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JDC_747

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    29
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  • Location
    God's Own County
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4, MG Midget (currently undergoing another resto), classic Mini Cooper (sadly just been sold, Mrs C saying I have too many cars, projects, hobbies, activities etc, even for a Man Of Leisure), boring but comfy Audi A4 Avant for the dogs

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  1. Hi Malbaby Yes, of course I will, when the weather calms down enough for me to go out finish the job. It might even be of some use to someone with a similar problem. Cheers Jeremy
  2. Hi Malbaby If you consider the rear fixings as exactly that - fixed - then by adjusting the point at which the seat rail ratchets engage, it is possible to realign whilst remaining with the rear fixed, crabbing the seat sideways for want of a better phrase. This essentially shifts the front squab be closer to the tunnel, but still allows the seat to clear the B pillar when moved rearwards. It's not a great amount of lateral movement but enough for me to get the position relative to the steering wheel that I wanted, and the seat is flat and moves smoothly back & forth. Does require new
  3. Hi all Thankyou for all the help and advice, it's invaluable, shows what a brilliant forum this is. After some more trial fitting and finger-crushing, I now have a plan, involving the 2 rear original fittings and some nylocs and 4mm spreader plates. The big thing for me was to have the driver's seat as 'square' to the steering wheel as possible, to minimise the left-hand offset. A slight realignment of the rachets on the runners has allowed this, keeping the seat squab nicely against the tunnel. Spacers on the front and none on the back give an ideal rake and just keep the top of my
  4. Hi Nick Thanks for the reply, yes that's what I'll be doing. Can use the rear 2 captive nuts thankfully. Hi Stuart Yes, agreed, massively unsafe to use them so already off, also gives a better fit re: tunnel. Thanks chaps. Jeremy
  5. A detailed reply, thanks Malbaby. Yes, Carl's view was that outside spacing should be 360mm as you say. I believe this would then align bracket studs with runner holes. I have 4mm spreader plates and appropriate bolts etc, so I suspect I'll drill the floor to match. Ta, JDC.
  6. Hi all I'm fitting mk2 MX5 seats using the TRTrader brackets. The captive nuts on my 1965 TR4 have what seems to be somewhat unusual spacings - see pics. Should be 36cm outboard measurements apparently. Carl has very kindly offered to reverse engineer the brackets, free of charge, rather than have me drill new holes in the tinfoil floorpan. Still, I'm wondering what is different on mine, having checked underneath I can see no sign of nuts or plates being moved/replaced on my floor. Can anyone shed some light please? thanks Jeremy P.S. seats were originally sh*te brown,
  7. Quick post to say I had an excellent customer experience with these chaps, v helpful. Last minute change of plan with my seats etc and they were first class about it. JDC
  8. 1 year later...but better late than never.
  9. Hi all Received one of these class bits of engineering today, fits like a glove. Would definitely recommend. Jeremy
  10. Hi Stuart, once again great advice, back to 4 BTDC and temp now comfortably where it was before - thankyou. Hi Phil, having read a few posts, the bypass restriction seems a good idea. I plan to use a couple of inches of smaller diameter hose in the bypass but what worked for you? Jeremy
  11. Thanks for the quick reply Stuart, I'll put it back to 4 BTDC. Jeremy
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