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DavidTR4A

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About DavidTR4A

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  1. Thanks Chaps, I actually had a closer look today and can see there is a screw which has come undone slightly and is interfering with the magnet. Booking in for a refurb. Cheers
  2. Evening Folks, Speedo fail #1 - couple of years back - quickly narrowed to angle drive with your help Folks - angle drive replaces and gearbox tunnel access panel added for good measure - happy. Speedo fail #2 - couple of days back . Sudden large fluctuations in the needle (up and down between 20 and 60) with a slight but terminal sounding mechanical noise - a couple of seconds later and it froze at 40 before then dropping to zero. The cable square end driver thing is turning when running and cannot be stopped by hand (so not a fail #1). I have whipped the instrument out and go
  3. Many thanks Roger, yes the B post has a seat belt attachment. I'll give the trailing arm a go and get that better look - at the moment with just poking around all the rest looks pretty solid so fingers crossed. cheers
  4. Hi Folks, I was doing a bit of tidying-up underneath today - somehow a postponed activity from autumn 19.... Anyway, all was in pretty good shape but then i did some brushing on a suspicious area near the left trailing arm. The picture shows what happened next. So that's perforations to the right of the trailing arm nut, where the floor pan turns down at the inner sill(?). To the left of the trailing arm nut it's fresh air about 1cm wide ad 3cm long. Frustratingly the trailing arm bolt heads both point at the diff and so i cannot drop the arm easily for better access. It feel
  5. Thanks for the advice everyone. I will defo go for something more robust - like the use of spire clips. If I do well I might post some pictures. If i don't post any pictures, well... cheers David
  6. Hello experts! My speedo stopped working last season... The speedo end of the cable was spinning alright but could be stopped by pinching with fingers and so I was looking towards the angle drive (thanks to archive forum post from RogerH). Anyway, I removed the one-piece tunnel today and discovered that the gearbox-facing bayonet fitting on the angle drive was 2 threads/turns loose. All tightened up now and reckon that will be it - any thoughts in advance of my 2 month wait for dry and salt-free roads?? Hopefully I will avoid the need to buy a new smiths angle drive. Also going
  7. Evening all, I have a pair of HS6 that id like to fit to my 1965 TR4A (vice Strombergs). The carbs are Aud678s from a 2500 TC and have the breather pipe, unlike the tr4a standard HS6. Just wondered if anyone had experience of fitting such and had any tips? Correct needles aside, the rocker cover breather already feeds the manifold so I planned to just cap the breather inlets on the carbs, but i suspect it might not be that simple?? Thanks for any advice. David
  8. Quick test drive tonight and the OD stays in if I hold it in gear. Thanks Drewmotty. Think I'll have to adjust spacing on the isolator? cheers
  9. Thanks very much for the advice everyone. I will take a look at that isolator switch. cheers David
  10. Hi All, I have a dicky overdrive. From the plethora of gearbox and OD articles online, I think I know the problem but thought it would be worth posting...very grateful for any input. The set-up is a TR4A gearbox with Type-A OD from a Vanguard. The oil is Hyp-90 and the level is good (fill to spill). The OD drops out, but only in after a period of time running (20 mins+) and only on braking or downhill... and this has led me to a conclusion around the Hyp-90 and scavenging/pumping when warmed-up. I'm looking to change to SAE40 and the article in the latest TRAction (304) has given me
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