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Mike C

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Everything posted by Mike C

  1. I think the point is brake fluid needs to get a bit hotter than petrol before it boils.
  2. Could be a wise move. I'd be worried about bending a con rod with the rope trick-it's mechanically very similar to when a piston hydraulic locks with coolant after a head gasket leaks.
  3. Hard wiring all the dash instruments up to 1 or 2 multi pin plugs like in a modern car is the way to go. One of my long term projects also.
  4. No 2 and No 5 injectors were the bane of my PI system- those two injectors have check valves in the banjo bolts that can pick up crud and stick. If you've tried priming the line and it doesn't work you might have to remove the MU and have a look at the check valve.
  5. Mike C

    Safety First

    I fitted a similar panel made up of 0.9mm gal steel sheet, bolted in with rivnuts and sealed with Sikasil 670 Fire for the same reasons. Mine worked well in keeping the fumes out and seems to have stiffened up the body a fair bit. I was very uncomfortable with the thought of my aluminum splitting tank splitting in an accident and spraying petrol into the cockpit.
  6. If you want to minimize the work-check the switch and as much of the wiring as you can before deciding to remove the dash & instruments. Removing the instruments opens a can of worms with the old Lucas connectors in the instrument wiring. If you are replacing the instrument globes you will need to take the dash panel out- I've never been able to reliably replace the globes in the speedo and tacho with the instruments in place. And with LED's check everything works before you put the instruments back in - globe polarity etc.
  7. Maybe try spraying the knobs including their locking pins with WD40 through the straw that comes with the can and leave a while.
  8. OK you have an A type. Basically check the adjustment using a drill bit in the locking point on the other side of the operating shaft- see the Brown Bible & check you are getting an electrical signal to the solenoid with the gear selector in 2nd, 3rd and 4th, with the G/B interlocks preventing a signal in 1st and reverse. The wiring to the OD causes most A type problems- I fitted a Landrover "OD on" light to mine to confirm while driving that it's getting the electrical signal when it should.
  9. I use 195/65 Pirelli P6 Cinturato's for pretty much the same reasons. My tires reach their use by date before they physically wear out. And the Pirelli's provide pretty good performance with my suspension set up.
  10. My misunderstanding due to different terminology. I was under the impression stove enamelling was the vitreous enamel that was used to finish old stoves. I restored an antique stove a few years ago and the white vitreous enamel used to restore the original finish was applied at eye watering temperatures in an electric oven. The heat actually stress relieved and warped some components.
  11. My engine was bored to 2.7L when it was rebuilt 25 years ago. I was told that capacity was as far as you could safely go. Mine was fitted with Mazda pistons but I'd have to rat through the paperwork in another place to find out which model Mazda they were intended for.
  12. The local garage finished replacing my pinion shaft seal today. 1969 CP with type A overdrive. And, much as I wanted to avoid it, the diff had to come out.
  13. Most people would powder coat wheels these days. I'd be worried about heat distortion and chipping with traditional vitreous enamel.
  14. After years of problems with restarting engines after winter storage , I now use Stabil in everything laid up - TR, Holden, boat , mowers, chainsaw etc. Costs a bit in Australia but the engines restart when I need them.
  15. I've had quality problems with both. The new parts may look like the Triumph originals but lack subtleties that were known to the UK manufacturer's engineers from years of experience. Often you don't find this out until you put your new part into service. Experience has convinced me to use repaired original/NOS parts whenever possible. I dare say if you traced the origin of most new TR parts on the market they would come from the same Asian factories- not that I have anything against Asians, it's just that the companies that arrange for them to supply parts don't have the background
  16. Can you get 110 gram tubes of PBR red rubber grease in your area- that's what I use for rubber brake parts? I'd have a look in the Brown Bible or maybe Buckeye's guides for the seal.
  17. Mike C

    Door Card

    I'll give that a try. At the moment I'm running the handles without the springs-still a snug fit .
  18. Mike C

    Door Card

    You must have either original or good quality repro door handles. There were some repro's made 10-20 years ago that had the hole positioned too far up the shaft. They are almost impossible to fit with the spring and backing plate in position.
  19. Mike C

    Repair costs

    No worries, at least we know now. Just need a member who's had this job done recently on their J type O/D to respond.
  20. Mike C

    Repair costs

    For which seals- main gearlever or solenoid operating lever?
  21. Mike C

    Repair costs

    I did the O rings on my A type operating lever in situ- it was a simple job.
  22. When this happens and you have just stopped , does the clutch disengage?
  23. I assume you don't have a carb distributor with a vacuum line connected. I'd connect a vacuum gauge to the brake booster connection and check the vacuum is stable and falls when you open the throttle- no burn't valves etc. If the vacuum's stable and the timing's right you have a distributor problem
  24. Clean with contact cleaner then check with a multimeter. Some people might not agree, but if a switch sticks I lube it with silicon lubricant then confirm it's still working afterwards with the multimeter.
  25. +1-"Double check you removed the old one entirely", and check the thread engagement of the filter mounting nozzle- mine was made too short and blew a filter cartridge off on cold start.
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