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    St.Ives, Cambridgeshire

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  1. Hi Neil, If you mean this bracket highlighted below, I always thought it is the rear support for the radio - most period radios have a stud on the back that you could fix this to stabilise. Ian
  2. Hi This is how I connected the front to a TR6 header rail. The pins are cut from 1/4" bolts and the grommets are normally used for the TR4/5 (and Minis amongst others) windscreen wiper motor mounting. Part number 17H5431. Ian
  3. Hi Andy, I have come to the same conclusion, Looking at the state of the existing part- 50 years and no rust proofing, I think it best.
  4. Hi Roger, Stuart, Thanks for the help. I will ring around and see if a good used part is a possibility.
  5. Hi All, I am in the process of stripping down a relatively sound TR250, but I have found one area of unexpected corrosion. It looks like the suspension bump stop box on the LH Rear wheelarch was not sealed well by the factory, water has got inside and see below. Checking the internet it seems this part is not available new. It looks straight forward to fabricate the box, but can anyone tell me if the heavy gauge lower closing panel should be dished upwards to better locate the bumpstop, or did it start off flat and became dished through hammering by the bumpstop over the years on the road? On my TR6 both are dished. Regards Ian p.s. If anyone knows if this part is available could you let me know.
  6. Thanks Stuart - I plan to replace with non setting sealant.
  7. Hi All, I just started to strip down my TR250 which, although it has been painted in the past (badly), appears to have never been apart before. On removal of the rear lights I found some tape similar to electric tape around the outer edge of the rear light apertures. Does anyone know if this was fitted by the factory and for what purpose/ to protect the paint on assembly maybe ? Regards Ian
  8. Hi Marco, I have a new B&B plate measures approx. 8.0mm. Regards Ian
  9. Hi These might help with detail at base of B post. Regards Ian
  10. Hi Mark It comes through the upper hole you have the clear pipe coming through in your picture. Ian
  11. Hi Tim, As you have seen you are not alone with this problem - here is a link to an earlier topic with a picture of an intact crank rear thrust face. Yours looks badly damaged, and with what appears as pieces broken out. The face at right angles to the main bearing face should also be flat. I would certainly look for replacement. All the best, Ian
  12. Hi Mark glovebox is outside , spire nuts on glovebox, self tappers through steel, only screw heads visible. Ian
  13. Hi Tim, you will need to take at least the rear main bearing cap off to see the thrust washer face on the crank, you may be fortunate but that sounds like a lot of movement. Hopefully the block and cap don’t look like this one. Ian
  14. These are the clips missing from the chassis picture, and used on TR5/6. Hold 1 x 5/16 fuel pipe and 2x 3/16 pipe. Available from Moss and others. Fixed by 2 x pop rivets. Regards Ian
  15. I had speedy cables make one up with a cable adjuster in place of the ferrule. Works a treat, no drilling or other mods to do. Ian
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