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Rockie51

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About Rockie51

  • Birthday 10/23/1945

Profile Information

  • Location
    Melbourne Australia
  • Cars Owned:
    66 TR4A
    09 Peugeot 407 V6 diesel Coupe
    11 Peugeot 308 HDI
    70 Hodaka Ace 100B motorcycle

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  1. I have mentioned a couple of times on the Register my theory that some of the stub axle failures are due to sagged springs and consequent bottoming. When the bump stop is compressed all of the impact is taken by the stub axle. Triumph fitted heavier springs to TR5s and TR6s, lessening the problem. While the larger number of failures on 4As may be due to age, it could also be due to the softer springs. I have GoodParts 470lb springs on the back of my 4A with Koni telescopics. It rarely bottoms. When I bought it 26 years ago it had worn driveshafts so I replaced them with CV ones with better hub
  2. I had the petrol smell problem in the boot of my 4A. As there are no fuel pump components in the boot like the TR6, I fairly quickly identified the problem as the filler hose. Replaced that and the smell disappeared. And yes, you can replace it without removing the tank. Seeing the Mackay Rubber brand reminds me - some years ago, I ordered a set of radiator hoses from one of the UK TR specialists. When they arrived, they had the Mackay brand and Made in Australia stickers on them. They were made a few miles up the road…….
  3. Gary, I would fit your electric fan behind the radiator not in front. That gives the maximum cooling. When I fitted mine, I had the radiator rebuilt with a sensor from a Mitsubishi Magna brazed into the top tank. It has been totally reliable and is much more leak proof than the ones fitted into the radiator hose. On one of our cross Australia trips we arrived at Kalgoorlie in 38c heat. The occupants overheated but not the car. Also make sure that your radiator shroud is fitted and in good condition.
  4. When I rebuilt the 4A I had the brakes rebuilt with vented discs from a Peugeot machined to 21mm. The TR calipers had spacers installed to suit. I was never very happy with them as the brake company used the original bolts despite the greater thickness. I bought the Goodparts Willwood conversion with 1.62” pistons which give about 15% more piston area. The car has a TR6 dual circuit booster. This also reduced the unsprung weight by 2kg per wheel. This was also part of an obsession to reduce the weight of the car rather than having to reduce my own weight! An alloy water pump and hous
  5. I run 185/80x15 or 195/65 on 6” alloys on my 4A depending on the length of the trip. The 185s have been used on the 3 Melbourne to Perth trips (3500km) as they give a 7% increase in gearing. I have a 165/80x15 spare which I keep inflated to 35lb. It is identical in circumference to the 195s but not the 185s obviously. I only ever intend using it to get to the next tyre store although that could be quite a distance on the Nullarbor! It fits easily under the tank and gives a flat boot floor. One small but crucial point is that the steel spare and the alloy wheels have very different nuts. I c
  6. It sounds like you had either worn out springs or ones that were inappropriate for road use. 1” clearance between the tyre and the bodywork is far too small and would lead to frequent bottoming and inadequate ground clearance as well as problems with the tyres hitting the body. You might like the look of the car lowered like that but you will have to accept the downside. My 4A has TT4001 springs on the front which have a 390lb/in rate and standard height. I have a clearance of 60mm or about 2 3/8” with 185/80 tyres. I would leave the front as it is and level it up at the back. It will still
  7. I normally run 195/65 Michelins on my 4A with a 3.7 diff. That gives the same rolling radius as the 165/80 which are prohibitively expensive here. I changed to 185/80x15 Hankooks for our 8500km trip across the Nullarbor to Perth. They gave a 7% increase in gearing and a little more ground clearance. I have a 165 as a spare on a 4” rim so I don’t have a step in the boot.
  8. It was the early Mk 1 MX5 seats that were one piece and the later ones had the seperate headrests.. Some of the early ones (like mine) had speakers in the headrests which makes it a bit easier to hear over all the other noises. It also means that you do not have to cut holes in the doors or kick panels. I re-trimmed mine in leather with a kit from the Car Trimmers in the UK. Don’t think they are around any more but there are others on the internet. Easy to do with a pair of hog ring pliers.
  9. Jerry By fitting an anti roll bar, you are increasing the single wheel spring rate. When the wheel hits a bump, it is compressing the spring at the wheel and also partially compressing the spring on the other side through the ARB, thus negating the effect of softer springs.It is only in pitch, ie when both wheels move at the same time, that the ARB has no effect. Following Mick’s philosophy, I fitted higher rate springs front and rear but no roll bars. Most of my driving has been on long trips with full tank, full luggage behind the seats, two people and a full boot, so the ride is very g
  10. I had Koni shocks on my 1988 Commodore Turbo. They were still in excellent condition when I sold it after 250000km. So I fitted Konis to the replacement 1995 V8 Commodore when it had done 100000km on the original factory shocks. I sold it last month with 315000km and again still in perfect condition. I have telescopic Konis front and rear on the 4A. I think that good quality shock absorbers are at least as important as the springs.
  11. Rockie51

    Suspension

    Ernest If you have a smaller gap between the wheel and the wheel well, you also have less wheel travel so it is likely that you are hitting the bump stops more often which would increase the rattles. Mine measures 380mm or 15” from the wheel centre to the wheel well front and back. I recall a figure of 27” from ground to wheel well as being standard. You should also check that the measurements match from side to side. Good luck Barrie
  12. Rockie51

    Suspension

    Ernest, there are many things that can contribute to a harsh ride. Tyre size and pressures can make a difference. My 4A rides better on 185/80 tyres than on 195/65s. Probably too late for you but when my car was rebuilt, the body guy did some judicious seam welding and we put a solid bulkhead between the cabin and the fuel tank. This stiffened the body and eliminated scuttle shake. I used Super Pro bushes all round. I have telescopic shocks on the back and used Konis all round. I have 390lb springs in the front and 470lb ones on the back. I would start with the bushes, tighten everything
  13. I fitted intermittent wipers and hazard flashers to my 4A from Retronics Ltd. Both work well and their support is excellent. Available direct or through Revington I think. I managed to make a bracket which allowed me to use the knob and mounting for the wipers in place of the useless lighting rheostat (top left) and I drilled out a spare TR knob for the hazard flashers (bottom centre) so all appears approximately normal. I added two switches to the bottom row. One is the hazards and the other is the spotlights when they get mounted.
  14. David I used the TR6 bottle and pump on my 4A to get bigger capacity. I used a TR heater switch with the original washer knob to hook it up. So the dash looks original but I have electric washers. Job done.
  15. Malcolm, my distributor was rebuilt by Vic at Ignition Developments in Frankston using Bosch parts from a Mitsubishi Magna. It is a Hall effect system and parts are available from Repco etc. It has been very reliable and has done about 30k miles so far in all conditions. The car starts and runs very well and I do not have to reset points. Unfortunately, he has now retired. I wonder if a good quality auto electrician could do the same for you. I had a Lumenition system on my Citroen GS many years ago. It was a light beam system with a “chopper” to activate it. It failed on a hot day and I we
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