angelfj Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 The original hardtop I recently acquired for the 3A has a perspex rear lite. It is a bit foggy but I have been told this material can be restored or at least renewed for better transparency. I have heard everything from toothpaste to expensive commercial polishing kits. Any suggestions? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 Several years ago, Bob Reinholt of Laguna Hills, Calif. was selling these. He is an original owner of his 1959 TR3A (Calif. GIN 696) and had just finished the restoration of a Geranium TR2 with hardtop. He needed a new rear "lite" and had six made. Maybe he still has one. I know he was advertising them for the longest time. If you contact him, mention my name. In 2000, at VTR in Oregon he sold me his spare generator because mine had packed up. That got me home - a total of 7225 miles all told. Contact Bob at Tr3gin696 AT cox DOT net Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted June 9, 2007 Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 (edited) Hi Frank You could try a professional liquid cutting compound, I used Farecla G10 on the opaque windows of my soft top and they came up a treat. Failing that, Moss sell new backlites: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProduct...dexID=29159#top Cheers Andrew Edited June 9, 2007 by Andrew Smith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted June 9, 2007 Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 (edited) Moss sell new backlites: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProduct...dexID=29159#top Also available from Moss in UK Edited June 9, 2007 by BrianC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted June 9, 2007 Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 I have lost two rear windows which have sprung out at 60 mph. After the last time ,by good chance, there was amember who had a mould made and ran off aproduction run. I purchased one and it fitted very well. I also had some small clamps made up by a retored engineer in stainless steel and the window never jumps out now. I understand that the run of windows was all sold and that Moss bought the mould. If that wqas the case then the new windows cab be recommended as a good fit in my hardtop at least. Why does my spare wheel cover only fit well without the sealing rubber? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted June 9, 2007 Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 I had to carve about 1/8" to 1/4" off the back of the seal so the spare wheel cover door woud fit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted June 9, 2007 Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 Thank you very much I was getting worried that I had a problem with the bodywork.I have purchaseed some very thin foam strip and will try to make up my own seal. How did you seal the petrol filler when the original sealing ring had gone hard? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted June 10, 2007 Report Share Posted June 10, 2007 Richard - If you are referring to the short tube of 2" diameter rubber between the bottom of the filler cap and the top of the fuel tank, cut out the old one with a hacksaw and buy a new one. You may have to cut the new rubber piece a bit shorter and tip the tank a bit to get it on. Slide on the two large hose clamps before fitting the rubber tube into place. On TRs after TS60,000, it's a much easier job as they redesigned this for easier re-assembly. If you are referring to the fiber seal that goes under the outer part of the fuel filler cap, loosen it all up and smear some silicone caulking or gasket maker onto the fiber seal and re-assemble it. You could also install a new seal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted June 10, 2007 Report Share Posted June 10, 2007 Richard - If you are referring to the short tube of 2" diameter rubber between the bottom of the filler cap and the top of the fuel tank, cut out the old one with a hacksaw and buy a new one. You may have to cut the new rubber piece a bit shorter and tip the tank a bit to get it on. Slide on the two large hose clamps before fitting the rubber tube into place. On TRs after TS60,000, it's a much easier job as they redesigned this for easier re-assembly. If you are referring to the fiber seal that goes under the outer part of the fuel filler cap, loosen it all up and smear some silicone caulking or gasket maker onto the fiber seal and re-assemble it. You could also install a new seal. My fiber has broken up and gone hard.I was thinking of using a neat silicon ring and leaving it to dry for a few days. But if I make it too fat the filler cap will never close again.Are new seals available, I never though to ask Moss? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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