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    St.Ives, Cambridgeshire

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  1. Hi Tim, As you have seen you are not alone with this problem - here is a link to an earlier topic with a picture of an intact crank rear thrust face. Yours looks badly damaged, and with what appears as pieces broken out. The face at right angles to the main bearing face should also be flat. I would certainly look for replacement. All the best, Ian
  2. Hi Mark glovebox is outside , spire nuts on glovebox, self tappers through steel, only screw heads visible. Ian
  3. Hi Tim, you will need to take at least the rear main bearing cap off to see the thrust washer face on the crank, you may be fortunate but that sounds like a lot of movement. Hopefully the block and cap don’t look like this one. Ian
  4. These are the clips missing from the chassis picture, and used on TR5/6. Hold 1 x 5/16 fuel pipe and 2x 3/16 pipe. Available from Moss and others. Fixed by 2 x pop rivets. Regards Ian
  5. I had speedy cables make one up with a cable adjuster in place of the ferrule. Works a treat, no drilling or other mods to do. Ian
  6. Hi Mark, On my 1970 TR6 the route is bending up from main chassis leg to follow the back of the support for front diff bridge. Both high pressure supply and return are clipped at the point described in last post. Both pipes then take a 90degree bend backwards over the drive shaft, close to the car floor. At roughly the same point under the floor beneath the tank they join to the pipes coming out of the boot. High pressure via a male/male joiner to bent S shaped pipe coming from PRV. The return pipe has a section of rubber fuel hose as a joiner. Sorry I am not with the car at present or I would take a photo. I hope that helps Ian
  7. Hi Mark, Last fixing position to chassis is about half way up rear face of upright supporting front diff bridge. In front of driveshaft. You should find a small hole for fixing the clip. Clip is item 110 here, or you could use a small rubber lined P clip. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/fuel-system-tr5-tr6-to-c-cp50000.html A lot easier to sort without the body on! Ian
  8. Hi Tim, I have that TRR top with my car, which has Surrey, I can vouch that it will keep a torrential downpour out of the car after an experience at Malvern a few years back. The collected water would have been 6 inches deep. As you say the fit isn't perfect, but it has stopped some wet trousers. Ian
  9. Maybe of interest to someone. I have no connection to the sale / auction. http://www.angliacarauctions.co.uk/en/classic-auctions/latest-classic-car-catalogue/saturday-4th-november-2017/1977-triumph-tr7-fhc/
  10. Nice video. I found this too. LHP 289F featured in British movietone video about the show. From 4.00 mins. The passenger looks a little worried. https://youtu.be/VhtMKC5Zqcc
  11. Hi Alan, I had the same problem with some aftermarket halogen headlights - it seems they are thinner where the lens is joined to the rear section and so are not clamped securely by the original retaining ring. I found by chance that a shallower retaining ring was available for Minis in stainless. Not sure if available from TR suppliers, but I found at MiniSpares. Ian
  12. Hi Darren, AFAIK TR5 did not have a cowl originally but the TR250 had some side pieces fitted between radiator and front panel,but not a complete cowl. To add confusion I think the TR250 parts are shown in the original TR5 parts manual. I have seen the TR4 cowl modified and fitted on some cars. Regards Ian
  13. Hi Paul The round clamp in your photo supports a heater/blower ducting pipe and is fitted to the underside of the bulkhead clamp as you have placed it. The H shaped bracket only fits one way up when in place with the other adjacent parts as far as I remember, and I think this part is only on later cars with a steering lock. Regards Ian
  14. Hi Darren, Sorry, been away. Access will be much easier if you remove the pump. In my case, the sleeving over the connectors was quite rigid and held on with cable ties, you will struggle to see what you are doing under the wheelarch. Regards, Ian
  15. Hi Darren- just to add to the other comments re checking the electrical connections , I had cause to remove and check exactly the same pump set up on my 6 earlier this year. The connections to the pump itself were not good ( as supplied ) but we're not visible as they were inside tightly fixed sleeving. They were a push on type and not very secure. I would recommend checking these out. Ian
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