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About BusheyTrader

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  • Cars Owned:
    1980 TR7V8 DHC, Mazda MX5 Mk3 Launch, Mini Cooper Spi home restoration

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  1. If it wasn’t for work commitments on that day……. Definitely not precious.
  2. The movement of the flaps is also reduced when the control levers become loose over the years. IIRC if you remove the cowling around the heater controls you may gain limited access to them without removing the whole dashboard. Tightening up the screw in the recess in the lever stops it slopping around on its axis and restores the full movement of the rod and flap. The heater unit is upside down in this photo
  3. Depends how “late” you’re talking about. Some articles have the last Rover V8 engines installed in Land Rover products up to 2005.
  4. Oops missed that….hidden by the impressive TR ownership history.
  5. I managed to get a couple of wedge keys cut at the local Timpson last year. One blank from the shop’s stock and the other from another down the road. Might be worth a try at a local branch…
  6. Sounds more like a post factory air bleed modification than a “bodge”
  7. I think you’re correct regarding the internal and external diameter of the spacers / sleeves. I’m unsure about their lengths but thought they were flush with the bushes, it was that many years ago… https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID006106
  8. Yes, I use the accelerator pump to squirt fuel straight in to the inlet manifold before turning the key for an immediate cold start. I don’t have to apply the choke to keep the RV8 from dying at idle or low revs until it’s warmed up. With the 2.0L engine on twin SU’s back in the day, I found the choke necessary to fire up from cold and also prevent it from dying at idle until warmed up.
  9. Just adding to the comment about RV8s not being dependant on the choke to start from cold.
  10. I don’t use the choke on myHolley equipped V8, nor do some pals with Edelbrock carbs. on mine, once I’ve primed the carb with a few strokes of the accelerator pedal it starts first time.
  11. Yes I replaced the bushes with poly items several years ago like this, if I remember correctly. car up on axle stands, remove / drop the propshaft, remove the gearbox rear mount assembly and lower the rear of the gearbox on another axle stand to make room. Prepare to scrape all your knuckles and swear a lot because there isn’t much room for fingers let alone a mixture of thin spanners and thin sockets. Be careful not to disengage the gearstick from the ball joint shaft in the remote housing, as that brings more pain.
  12. Have you tried the V8 forum? https://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/index.php
  13. Hi Propshaft, Hopefully this photo answers your question. IIRC the thick washer / spacer is between the rubber mount and the gearbox above it. It’s been a few years and several thousand miles since I fitted the Volvo mount in preference to the poor aftermarket item. I was working on the remote housing above and took this photo. The propshaft is a shortened V8 SD1 item. (Edited to include it’s a SD1 prop)
  14. Maybe I haven’t described my point clearly enough here Rob. This local road contains a Primary School and has mild speed humps and no one speeds up between them. As far as I’m aware it was the noise of the V8 that this person found objectionable, not the traffic calming measures….
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