MikeF Posted January 15, 2018 Report Share Posted January 15, 2018 I purchased new Levers from Moss and found a distinct improvement, and no issues. The only comment I would add is that you need to make sure you bolt the new ones very tightly or you will quickly get mystery clonks as the bodies move around, My local "old feller who knows stuff" (actually the same age as me advised against using uprated types and also advised that there was little to nothing to be gained in normal road use in having SPAX/Konis etc on the front. So I didn't , Part of this decision was based on my experience long ago with Putting some adjustable SPAX on a Spitfire. I spent a lot of time mucking around with settings on that and came to the conclusion that except in extremes, eg rallying - the best setting was no difference to the standard types I had taken off. All very subjective of course. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted January 15, 2018 Report Share Posted January 15, 2018 (edited) As Mike indicates, the rear lever arm shock absorbers need to be mounted very tight. Under each bolt is a special very thick flat ring, not a standard ring. Some of us install longer bolts with a nut added at the back of the bracket where the damper is bolted to. Personally I do not see the benefit of the additional nut. It will not increase the bolt load on the damper, but others may disagree. It is important to remove burrs, thick paint, rust etc on the contacting faces to avoid loss of bolt stress due this. Also, the threaded hole should be cleaned with a tap, and the bolts checked for sufficient length and easy movement over the entire length ( rust may be present in the bottom of the threaded end, giving a false indication the bolt is stressed enough. Regards, Waldi Edited January 15, 2018 by Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dingle Posted January 15, 2018 Report Share Posted January 15, 2018 (edited) In the colonies, the most respected rebuilder of lever shocks is http://www.nosimport.com/Lever-shocks-remanufactured/triumph-tr250-tr6-lever-shocks/triumph-tr6tr4atr250-rear-shock-absorber-rebuilt-world-wide-auto-nosimportTheir shocks are supposed to be superior to new ones. I don't know if they are are the supplier of the ones sold by Moss. Waldi-I think the additional nut (think jam nut) is used to resist loosening. Berry Edited January 15, 2018 by dingle Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted January 15, 2018 Report Share Posted January 15, 2018 (edited) Sorry, do not know how to quote only part of a post: Waldi-I think the additional nut (think jam nut) is used to resist loosening. Berry Hi Berry, That can indeed be the reason, but if the joint is assembled and tightened properly, that should not be needed. The additional nut releases the contact pressure in the original thread (takes over some of it). It starts with a loose connection. Regards, Waldi Edited January 15, 2018 by Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 15, 2018 Report Share Posted January 15, 2018 Hi Waldi, to import part of a quote. Hit the quote button and import all of it. Within that quote highlight and delete what you don;t want. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted January 16, 2018 Report Share Posted January 16, 2018 Thanks Roger! If you know it, it is simple:) Regards, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clarkey Posted January 20, 2018 Report Share Posted January 20, 2018 I have the racetorations kit fitted to mine and have had for nearly10 years now transformed the cars rear end they bolt into the original suspension mounting on the chassis so they're is no need for any fixing to the body shell like some others well worth it in my opinion, a doddle to fit Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 21, 2018 Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 I have the racetorations kit fitted to mine and have had for nearly10 years now transformed the cars rear end they bolt into the original suspension mounting on the chassis so they're is no need for any fixing to the body shell like some others well worth it in my opinion, a doddle to fit As long as you dont try adjusting the shock absorber in a car park on the IOW. :lol: Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clarkey Posted January 21, 2018 Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 As long as you dont try adjusting the shock absorber in a car park on the IOW. :lol: Stuart. Who .........Me Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Damson6 Posted January 22, 2018 Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 Hi Ian, the damper in coil design may have certain advantages but DIY it is not. It needs a serious application of engineering. And depending how the body sits on the chassis may not be useable at all. It does work when fitted well but far too complicated. Roger Agree Roger Been there done that and no ground clearance as not enough travel on the S/Abs and can only use the shorter springs supplied. Not suitable for normal road use in my opinion. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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