Petrol leaks

[Richardtr3a]

My 3a has the flexible petrol feed from the rigid pipe under the thermostat to the carbs. the brass banjo is proving very hard to seal. In order to go to Brooklands I used wellseal and it seems to work. While I was cleaning up, I used a petrol soaked rag to wipe my hands and the surplus wellseal came off really easily. Is there something else I can seal the fibre washers with.

 

What size spanner works on the dashpot lid. My metric and imperial spanners are loose. Is it Whitworth or a rogue size needing a special tool.

[Don Elliott]

Normally the fiber seals under the brass banjo fittings don't leak. If one is leaing change it for a new one. It may be that it's the brass flared joint sealing the end of the braided flexible hose that's leaking. If so you can use a small hose clamp. There are sealants that will stop leaks and are resistant to petrol. The one I have is called "Seal All".

 

http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/reviews/SealAllGlueReview.htm

 

I don't use a spanner on the brass hex nut for the damper rod on the top of my SU carbs. I use an adjustable wrench. Same for the nut that secures the top lid to the float bowl.

[jonlar]

Hi Richard, a lot of banjo joints have copper rather than fibre washers - fibre washers do disintegrate under too much pressure (torque,not fuel!).

[stuart]

My 3a has the flexible petrol feed from the rigid pipe under the thermostat to the carbs. the brass banjo is proving very hard to seal. In order to go to Brooklands I used wellseal and it seems to work. While I was cleaning up, I used a petrol soaked rag to wipe my hands and the surplus wellseal came off really easily. Is there something else I can seal the fibre washers with.

 

What size spanner works on the dashpot lid. My metric and imperial spanners are loose. Is it Whitworth or a rogue size needing a special tool.

Richard,

Dash pot dampers are 7/16" whitworth and the bolts on top of float chambers are 1/4" whitworth never use much force on them though.

Stuart.

[stuart]

Normally the fiber seals under the brass banjo fittings don't leak. If one is leaing change it for a new one. It may be that it's the brass flared joint sealing the end of the braided flexible hose that's leaking. If so you can use a small hose clamp. There are sealants that will stop leaks and are resistant to petrol. The one I have is called "Seal All".

 

http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/reviews/SealAllGlueReview.htm

 

I don't use a spanner on the brass hex nut for the damper rod on the top of my SU carbs. I use an adjustable wrench. Same for the nut that secures the top lid to the float bowl.

Don That seems like a really good glue but my only concern would be that if it is impervious to all those solvents how on earth would you get it off if you needed to!!

Stuart.

[Don Elliott]

I was on my way to the US National VTR event in 2000 when I could smell petrol. This was in Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming. I was convoying the 3400-mile trip with another TR3A when I noticed that my petrol stop-cock was leaking. My friend had some Seal All. I allowed the petrol to evaporate from the outer surfaces and dribbled and spread it onto the whole stop-cock. I coldn't use it but the Seal All worked fine. About 3 weeks later when I got home (7300 miles all told), I removed the stop-cock and all the Seal All had turned a dark brown and was very hard. I flaked it off in seconds, fixed the inner seal where it was leaking and as we say here in French Canada, "Voila".

[BrianC]

There are sealants that will stop leaks and are resistant to petrol. The one I have is called "Seal All".

 

http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/reviews/SealAllGlueReview.htm

This looks like a useful addition to the in-car toolkit. Pity it doesn't seem to be available in the UK (although there are different products with the same and/or similar names although not for the same purpose). Does anyone know of a similar product is available here or do we need to start importing it?

[Nigel Lay]

As Jon suggested I use copper washers. To make them nice and soft before using them suspend them on a bit of wire, heat them to cherry red and then plunge them (while still red) into water, this anneals copper perfectly. Any imperfections in the banjos are taken up by the soft copper. The copper will harden again very rapidly.

Nigel (with TS952)

[BrianC]

As Jon suggested I use copper washers. To make them nice and soft before using them suspend them on a bit of wire, heat them to cherry red and then plunge them (while still red) into water, this anneals copper perfectly. Any imperfections in the banjos are taken up by the soft copper. The copper will harden again very rapidly.

Nigel (with TS952)

That brings back some memories - the number of times I had to do this with the solid copper head gasket on my first motorised vehicle (Royal Enfield 250cc Crusader Sports). At least it was better than having to buy a new gasket every time the head had to come off. Pity the TRs don't use solid copper gaskets. Never thought of doing it with copper washers so will try that next time the need arises.

Edited April 24, 2007 by BrianC

[Richardtr3a]

Thanks for the help so far. Last night I fired up the engine in the garage while working on the back brakes still. Just to check that the petrol was OK I ran my hand under the banjo. Not only was it wet with petrol the securing nut was only hand tight.

 

My question is how can this be possible, when the nut was tightened using the correct socket and very firm pressure. The car has only been run in the gagage and has not been overheated or touched. This is the second time that this has happened. The first time I thought that I had missed a final turn of the spanner. But this time I know that it was really tight.

 

Unless there is a better answer I am going to use Loctite and try to find the correct copper washers. I will try Burlen unless any one else has a supplier of copper washers in London.

 

Richard

[vanflyer]

For some reason brass nuts and bolts have a propensity to loosen all on their own, I was told once it is diffential expansion compared to the other materials used in cars like steel petrol tanks and aluminium fuel pumps. There is a product available in the UK for sealing petrol and oil leaks, I still have half a tube. When I get home Iwill look it up. It is black goo in a toothpaste type tube that doesn't really set. i used it to seal the float bowls on a Honda motorbike as the gaskets were no longer available, worked like a charm. Orange Go Jo will get it off your hands but not your clothes. be warned, don't do repairs in a 3 piece suit.

[vanflyer]

The product I have used is called Permatex by Loctite, it is in a white tube, blue writing and an orange logo.

[Nigel Lay]

Thanks for that one (petrol sealer) must get a tube to go into the car toolbox.

Nigel (with TS952)

 

Just had a look at their website, they do an awful lot of sealers, is there any other info. on the tube

Edited May 4, 2007 by Nigel Lay