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About Rockie51

  • Birthday 10/23/1945

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  • Location
    Melbourne Australia
  • Cars Owned:
    66 TR4A
    95 Holden Commodore 6 litre V8
    09 Peugeot 407 V6 diesel Coupe
    11 Peugeot 308 HDI

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  1. I have an ongoing problem with the rear brakes. The drums feel like they are square as you come to a halt. I have had the drums machined, and I have replaced the return springs and the holder springs on the shoes. I have fitted new retaining clips to the slave cylinders and greased them. The steel brake lines to the slave cylinders were replaced when the car was rebuilt. The brake shoes still do not seem to be retracting. I can adjust them with the adjusters so that the drum rotates freely but it seems that the first application of the brakes has them binding again. It seem like the slave cylinders are not moving freely. I had the backing plates powder coated when the car was rebuilt and I have done some sanding of the coating in case the thickness of that is stopping the cylinders from sliding. I am wondering whether the modern brake line is too stiff and is preventing the cylinders from moving. I seem to recall pictures of one model of Triumph where the brake lines were coiled before the slave cylinder which would allow more movement. Whatever the problem is, it also causes issues with the handbrake. All contributions gratefully received!
  2. My 4A has the walnut dashboard. The warning lights for ignition and indicators have never lined up properly. The holes in the steel dash panel are not lined up with the timber facing. I am going to take the dash apart and redrill the steel. My query is whether the lights should mount through both the timber and the metal, or only the metal, which is where they are now. Rockie
  3. I have a vague recollection that the six is not heavier than the four. It is a little longer hence a bigger bend in the tube between the suspension towers and a slightly greater tendency to understeer. The TR6 is a heavier car for other reasons. They never used the six cylinder in tractors so it did not have to be as strong.
  4. David, our roads in Australia are rapidly deteriorating, largely due to the plague of 4WD utilities. The largest selling vehicle here is the Toyota Hilux. As all these things weigh more than 2 tonnes and as road damage rises exponentially with increase in weight, our roads are really suffering, along with our road toll. We went to a funeral yesterday of a young man killed when his 4WD rolled. All too common. I hope that the UK does not follow this stupid trend of using macho off road vehicles as daily urban transport. Whilst my choice of GoodParts 390/470lb/in springs has been queried several times on this list, I still find the ride perfectly acceptable, and with the Koni shocks it is well controlled. I note that the heavy duty springs sold by Moss are very similar in rate. As I have said here before, the mounting of the springs part way along the front wishbones and the rear trailing arms means that the rate at the wheel is lower than the nominal spring rate. Triumph raised the rate on the rear springs from 280lb/in on the 4A which was way too low to 350lb/in on the TR6. I would still be concerned about a 1" difference between the left and right front ride height. I would be checking for chassis problems at both ends of the car. You have not mentioned whether you have checked the rear ride heights. As I mentioned earlier, my car was slightly low on the right rear which caused the left front to be high. Correcting the rear fixed the front as well. These cars are old, and, like their owners, are starting to sag in unusual places.......
  5. David, I agree with Malbaby. My car sat low at the right rear and high at the left front. This was after a total rebuild with poly bushes. A 1/2" spacer under the right rear spring levelled both the front and rear. I would measure the distance from the ground to the centre of the wheel arch on both sides, front and rear, and see how the car is sitting. Then you can decide whether the car needs springs or spacers. Putting spacers under the rear springs is generally easier than doing the front. Unlike Malbaby, I have fitted heavier springs, with 390lb/in at the front and 470lb/in at the back and Koni telescopics all round. We have done a lot of long trips with 2 people, suitcases in the boot and behind the seats and a full tank. Not sure how standard springs would have gone with that little lot! Rockie
  6. I seem to recall that I installed my Goodparts rear springs without removing the CV driveshafts. I have Koni telescopics on the rear and I undid the top bolt and dropped the arm down. The Goodparts springs may be shorter than standard so easier to install. Removing the inner bolts at the diff end should give some extra travel. When you say that the arm has hardly moved, have you tried pushing on it? If the bushes are tight, you may need to encourage the arm to move.
  7. Having done several 4000km+ trips including Melbourne to Perth, I would add a couple of items to the excellent lists above. Instead of a wheel brace, I carry a breaker bar with a short extension and the correct sockets to change wheels. The bar reduces the strain on your back. I have alloy wheels on the car with a steel spare, and they have different wheel nuts. I also carry a speed brace to remove and replace the nuts after loosening with the bar. Another crucial addition is a couple of pairs of gloves. I have black ones with rubber facings and fabric backs. They are protective but thin enough to allow you to handle nuts and bolts. Very good for protecting the leather steering wheel after you have worked on the car.
  8. I replaced both of the rubber couplings on my 4A with steel ones. I initially used the Moss TR6 parts but both of them wore out in 5000 miles. I now have the Revington ones which are much larger and stronger. The steering is much more direct and I have had no problems with kickback on Australian roads. The problem with the rubber ones may well be one of age. How do we know how old they are when we buy them? Unlike tyres, there is no manufacturing date on them and NOS could well be 20+ years old. I was once told by an older wiser mechanic that it did not matter how well you cared for your car, after 20 years or so all of the rubber parts would start to deteriorate. Bit like us then.
  9. I have 195/65 Michelins on the 4A on 6" alloys. I went with a 165/80x15 on a standard 4.5" steel rim for the spare. This fitted easily under the tank and allowed me to keep the flat boot floor instead of raising it as in a TR6. Very important when you want to take 2 full sized suitcases (one behind the seats) on a 3 week holiday. I'm not sure about the legality but at least the overall diameter is correct. It will only ever be used as a get me home tyre. Hopefully a flat 195 will fit under the tank. If not, the passenger will have to nurse it. Presumably, she will then tell me that it is her turn to drive. 48th wedding anniversary yesterday and I taught her to drive in a TR3A so she is a long time TR driver.
  10. I had 185/80 Hankooks on my 6'" Minilite replicas. They raised the gearing by about 7% which was good for driving from Melbourne to Perth across the Nullarbor. The Hankooks were a good tyre and very reasonably priced. I then decided to restore the original gearing and went to 195/65 Michelins. They give a marginally harder ride and slightly heavier steering. 165/80 tyres are very hard to get here in Oz and are very expensive. 195/65s are a very popular choice amongst Triumph club members. You pays your money.... Rockie
  11. "Roer?" Saving on email ink?
  12. I have the Racetorations tunnel. It went together well. I used some rubber door draught seal which is adhesive on one side to seal all of the joins including the cover over the speedo drive. (Advantage of owning a hardware store). I did contact Racetorations, asking why they only supply one large bung with the tunnel when there are two large holes, one for the gearbox filler and the other for the UJ greasing hole. They said that they would look into it. It does allow you to remove the tunnel without disconnecting the handbrake, but you still have to remove carpets, seats, overdrive wiring and the H frame to get the gearbox out (again!). In my less rational moments, I have wondered whether a one piece tunnel running from the firewall to the rear bulkhead and incorporating both the gearbox and handbrake covers, made of say carbon fibre and bolted front and rear as well as to the floor would stiffen the body up a bit. When common sense returns, and I peer into the bank account, I forget the idea. Rockie
  13. I have Mk 1 MX5 seats in my 4A and they are a big improvement on the originals. My wife was concerned about whiplash as the 4A seats finish about half way up your back. I used the brackets shown in one of the Roger Williams "Improving TRs" books. The front bracket is taller than the back which gives good support under your thighs. The seats also flip forward to easily allow you to put a large suitcase behind the seats and they have speakers in the headrests so you don't have to cut non standard holes in the car. Wouldn't want to turn it into a TVR.... I have kept the fully reconditioned original seats so that the original purity can be restored in the future if necessary. In the meantime we will travel long distances in slightly greater comfort and safety. ( In addition to White Van Man, we also have White Ute Man here in Oz. They are by far the fastest vehicles on the road). Rockie
  14. I have decided to re-install it with the spline at the front. I went to a local rubber supplier yesterday and bought some new sealing rubber. I will pack the back of the tunnel up to give a bit more clearance and fix the problem after the trip. No links to the Vaseline thread please. Rockie
  15. A couple of years ago, a vibration in the 4A was traced to a failed propshaft. It had been rebuilt by Hardy Spicer here in Oz and had probably only done about 25k miles and had been regularly greased. I had it rebuilt again by a different driveshaft specialist. At the same time I purchased a new gearbox cover from Rimmer to replace the old one which was disintegrating. The first trip around the block after putting everything back together revealed a horrible noise from the front UJ hitting the new cover. Initially I blamed the new cover but further investigation showed that the new front UJ was much larger than the original. As we were about to go on a long trip, I allowed the UJ to "machine" some clearance on the cover and after a short time it only contacted the cover when the car hit a bump. I have just put the gearbox back after having some seals replaced. While the box was out, I took the propshaft back to the rebuilder and explained the problem. We are going on the Triumph National Rally in a couple of weeks and I have to get the car back on the road this week to get other work done. The rebuilder suggested that I simply reverse the shaft as the back UJ is still the original smaller size. This means that the splined section will be at the back instead of the front. I intend either buying a new propshaft or getting mine rebuilt with the correct UJ when we get back. My question is whether running the shaft this way for about 5000km will cause any issues. Rockie
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