tough nuts that won't perish outdoors as my current ones have (usual chrome plated **** from big TR supplier).

 

Eli

[88V8]

Re: wheel nuts, has anyone had experience with the following company: http://www.speedshack.co.uk/Wheelnuts.htm? They're a little way away from me but should be an easy blast on a saturday morning. I need to find some ultra-tough nuts that won't perish outdoors as my current ones have (usual chrome plated **** from big TR supplier).

 

They've been around a very long time.

If you ask whether they have nuts that won't rust (perhaps not those exact words) I'd expect you'll get an honest answer.

 

Ivor

[EliTR6]

They've been around a very long time.

If you ask whether they have nuts that won't rust (perhaps not those exact words) I'd expect you'll get an honest answer.

 

Ivor

 

Called, very helpful, will go round to see them to sort out what I need. Nothing is rustproof though, I'll need to source stainless items myself.

 

Eli

[EliTR6]

Please excuse my confusion and ignorance.

 

Need to order nuts for wheels asap.

 

Will try speedshack. Should asking for 7/16 UNF nuts for wolfrace alloys do the trick?

 

Will also get a pair of 1/8" spacers for the front, just in case.

 

Thanks!

 

Eli

[EliTR6]

Saw these on ebay: 220219390568. There are 2 different lengths!

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks!

[88V8]

Saw these on ebay: 220219390568. There are 2 different lengths!

 

Question is, are they drilled and threaded all the way down?

If so you could buy the longer ones and if they're too long cut the ends off and dip the cut bits in zinc paint to stop rusting.

 

Did Speed Shack not have any?

 

Ivor

Edited June 12, 2008 by 88V8

[a1topdog]

Speedshack have a good reputation. They should be able to sort you out.

 

Many years ago I wanted to fit Dolly Sprint wheels to my Herald Vitesse , but the Dolly Sprint Wheel nuts did not have the correct size thread. My father-in-law worked for an engineering firm and got an apprentice to make me up 16 nuts exactly the same shape as the dolly sprint ones with the correct thread. They were a work of art. After driving for a short while I noticed the wheels kept coming loose. It turned out the problem was the apprentice had made the nuts from brass , which was not a good idea. I can laugh now , but it could have been a whole different story had I actually lost a wheel!!