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About Edwin

  • Birthday 07/12/1973

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    Delfzijl, The Netherlands

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  1. Just checked compression and readings are exactly the same on all cylinders and I know it isn't a faulty plug because I changed the plugs a while back ago and no difference. But I also tested the plug leads with a multi meter and voila... plug lead on nr 6 is faulty. The connection of the wire at the plug end is loose so it sometimes makes contact and sometimes doesn't.... So I'll be ordering a new set of leads. Thanks !!!! Cheers, Edwin
  2. Indeed... it's on carbs and have checked the air flow on both carbs. They are perfectly synchronized both at idle and at about 2000 rpm. And it must be that the mixture in 6 is too rich. But i'm a bit puzzled as to how only number 6 is getting less air or too much fuel. If the setup of the rear carb would be different from the front carb shouldn't plugs 4, 5 and 6 show the same issue ?
  3. Hello, I'm not really having any issues with my TR6 other than the fact that the spark plug in cylinder 6 is rather black (dry). And this has been so for a couple of years. The engine has been fully rebuild and is fitted with 2 SU HS6 carbs (bought them new a couple of years ago) and 123-electronic ignition dizzy. Other than that it's a standard engine (US spec) Spark plug 1 through 4 are perfect (light brown). Number 5 is a bit darker an number 6 is quite black but dry. Plugs are NGK BP6ES. What could be the cause of this ? The car starts and runs very nice, doesn't burn oil and does about 24 MPG. Cheers, Edwin
  4. You could try this... : https://www.google.com/search?q=tr6+black+minilites&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=v2Q9U5TUAqqX1AWhi4HoCA&ved=0CCoQsAQ&biw=1600&bih=782 Cheers, Edwin
  5. Edwin

    New clutch

    Last year I put the (B&B no HK9649 clamping load 400dn) kit in my TR6 and have had no problems at all with it... have done about a 1000 miles now and very happy. Also replaced the fork, shaft (doubled the bushes) and the sleeve (standard type)... Pedal pressure is, in my opinion, not too light... but certainly not heavy.... feels almost like a modern car clutch... Cheers, Edwin
  6. I used these guys: http://www.123ignition-conversions.com/ You just send them your dizzy and get a converted one back (on exchange base). Took just 2 days after they received the payment. And mine does not have the USB option... Cheers, Edwin
  7. I struggled with this last year. The car would begin to feel unstable with speeds above 60 miles/hour... Had the wheels balanced two times but the problem stayed. The second time I was there when they balanced the wheels. After putting on a fair amount of weights the machine indicated it was perfect despite the fact that two of the wheels had a wobble of about 5 mm.... So not being happy with the car unstable at speed I decided to get some new wheels (minilites)... and the difference is enormous. The ride is much smoother... at every speed I doubt if a wobble of just just 1mm would be noticeable but 5mm is too much in my opinion .. Cheers, Edwin
  8. Then the info on a site I checked must be wrong. I ordered a whole bunch of UNF bolts a couple of years ago from them and they have a 3/16 UNF bolt listed, varying in length from 1/2" to 2".... But it must be UNC instead of UNF then... learning more everyday, thanks for the lesson Stuart..
  9. Just took out these screws from my 6 and they are indeed 3/16 UNF... which is about the same as 6/32... no. 72 on this page: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID006943 Cheers, Edwin
  10. Hi, I have fitted a 123-ignition about 2 years ago and it did make a big difference. But I think that's mostly because the old dizzy was badly worn... that's why I bought it. But it idles much smoother, acceleration is much better and the engine just seems to perform much more like it should. Price was about 350 euros and for that money you get a 123 unit fitted in a rebuild TR6 dizzy... so you keep the tacho drive. If you buy a new (and shiny) 123 system you will have to convert the tacho to an electronic version... But..... recently drove a TR6 with a rebuild dizzy with the good old points and it was pretty good. If you want originality stick with the points and have your dizzy rebuild... "distributor doctor" will do that for you... Cheers, Edwin
  11. Well.... the 'get you home' solution did not work... so yesterday I finally got the TR6 back at my home with the help of a car trailer... Took out the gearbox today (in little more than 2 hours) and found out that indeed the pin was broken but look at what happened to the fork no wonder Stuarts solution didn't work... So I'll be ordering some new parts tomorrow. Also took off the pressure plate and clutch disc. Here are some pictures of the pressure plate. Can someone tell me if this is an original borg & beck plate or something else and should I keep this?... I also measured the thickness of the clutch disc... it's 0,277".... is that still thick enough ??? As always: all comments more than welcome... Edwin
  12. Edwin

    Oil Pressure

    As an indication for my fully rebuild engine with now about a 1000 miles on it: pressure when hot at 2000 rpm is about 55 to 60 psi pressure when hot and idling at 900 rpm is about 40 psi Cheers, Edwin
  13. Thanks guys for the info... and yes Stuart, that might just be necessary because the car is parked at a friends house at the moment. Getting it home as soon as possible would be very nice because the next trip is already planned Saturday the 18th... another classic car tour... Thanks, Edwin
  14. Hi All, Yesterday was a brilliant day that ended not so great... took part in a very nice classic car event with a great tour in the north east of The Netherlands for about 125 miles. Sometimes during this trip I had a problem that the clutch did not release enough to be able to change gears... but a second press on the pedal took care of that. But on the last 15 miles on my way home all pedal pressure was gone and after stopping the car I discovered it had left a nice trail of clutch fluid on the street. The piston of the slave cylinder had been pushed out... not so nice of course. Is this a classic case of a broken clutch fork pin or could it be something else? Next week I will take out the gearbox to fix the problem. Is that a good time to replace other components just to be sure, and if so... what should I definitely replace? All comments are more than welcome. Cheers, Edwin
  15. Like Stuart mentioned: a 123 can be build into a (TR6) dizzy.... About a year ago I bought one from these guys: http://www.123ignition-conversions.com/ Don't know exactly what the price was but I think it was about € 320,- Cheers, Edwin
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