TR6_PI_1969
-
Content Count
80 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by TR6_PI_1969
-
-
55 minutes ago, reginald said:
Hello
The later arms had a bigger Webb on the shock absorber mount not sure what year it came in
Richard
Hello Richard,
Thanks for your message. Both arms on my 69 car are early arms (on pictures). The third picture showing early / late arms differences was posted by Derek Graham in another discussion.
William
-
Hello everyone,
I wake up this discussion on trailing arms.I noticed that my rear trailing-arms are both early types but the rear right is dated 15.5.69 whereas the rear left has no date, only 3 numbers 1 3 3 (see pictures).
Is there any known geometry difference between original (15.5.69) and replacement (1 3 3)?
I have, like some other owners, rear left positive camber (around 1 deg) whereas rear right is approx -0,5deg...
Many thanks and take care!
William
-
17 minutes ago, Peter Douglas Winn said:
As I hear very badly I cannot say if the G/B is niosy. I can hear things wirring. I thought I could hear a light whine in 1,2,3 Gears.
Hi,
Is your noise that loud? Refer to video in the very first post in this topic: (mine solved since, with gearbox overhaul)
-
On 9/8/2020 at 6:11 PM, Phil Read said:
If it is quiet in top gear its the layshaft bearings.
After opening, the issue is indeed the layshaft needdle bearing
-
2 hours ago, Phil Read said:
If it is quiet in top gear its the layshaft bearings.
Hi Phil,
Thanks for your message, yes I confirm, quite in 4th. I have not driven the car since, I have appointment for next week, I will do 1km to reach the workshop.
-
On 8/31/2020 at 6:35 PM, SpitFireSIX said:
Don't be a muppet and hold phone while driving.
Who was holding the phone?
Yes indeed I was a muppet... This sound was not continuous, after a few miles on the way home it disappeared, and nobody believed me when I said there was a strange noise... so I decided to record it by myself... dangerous though I agree
-
3 hours ago, Bill944T said:
Running well with no fuel on the gauge though!!!
Regards
Bill
I had lot of fuel in the tank believe me. My gauge has stopped working recently after a drain of the tank, I guess it's the sensor in the tank, will be cheked in September.
-
Thanks for your answers, I have just showed the video to my mechanic, same reaction... Answers will be more accurate on September 17th 18th when I bring the car to the workshop. I will keep you updated!
@Drewmotty the car was reversed when the overdrive lever was slightly engaged, yes, 3 times on a few meters. There's however a inhibitor switch which prevents the overdrive to be engaged even if the lever next to the steering-wheel is activated, isn't it? Again, this lever next to steering-wheel was partially on during 5 miles BY MISTAKE, I don't know yet when my finger touched it...
William
-
Hello everyone,
Here's the strange noise happening today on 1st 2nd and 3rd gears on my 69 TR6 PI. Overdrive car. The 2nd gear disengages sometimes. On 4th I heard a ' clong ' at one moment and then, no more noise on 1st 2nd and 3rd... any idea? Clutch and gearbox overhaul some 2000km ago. One month ago I had a big noise in transmission, I think it was my fault, I noticed too late (after 5 miles) that my overdrive lever was very slightly engaged! without notifying it... :-/
-
Hi, could this be of any help?
-
It was on a voluntary base, sorry, for mistake, no It'seems
-
4 hours ago, Kiwifrog said:
Normally in France you are only obliged to pass a pollution test in a petrol car if it was registered after the first of octobe 1972
Peu importe le carburant consommé, le contrôle anti-pollution concerne :
Les voitures à essence mises en circulation à partir du 01/10/1972,
Les véhicules diesel mis en circulation à partir du 01/01/80.
cheers
Alan
Correct. My car being a 69 model year, it doesn't need the pollution test. I asked for the test on purpose, separately from MOT. It'seems on a voluntary base, I was curious.
-
Better with the picture!
-
Hi,
I was reading your topic, are you sure that the MOT gives you the 'raw' CO value? ... Because there's also sth called the corrected CO value, CO C on the picture attached, which takes into account the CO2 value. The formula should be : CO C = CO * (15/(CO+CO2)). If you make the calculation with my values, you will indeed find 4.82 for CO C. The picture is from my PI car, but a long time ago. From what I understand, it takes into account the possible air dilution in the exhaust line (e.g. a hole in the line).
Thanks for your feedback !
-
17 hours ago, Waldi said:
Hi Keith,
The new pump I Bought from Wittor is marked with Cast letters powertune, the old pump only had a date and follow-number stamped: 26 10 77 MM
So it is probably a later pump. It had the round filter.Waldi
Mine is stamped 7 12 78 A1, with the 'not-correct' round filter for an early car (1969, cf this week's posts and my previous picture). @Waldi Does the marking on your oil pump look like the one on the attached picture to this message? @Keith66 Moss catalogue says the square filter goes until TR6 CP53747... Can anyone confirm?
-
13 hours ago, Waldi said:
The oil pressure in the gallery is also lubricating the bushing and drive gear for the ignition/cam shaft. With a larger clearance in the bushing more oil is lost there. My new shaft measured around 0.1 mm thinner than the old one. Not overly concernable, but avoidable when proper tolerances were maintained when fabricating the new shaft.
The shaft being shorter is a bigger (potential) issue because there is less engagement.
Waldi
Thanks for the infos :-)
-
3 hours ago, Waldi said:
William,
I have the same from Wittor, It is recommended on here.
Not sure if rhe other suppliers supply a different one though.
It was “acceptable” for me but certainly not good:
1) The filter is not as good as the original, which is better quality. Poor replication.
2) The thread of the filterpipe is different, so I could not install my original filter.
3) The bolts have a 10 mm head, original 1/4” Standard.
4) The drive shaft was a couple of mm shorter, so less “bearing” In the drive gear
5) The drive shaft was slightly thinner diameter, which implies more oil loss from the gallery.
5) The tolerances were all within spec.
If you can fit the new rotor in your existing casing that is worth considering. Check dimensions / tolerances off course.
So it is ok-ish but not good (my opinion off course)Waldi
Thanks for these infos Waldi. Well, this replacement is not that simple, from what I understand. Good point for the tolerances, however. "Oil loss from the gallery": what is it exactly? How does it manifest? Thanks!
-
Thanks for your comments !
6 minutes ago, ntc said:That is also not the correct filter as pointed out above, for an early car.
Yes, the correct oil pump should be the alloy version as far as I understand, with a different shape and with the square filter, right? And I have also heard about a cast iron pump no longer produced... Mine on the picture is the aluminium version, right?
-
Hello, I am also looking for a good oil pump refurbishment, not in a hurry though. It seems that Chris Witor is the best. I have heard of some issues with big suppliers' pumps, especially some cases of broken bolts. Any feedback on this issue?
In case of aluminium pump, like mine (picture from 2018), I was strongly advised to keep my old pump body and change only rotor-stator assembly.
Thanks for your comments !
William
-
On 3/4/2020 at 10:39 PM, iani said:
Does this look like the correct gear knob for an early '69 car William? I bought it as being for an early CP but I've also seen mention of them having a round ball type one, I have both so no issue for me.
@iani This is another example of the correct early gear knob I believe, this one on CP25616.
Regards, William
-
5 hours ago, astontr6 said:
The seals must be made from Viton B grade and not A as this grade is not much better than the original Nitrile rubber. B grade Viton can cope with 15% ethanol.
Bruce.
Ok thanks! I'll pay attention to it.
-
The large Oring was provided by KMI to my knowledge, must be Viton. Pedestal seals, I hope they are Viton too! When the MU is removed, these 2 lip seals HAVE to be touched or not?
-
Hi, I will probably have to replace my braided injector lines soon or later, by black nylon ones. For this operation, do I need:
- new banjo bolts for outlets 2 & 5? Or keeping the actual ones is OK (they were changed 2 years ago, as the MU)?
- 2 new pedestal seals (cf attached picture, parts 103 & 104) or doesn't need to touch these? Also 2 years old only.
I will change the MU housing oring (part 116 on the picture). Something else to change if the aim is to change injector hoses only?
Thanks
-
Thanks! Ride-height looks good... your tyres are 165/80 or 185/70 15 right?
tr6 trailing arm question
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hello Roger,
Thanks for your message. My offside having positive camber, could a weakened spring be the origin? Can you confirm? I would have thought that a weakened and shortened spring would give more negative camber.
But if you are sure about it, well that confirms my wish concerning rear springs refurbishment.
I do have too much space between top of rear tyres and wheel arch lip (4 fingers moving easily, 165 hr15 tyres). One year ago, wheel center - wheel arch lip distance was 40.5cm offside (rear left with positive camber) and 41.5cm nearside (rear right with negative camber).
Thanks for your feedback,
William