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About Rockie51

  • Birthday 10/23/1945

Profile Information

  • Location
    Melbourne Australia
  • Cars Owned:
    66 TR4A
    95 Holden Commodore 6 litre V8
    09 Peugeot 407 V6 diesel Coupe
    11 Peugeot 308 HDI

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  1. The issue with non Triumph seats is to find some that are narrow enough to fit between the door and the tunnel. You need to be able to adjust them fore and aft. The Mazda seats meet your criterion of being from a major manufacturer and are thus well made. Many decades ago, I had a Suzuki Jimny LJ50 which had the same problem of being very narrow in the cabin. I fitted a pair of Paddy Hopkirk Carrera Recliners which were narrow enough to fit the car. They were very comfortable but the workmanship did have a whiff of being made by enthusiastic amateurs. Not sure that they would have passed TUV inspection. The other advantage of Mazda seats is the wide range of trim kits available on the net. Mine came from UK and were half the price of a local retrim. You can select one that mimics the original seats with colour and piping.
  2. Rockie51


    The advantages of MX5 seats are many. They are comfortable, they have head restraints, they have adjustable back rests and they hold you better when cornering. If you get the Mk 1 seats, you can have speakers in the headrests. If you really want to listen to the radio in a TR, having the speakers as close as possible to your ears is a Good Thing. We have done many long journeys in the 4A (8400km to Perth and back last October) and had no issues with comfort. The other advantage of the adjustable back rests is ease of loading luggage into the back of the car without getting a hernia! I still have the retrimmed original seats stored in the garage.
  3. When I rebuilt my 4A all those years ago, I fitted 185/80x15 Michelin XAS on 6" Minator wheels. They seemed to suit the car very well with their old style rounded profile. About 9 years ago, an alignment problem in the rear suspension led to needing new tyres. The quote for Michelin XAS was about $A1800 (or 900 pounds)! I fitted Hankook 185/80x15 Optimo for about a quarter of that. I realised that the 185s raised the gearing by about 7% but as the car had a rebuilt engine with 87mm liners, it pulled the higher gearing easily. I decided to try going back to the original gearing and fitted 195/65x15 Michelins. They gave better acceleration with a slightly harder ride. I did have a major spin on the race track when the wider profile tucked under at the rear. 165/65 tyres are almost unobtainable here in Australia and very expensive although I do have one on a 4"rim as a spare to retain the flat floor in the boot. I put the Hankooks back on for our recent trip from Melbourne to Perth across the Nullarbor Plain and back. We did 8400km in 3 weeks. The higher gearing made the trip more pleasant. Going from 165/80 to 185/80 is the equivalent of fitting a 3.45 TR6 diff. The 165 and 175/65s suggested by Hamish would cause a major change in gearing. Interestingly, the 185/80 weighs the same as a 195/65 so no change in unsprung weight.
  4. The engine looks surprisingly small for a 2000litre.
  5. Hi John I had a similar problem with my clutch. I had the gearbox on the 4A rebuilt to cure oil leaks last year. When we went to the National Rally in Queensland in October, the clutch was a major challenge. It would judder on engagement and you could not engage first or reverse at a standstill. We became very good at turn engine off engage gear start engine especially when parking. We survived the 3000km journey by taking up all of the play in the slave cylinder. Earlier this year I finally bit the bullet and ordered a new clutch and bearing from Rimmers. When I removed the gearbox, it appeared that I had a rebuilt clutch - blue in colour with the word Triumph written in white marker. I do not recall whether I installed that clutch 20 years ago. (There is a lot I don’t remember.....) Having replaced the clutch and bearing, cleaned the flywheel and replaced the ******* gearbox again, my diagnosis is that the gearbox rebuilder had quite sensibly replaced the throw out bearing whilst the gearbox was out. However he was not aware of the clutch in the car. The diaphragm on the new clutch is quite different from the old one. We now have a nice smooth clutch with a lighter pedal. I guess the moral is to buy the clutch and bearing at the same time and from the same supplier. Good luck Rockie
  6. She just read that Tony. Be afraid, be very afraid! Rockie
  7. My darling wife has never been able to get the fly off handbrake on our 4A to work despite hours of careful training. I understand that the TR6 had a “normal” handbrake with a standard ratchet. If this is so I would like to convert to that if only for the sake of marital harmony. Can the group confirm whether this is the case? I am about to replace the handbrake cables so it would be a good time to change.
  8. I have the Type 3 shock mount on my 4A. It transfers the loads back to the original lever arm mountings. It is also the shock position on the trailing arm that Triumph used on the 2000/2500 sedans and the Stag. Good enough for me. I recall that Kas Kastner says that “flat is not fast”. It seems that a bit of roll actually makes the tyre grip better. Away from the track, anti-roll bars transfer bumps from one side of the car to the other giving a worse ride. I read in Autocar each week about the appalling state of UK roads and wonder why anyone would want to add an anti-roll bar at either end. I’ll get my coat and hat. The apparent temperature in Melbourne Australia today is 8 degrees. Rockie
  9. When I started rebuilding my 4A, I took the body to Andy Ansell at Triumph Sportscars. I mentioned that I had a 3A in 1968 and that the scuttle shake was a major feature of the car. He told me that he would do some things to the body that would just about eliminate scuttle shake. He did not share the trade secrets, but the car is impressively rigid. I suspect some clever seam welding. I also got him to replace the fibreboard between the cabin and the fuel tank with a fixed aluminium bulkhead which also seems to help rigidity. I suspect that improving the body helps more than strengthening the chassis. The 3A later had a roll bar fitted which actually touched the factory metal hardtop. That eliminated scuttle shake.
  10. 195/65 are very close to the original 165/80 in rolling radius. I have 195/65 Michelins on my 4A on 6” Minilite replicas. We are driving from Melbourne to Perth for the National Rally later this year. I will refit a set of 185/80 Hankooks before we go. That will raise the gearing by about 7% which is equivalent to going from a 3.7 diff to a 3.45 but cheaper! The 185s give slightly lighter steering and a better ride but slightly slower acceleration.
  11. Hi Malcolm I had it installed by Chev’s Performance in Carrum Downs but the diff rebuild was done by Central Diffs. I was told that the crown wheel and pinion were of Italian origin. This was at least 6 years ago so maybe they have forgotten. Rockie
  12. Hi Malcolm Mine came from Central Differentials in Springvale Rockie
  13. I have an ongoing problem with the rear brakes. The drums feel like they are square as you come to a halt. I have had the drums machined, and I have replaced the return springs and the holder springs on the shoes. I have fitted new retaining clips to the slave cylinders and greased them. The steel brake lines to the slave cylinders were replaced when the car was rebuilt. The brake shoes still do not seem to be retracting. I can adjust them with the adjusters so that the drum rotates freely but it seems that the first application of the brakes has them binding again. It seem like the slave cylinders are not moving freely. I had the backing plates powder coated when the car was rebuilt and I have done some sanding of the coating in case the thickness of that is stopping the cylinders from sliding. I am wondering whether the modern brake line is too stiff and is preventing the cylinders from moving. I seem to recall pictures of one model of Triumph where the brake lines were coiled before the slave cylinder which would allow more movement. Whatever the problem is, it also causes issues with the handbrake. All contributions gratefully received!
  14. My 4A has the walnut dashboard. The warning lights for ignition and indicators have never lined up properly. The holes in the steel dash panel are not lined up with the timber facing. I am going to take the dash apart and redrill the steel. My query is whether the lights should mount through both the timber and the metal, or only the metal, which is where they are now. Rockie
  15. I have a vague recollection that the six is not heavier than the four. It is a little longer hence a bigger bend in the tube between the suspension towers and a slightly greater tendency to understeer. The TR6 is a heavier car for other reasons. They never used the six cylinder in tractors so it did not have to be as strong.
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