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Everything posted by BRINDUS44

  1. Hi Nige, here the various parts if it helps. You can buy a special spanner to fit the drain plug from ORS and others. Regards Ian
  2. Sorry John- I must type faster!
  3. Hi Malcolm, you could try this chap - he seems to be remaking all the components. (No connection) All the best, Ian https://fredmillturnparts.com/parts-list-and-ordering/?fbclid=IwAR18wQ_hKEXBb_ux-Q7vDhjQ8NA4RXuqUVviI1FcrysRo3pv-rd8bwgy21o
  4. Hi Denis, As a reference for you I had my fresh rebuild, standard engine TR5 PI checked at last MOT in August and CO was measured 4.5%. I thought this might be too high and checked with Neil Ferguson who advised it was OK, but maybe top of the range. I also have a CP TR6 , checked at last MOT in November - it was 3.5%. Both run fine. I decided on an "if it ain't broke don't fix it" approach. Ian
  5. I recently had trouble starting my TR5 PI after maybe 6 weeks of being parked up. Fuel tank was low, but this has not normally been a problem. The engine would cough but not fire. I checked spark, battery, fuel pressure, injectors , compression, timing, etc ., before deciding to add a fresh gallon of fuel. After some cranking the car fired , would idle, but would not respond to the throttle. After sitting a few more minutes with pump running it started and normal behaviour returned. As the car usually starts well, even after the winter lay up, maybe today’s fuel is going off faster. I t
  6. Hi All, I came across this period photo on Flickr. Norwich dealership with TR5, reg looks like it ends "CL 444F". CL was a Norwich suffix. Regards Ian
  7. Hi Paul congrats on finishing the car ( for now !) Now enjoy it. Regards Ian
  8. In the past I have successfully drilled and tapped the floor fixings out to 5/16 unf as a fix for this problem. The 1/4unf weld nuts on the chassis are over size, so you can get away with it. Regards Ian
  9. Here’s one I found a few years back; Regards Ian
  10. Hi Mick, Thanks for your comment- replacement is the plan and in progress. Regards Ian
  11. Latest; I have removed the driveshaft and hub and, apart from the rust marks seen above, I can feel no roughness in the bearing or other signs of failure. I have to say that the hub nut came undone too easily to have been at 120lbft, but the hub is not offering to fall off the taper. The exposed end of the taper/hub inner has some brown stained grease visible. I will make a more determined effort to remove the hub from taper at the weekend. Regards Ian
  12. Hi all, and Thankyou for your comments. I have just had a quick look - no sign of the rust coming from inside the drum. I will dismantle everything further this evening and report back. Regards Ian
  13. Hi, Yes the rust stains are my concern. I have owned the car for 30yrs and, although low mileage in this time and the wheels are off regularly for servicing etc., I have not noticed this before. I am not qualified to say if this is an early warning or not, but I don't want to find out whilst driving the car. Regards Ian
  14. I don’t think this looks good. No detectable play in the hub though. A new pair ordered. Ian
  15. Hi Mike, If you do find that the adaptor plate is warped or cracked, ORS do a strengthened replacement. Regards Ian
  16. Here you go; http://vitessesteve.blogspot.com/2017/07/triumph-tr6-triumph-repair-times.html?m=1
  17. Job done, so I thought I'd mention a few things that might help someone else with the same task: - to draw off the rear flange, the propshaft is in the way. It will not drop low enough due to the chassis. By removing the rear gearbox mounting bolts and the top 3 bellhousing studs (to just clear the bulkhead) the rear of the box can be jacked up high enough to tap the flange off. - an old, cut down clutch release brg carrier is just the right o/d, with a large washer and the flange nut to wind in the new rear seal. - a drilled bar bolted to the rear flange and braced to the floor
  18. Thanks for the info., Roger,James. I will give it a go. Ian
  19. Hi All, Has anyone successfully replaced this seal with the gearbox / overdrive still in the car ? It looks a bit marginal for space behind the prop drive flange to draw the flange back far enough, and based on a tightening torque of 110 lbf ft, it maybe a struggle to get the flange off anyway without a puller. Thanks in advance, Ian
  20. BRINDUS44

    Door Cards

    Hi Keith, These pictures may help. I replaced the the cardboard stiffeners at the top of the curtains with sections cut from plastic. As Stuart says the central section is "closed" by the curtain fixed to the bottom of the door glass. Regards Ian
  21. Hi Tim, The PRV return fitting is 1/4BSP. The hose id of the return is 1/4”.
  22. In my experience of the Gates R14 hose it is not as elastic / flexible as the older spec hose , possibly due to the internal layers that give resistance to the emissions of ethanol containing fuels. As a result it would not be as accommodating of mismatches in pipe/hose dimensions. Why not give Carl at TR Trader a call, as he is now handling Malcolm’s PI kit ( still with a 12mm inlet pump ), and ask what he uses. Ian
  23. There is a past thread with the all the info somewhere - try a search via Google. One thing to note is that not all Bosch installations (Bosch pumps / filters) are the same. There are different variations of inlet /outlet fittings and diameters used. The Pump/PRV hose i.d. is 3/8" though. Ian
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