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    St.Ives, Cambridgeshire

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  1. Hi Paul congrats on finishing the car ( for now !) Now enjoy it. Regards Ian
  2. In the past I have successfully drilled and tapped the floor fixings out to 5/16 unf as a fix for this problem. The 1/4unf weld nuts on the chassis are over size, so you can get away with it. Regards Ian
  3. Here’s one I found a few years back; Regards Ian
  4. Hi Mick, Thanks for your comment- replacement is the plan and in progress. Regards Ian
  5. Latest; I have removed the driveshaft and hub and, apart from the rust marks seen above, I can feel no roughness in the bearing or other signs of failure. I have to say that the hub nut came undone too easily to have been at 120lbft, but the hub is not offering to fall off the taper. The exposed end of the taper/hub inner has some brown stained grease visible. I will make a more determined effort to remove the hub from taper at the weekend. Regards Ian
  6. Hi all, and Thankyou for your comments. I have just had a quick look - no sign of the rust coming from inside the drum. I will dismantle everything further this evening and report back. Regards Ian
  7. Hi, Yes the rust stains are my concern. I have owned the car for 30yrs and, although low mileage in this time and the wheels are off regularly for servicing etc., I have not noticed this before. I am not qualified to say if this is an early warning or not, but I don't want to find out whilst driving the car. Regards Ian
  8. I don’t think this looks good. No detectable play in the hub though. A new pair ordered. Ian
  9. Or KV, as this TR5. Ian
  10. Hi Mike, If you do find that the adaptor plate is warped or cracked, ORS do a strengthened replacement. Regards Ian
  11. Here you go; http://vitessesteve.blogspot.com/2017/07/triumph-tr6-triumph-repair-times.html?m=1
  12. Job done, so I thought I'd mention a few things that might help someone else with the same task: - to draw off the rear flange, the propshaft is in the way. It will not drop low enough due to the chassis. By removing the rear gearbox mounting bolts and the top 3 bellhousing studs (to just clear the bulkhead) the rear of the box can be jacked up high enough to tap the flange off. - an old, cut down clutch release brg carrier is just the right o/d, with a large washer and the flange nut to wind in the new rear seal. - a drilled bar bolted to the rear flange and braced to the floor
  13. Thanks for the info., Roger,James. I will give it a go. Ian
  14. Hi All, Has anyone successfully replaced this seal with the gearbox / overdrive still in the car ? It looks a bit marginal for space behind the prop drive flange to draw the flange back far enough, and based on a tightening torque of 110 lbf ft, it maybe a struggle to get the flange off anyway without a puller. Thanks in advance, Ian
  15. BRINDUS44

    Door Cards

    Hi Keith, These pictures may help. I replaced the the cardboard stiffeners at the top of the curtains with sections cut from plastic. As Stuart says the central section is "closed" by the curtain fixed to the bottom of the door glass. Regards Ian
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