TR NIALL Posted January 17, 2017 Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 Hi Folks, Correction - it is not sagging (low in the middle and high at the ends) it is Hogging (low at the ends and high in the middle) Sorry about that - I should know better being an ex-aerospace apprentice. 'Pop' Payne (apprentice instructor ) would be upset. Roger Sure Open the Doors and get Sue and yourself to jump up and down on the Cills. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 Hi Paul, yes indeed, I've experienced the moving gaps over the years.. I need to lift the back on mine. I can't see a problem at the moment but things change so quickly Roger Hi Roger, Have you not answered your own question? Jack up the rear of the car and see if the gap closes up enough for the roof to fit. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 Hi Roger, Have you not answered your own question? Jack up the rear of the car and see if the gap closes up enough for the roof to fit. Cheers Graeme Roger don't do Simple. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 Hi Niall/Graeme, I can and do do simple. If I simply jack the back up and fit the roof, the roof will then try and move the front screen rearwards when the back is off the jack. One of my complicated mod's on the front screen is to fit a piece of bent metal that forms a rain guard on the vertical part of the frame. With the door window in the up position the gap between door glass and bent metal is very very close. If the screen comes rearwards then they will hit. So I would rather raise the back of the body up without the chance of it going down again. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 Hi Niall/Graeme, I can and do do simple. If I simply jack the back up and fit the roof, the roof will then try and move the front screen rearwards when the back is off the jack. One of my complicated mod's on the front screen is to fit a piece of bent metal that forms a rain guard on the vertical part of the frame. With the door window in the up position the gap between door glass and bent metal is very very close. If the screen comes rearwards then they will hit. So I would rather raise the back of the body up without the chance of it going down again. Roger So your hoping to just bend/flex the back half of the Body. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 Hi Niall, Yes. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 Hmm on a 4a you indeed would only have to undo the two rear mounts and the spare wheel hook to be able to jack the rear up a bit but what about the rear of your door glasses to the Surrey frame upright section Roger what are they like? What does the curve of the roof if just laid in place match like to the top of the windows? Do you have the guide tubes in the top of the windscreen frame and have they moved? Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 Oh and have you had a good look at the chassis lately? Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 Hi Stuart, The chassis appears to be fine. I replaced the T-shirt bottom panel two years ago and apart from rust in the T-shirt trapped pockets the rest looked fine. When doing this the chassis was jacked up very well. Over the years the door gaps have opened at the tops a small amount. The gap behind the door glass is more than enough to accommodate a slight lift of the back. Regarding the roof/top of windows - I'll have to have a trial fit shortly and see. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 (edited) Roger Simple test,fold cardboard so it just fits in the door gap (shut) jack the car up back first lower and then front and see if you can remove it. Edited January 18, 2017 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
valvebounce Posted January 19, 2017 Report Share Posted January 19, 2017 If you are only a few mm out my brute force technique might work. I get one bolt threaded loosely at the front then the two back bolts in position. For the last front bolt I put my shoulder against the top of the windscreen frame and you can push it out hard enough with your leg muscles to get a few mm of flex, at the same time you can feel and locate bolt with your hand. Let go and then tighten everything up. Not pretty, but I've been doing that for 20 years it works every time! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2017 Hi VB, indeed that would be the approach I would take, but I do not want to move the front screen at all. I'm sure the problem lies in the back of the car being down a very small amount. I can't see any harm in raising it a smidge. I know there will be knock on effects but they will either be sorted or put back to how it was. The chassis/body attachment bolts are soaking in 'PlusGas' at the moment Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 19, 2017 Report Share Posted January 19, 2017 Couple of things to watch if you are going to jack the rear up Roger is the bottom seam of the "B" post to sill and also the anti-burst tongue and receiver may not fit together right after. Also check fuel pipe and front of boot floor to shock bridge clearance. You may laugh about the last one but I have seen a lot that are too close to call just there. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2017 Hi Stuart, thanks for that. The door anti burst tongue I had thought of but the others are added to the list. Roger. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
keith1948 Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 Hi Roger Just a thought but if you loosen nuts holding surrey top to body there might be enough movement possible to line up the holes? Alternatively your suggestion of packing spacers between body and chassis attachments at rear would also work. Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 Hi Keith, Not trying to put you down but I think that's just about brought the discussion around to the second post and original reply to the question ! Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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