Grahamgl Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 Hi, Whilst driving my car yesterday I found that the nearside indicators were not working. When I arrived back home I found that all the indicator lights were working when I tried the hazard light switch. Upon further investigation, I found that one of the wires on the indicator switch body had become detached. It was not possible to re-solder it in situ due to the fibre plate all three wires pass through. So replacement used item ordered, prefer this course of action as I have been told that the "new" Lucas items lack a lot in build quality. When the replacement switch has been fitted I would like to see if it is possible to repair the failed switch. Has anyone gone down this route before and, if so, any tips or advice would be gratefully received. Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Harvey Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 Graham, I had exactly the same problem and the new replacement switch was such poor quality I never fitted it. I was not confident the self cancel would stand up to use, never mind the electrical connections. I couldn't solder the original for the reasons you mention. It is quite a lot of hassle to replace the switch as all the wires run down behind the steering column and are a tight fit under the metal cover. I suspect a lot of switches (including the indicators and overdrive if fitted) get damaged with the tugging and pulling to get it all neat. I managed to find a used switch which should stand up to the job. The chrome is pitted but at least I shouldn't have to take the whole lot apart again soon (fatal last words?) Cheers, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Horsley Posted August 30, 2014 Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 Funnily enough I had the same issue today and I installed a new switch, a bit confusing as the wires colours didn't match (blue/red feed wire instead green/brown), however I did dismantle my old switch later and from the inside of the switch managed to re-solder the offending wire back on, hopefully the new switch holds up, but I have a spare now . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grahamgl Posted August 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 Hi Grinnal Nut, Thanks for the reply. Did you have difficulty opening the switch body. It would appear to me that to open it, it is necessary to remove the central pin which is rivetted. To remove the pin I imagine that the rivetted end needs to be drilled, centre drill then an appropriate size metal drill. Does the rivet rotate when being drilled? Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnny250 Posted August 31, 2014 Report Share Posted August 31, 2014 (edited) Hi Graham, I did an article for TRAction on the switch repair (about 2008 I think) PDF via email sent if that helps (your email bounced) john Edited August 31, 2014 by johnny250 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Horsley Posted August 31, 2014 Report Share Posted August 31, 2014 Hi Graham, Luckily mine was loose and easily remove, I just pulled the spring retainers off and gentle prised the body out, , clean the contact off with the soldering iron to reveal the tag hole, stripped the wire, threaded it through and then then re-soldered from inside the body. But I'm sure what John has sent you will give better detail Good luck, Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grahamgl Posted August 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2014 John, I tried to send you a pm but your box must be full as it said you could not receive any messages. I have also tried to update my email address on here but as yet it has not changed. Please use Grahamgl9999 at aol.com, Regards Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grahamgl Posted September 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Well, a couple of hours in the garage today and the switch has been rescued/repaired, dismantled, cleaned, thread cut, new wires soldered on, put back together and tested. Tomorrow it goes back onto the car. I can then get on with preparing my car for next month's RBRR. Thank you John for the Pdf and Phil for your input. Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 Hi Graham, yesterday I fitted hazard flashers to the 4A, also in readiness for the RBRR - see you at the Plough car #69 Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 You pessimist Roger, surely you can't be expecting any more problems with ATR 4A for a while now! Seriously though I reckon hazards a worthwhile addition to a 4A - I acquired my kit some 35 years ago when they were about £2 at a car boot, One of the wires came adrift from my original indicator switch a while ago. I was able to solder the broken wire back together. Some time later the switch failed again. This time it was terminal, the casting had cracked. Couldn't complain after 46 years. I sourced a reproduction replacement from the Internet, the quality of construction was appalling and the action so sloppy that the lever would not even stay in position for a left turn (of course I had not fitted it to the car). I contacted the supplier who must have been aware of the problem since he gave me a full refund and didn't even want the u/s switch back. I subsequently sourced a replacement switch from Duncan Lloyd (eBay user: lotsofclassicbits). This was a decent quality item, produced in Taiwan and supplied in a Lucas box with part number 158966, a pack date and batch number. All I needed to do was remove the black plastic cover from the stalk, which then matched those of my lighting and overdrive switches. The switch has proved totally satisfactory in use and I can fully recommend this component from the aforementioned supplier. See both yiou and Graham at Gaydon on 21st for the Club Triumph Round Britain Reliability Run meeting. Tim Hunt (and Howard Pryor) Car #17 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grahamgl Posted September 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 Roger, Tim, I fitted hazard unit to my car back in the spring in readiness for the RBRR. I have also made a temporary fix unit in case the indicator switch gives up the ghost on the RBRr, a On/off/On switch in Maplins component box with a flying lead. Uprated the front suspension today to two stud brackets with strengthening plates, which, by the way, had to be fettled to get them to fit -holes not quite in the right place and the plates were just a bit over size. Also obtained a good s/hindicator switch which I have stripped, dismantled, cleaned and soldered new wires to it, not that I intend to replace it on the RBRR. The only thing left to do apart from oil and filter changes is to replace all four tyres, mine are over six years old. I am buying Vredstein t tracs and fitting them with new Michelin tubes. See you both on the 21st. Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tthomson Posted September 18, 2014 Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 I have repaired the indicator switch on my TR4A, including re-soldering the wires. It is not as diffcult as you might think, but yes, you do need to drill out the rivet. I replaced it with a cheese-head 2.5mm set screw of suitable length with a flat washer on the head end and a lock washer and nut on the other end (I have the head end on the side away from the return springs) You just need to be careful how you take it apart and note what goes where for when you put it back together. It helps to use a hefty soldering iron. (I used a 100Watt soldering gun) TT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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