Jump to content

Rockie51

Registered User
  • Content Count

    78
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About Rockie51

  • Birthday 10/23/1945

Profile Information

  • Location
    Melbourne Australia
  • Cars Owned:
    66 TR4A
    95 Holden Commodore 6 litre V8
    09 Peugeot 407 V6 diesel Coupe
    11 Peugeot 308 HDI

Recent Profile Visitors

224 profile views
  1. Hi John I had a similar problem with my clutch. I had the gearbox on the 4A rebuilt to cure oil leaks last year. When we went to the National Rally in Queensland in October, the clutch was a major challenge. It would judder on engagement and you could not engage first or reverse at a standstill. We became very good at turn engine off engage gear start engine especially when parking. We survived the 3000km journey by taking up all of the play in the slave cylinder. Earlier this year I finally bit the bullet and ordered a new clutch and bearing from Rimmers. When I removed the gearbox, it appeared that I had a rebuilt clutch - blue in colour with the word Triumph written in white marker. I do not recall whether I installed that clutch 20 years ago. (There is a lot I don’t remember.....) Having replaced the clutch and bearing, cleaned the flywheel and replaced the ******* gearbox again, my diagnosis is that the gearbox rebuilder had quite sensibly replaced the throw out bearing whilst the gearbox was out. However he was not aware of the clutch in the car. The diaphragm on the new clutch is quite different from the old one. We now have a nice smooth clutch with a lighter pedal. I guess the moral is to buy the clutch and bearing at the same time and from the same supplier. Good luck Rockie
  2. She just read that Tony. Be afraid, be very afraid! Rockie
  3. My darling wife has never been able to get the fly off handbrake on our 4A to work despite hours of careful training. I understand that the TR6 had a “normal” handbrake with a standard ratchet. If this is so I would like to convert to that if only for the sake of marital harmony. Can the group confirm whether this is the case? I am about to replace the handbrake cables so it would be a good time to change.
  4. I have the Type 3 shock mount on my 4A. It transfers the loads back to the original lever arm mountings. It is also the shock position on the trailing arm that Triumph used on the 2000/2500 sedans and the Stag. Good enough for me. I recall that Kas Kastner says that “flat is not fast”. It seems that a bit of roll actually makes the tyre grip better. Away from the track, anti-roll bars transfer bumps from one side of the car to the other giving a worse ride. I read in Autocar each week about the appalling state of UK roads and wonder why anyone would want to add an anti-roll bar at either end. I’ll get my coat and hat. The apparent temperature in Melbourne Australia today is 8 degrees. Rockie
  5. When I started rebuilding my 4A, I took the body to Andy Ansell at Triumph Sportscars. I mentioned that I had a 3A in 1968 and that the scuttle shake was a major feature of the car. He told me that he would do some things to the body that would just about eliminate scuttle shake. He did not share the trade secrets, but the car is impressively rigid. I suspect some clever seam welding. I also got him to replace the fibreboard between the cabin and the fuel tank with a fixed aluminium bulkhead which also seems to help rigidity. I suspect that improving the body helps more than strengthening the chassis. The 3A later had a roll bar fitted which actually touched the factory metal hardtop. That eliminated scuttle shake.
  6. 195/65 are very close to the original 165/80 in rolling radius. I have 195/65 Michelins on my 4A on 6” Minilite replicas. We are driving from Melbourne to Perth for the National Rally later this year. I will refit a set of 185/80 Hankooks before we go. That will raise the gearing by about 7% which is equivalent to going from a 3.7 diff to a 3.45 but cheaper! The 185s give slightly lighter steering and a better ride but slightly slower acceleration.
  7. Hi Malcolm I had it installed by Chev’s Performance in Carrum Downs but the diff rebuild was done by Central Diffs. I was told that the crown wheel and pinion were of Italian origin. This was at least 6 years ago so maybe they have forgotten. Rockie
  8. Hi Malcolm Mine came from Central Differentials in Springvale Rockie
  9. I have an ongoing problem with the rear brakes. The drums feel like they are square as you come to a halt. I have had the drums machined, and I have replaced the return springs and the holder springs on the shoes. I have fitted new retaining clips to the slave cylinders and greased them. The steel brake lines to the slave cylinders were replaced when the car was rebuilt. The brake shoes still do not seem to be retracting. I can adjust them with the adjusters so that the drum rotates freely but it seems that the first application of the brakes has them binding again. It seem like the slave cylinders are not moving freely. I had the backing plates powder coated when the car was rebuilt and I have done some sanding of the coating in case the thickness of that is stopping the cylinders from sliding. I am wondering whether the modern brake line is too stiff and is preventing the cylinders from moving. I seem to recall pictures of one model of Triumph where the brake lines were coiled before the slave cylinder which would allow more movement. Whatever the problem is, it also causes issues with the handbrake. All contributions gratefully received!
  10. My 4A has the walnut dashboard. The warning lights for ignition and indicators have never lined up properly. The holes in the steel dash panel are not lined up with the timber facing. I am going to take the dash apart and redrill the steel. My query is whether the lights should mount through both the timber and the metal, or only the metal, which is where they are now. Rockie
  11. I have a vague recollection that the six is not heavier than the four. It is a little longer hence a bigger bend in the tube between the suspension towers and a slightly greater tendency to understeer. The TR6 is a heavier car for other reasons. They never used the six cylinder in tractors so it did not have to be as strong.
  12. David, our roads in Australia are rapidly deteriorating, largely due to the plague of 4WD utilities. The largest selling vehicle here is the Toyota Hilux. As all these things weigh more than 2 tonnes and as road damage rises exponentially with increase in weight, our roads are really suffering, along with our road toll. We went to a funeral yesterday of a young man killed when his 4WD rolled. All too common. I hope that the UK does not follow this stupid trend of using macho off road vehicles as daily urban transport. Whilst my choice of GoodParts 390/470lb/in springs has been queried several times on this list, I still find the ride perfectly acceptable, and with the Koni shocks it is well controlled. I note that the heavy duty springs sold by Moss are very similar in rate. As I have said here before, the mounting of the springs part way along the front wishbones and the rear trailing arms means that the rate at the wheel is lower than the nominal spring rate. Triumph raised the rate on the rear springs from 280lb/in on the 4A which was way too low to 350lb/in on the TR6. I would still be concerned about a 1" difference between the left and right front ride height. I would be checking for chassis problems at both ends of the car. You have not mentioned whether you have checked the rear ride heights. As I mentioned earlier, my car was slightly low on the right rear which caused the left front to be high. Correcting the rear fixed the front as well. These cars are old, and, like their owners, are starting to sag in unusual places.......
  13. David, I agree with Malbaby. My car sat low at the right rear and high at the left front. This was after a total rebuild with poly bushes. A 1/2" spacer under the right rear spring levelled both the front and rear. I would measure the distance from the ground to the centre of the wheel arch on both sides, front and rear, and see how the car is sitting. Then you can decide whether the car needs springs or spacers. Putting spacers under the rear springs is generally easier than doing the front. Unlike Malbaby, I have fitted heavier springs, with 390lb/in at the front and 470lb/in at the back and Koni telescopics all round. We have done a lot of long trips with 2 people, suitcases in the boot and behind the seats and a full tank. Not sure how standard springs would have gone with that little lot! Rockie
  14. I seem to recall that I installed my Goodparts rear springs without removing the CV driveshafts. I have Koni telescopics on the rear and I undid the top bolt and dropped the arm down. The Goodparts springs may be shorter than standard so easier to install. Removing the inner bolts at the diff end should give some extra travel. When you say that the arm has hardly moved, have you tried pushing on it? If the bushes are tight, you may need to encourage the arm to move.
  15. Having done several 4000km+ trips including Melbourne to Perth, I would add a couple of items to the excellent lists above. Instead of a wheel brace, I carry a breaker bar with a short extension and the correct sockets to change wheels. The bar reduces the strain on your back. I have alloy wheels on the car with a steel spare, and they have different wheel nuts. I also carry a speed brace to remove and replace the nuts after loosening with the bar. Another crucial addition is a couple of pairs of gloves. I have black ones with rubber facings and fabric backs. They are protective but thin enough to allow you to handle nuts and bolts. Very good for protecting the leather steering wheel after you have worked on the car.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.