Special tools for front end suspension rebuild

[PacificWonderland]

Hey Everyone,

I'm a newbie to the TR Register, so I apologize in advance if this question has already been asked. I am rebuilding the front suspension on my 1960 TR3A, and I want to make sure that I have all the right tools to remove and reassemble the parts. I would like to know which of the following tools are required, which are still available and from what sources, and which have substitutes available:

1. Churchill Tool No. M.50 (Spring Compressor)
   
2. Churchill Turning Measuring Tool No.121U (for setting steering locks)
   
3. Ball joint separators (does one size fit all of them?)
   
4. Alignment Gauge (for front end alignment measurements)
   

And please consider that I live in the western U.S. Thanks for your help.

-Pete

[Richardtr3a]

A length of studding with two big washers to act as a spring compressor and possibly a local engineering shop for the reaming if necessary, are all you need.

 

Good luck Richard

[vivdownunder]

Hi Pete,

 

In the States, Moss Motors.com can supply a TR spring compressor which hopefully would come with written instructions. Refitting the front springs is a task that needs to be double checked before each move, given the energy involved, and only carried by those completely confident in their skills.

 

You need to consult a Workshop Manual to set up the correct end float tolerances on the lower outer fulcrum.

 

The outer lower wishbone bushes had to be reamed out after pressing into the arms on the last suspension rebuild I did, to suit the trunnion pins. Moss may be able

to supply the reamer, or obtain it locally as Richard said, as it is not a TR specific tool.

 

Best regards,

 

Viv.

[Nick_nl]

Hello Pete,

 

Just a few weeks ago I stripped a 3a chassis to have it cleaned.

Removing the springs is something you have to be careful with.

 

unfortunately I didn't have the correct Churchill Tool.

So I used a piece of M20 threaded rod 2 big nuts and 2 pieces of flat bar.

This was good enough to compress the spring enough to safely remove the bottom plate.

After this I slowly removed the tension by loosening the nut.

The rest of the parts could easily be removed.

 

On the picture you can see the part in action, its sticking out at the bottom.

 

 

[ianc]

I concur with the advice about the use of an internal, screw-type compressor - even if "home-made". There is an enormous amount of force bottled-up in a TR front spring, and a pair of external compressors are almost impossible to fit and to retain in place, so could be lethal should one slip off.

A home-made screw-type compressor is fine as long as the thing is beefy enough and the thread long enough to release ALL the compression in the spring. My brother (a Chartered Mechanical Engineer) made one for me in the 1960s, but I managed to acquire the proper Churchill tool later on - both work well.

You will need to borrow or hire a ball joint splitter - just walloping the thing does not work!

Follow the manual, be careful, , and all will be well.

Ian Cornish

[TR 2100]

On the picture you can see the part in action, its sticking out at the bottom.

 

 

Looks like this job drove you up the wall!

[Nick_nl]

Looks like this job drove you up the wall!

 

 

That isn't me on the picture but my father.

 

I made some pictures of the device we used to compress the springs.

Doesn't look nice but it did work just fine.

 

pictures are clickable

 

[j-eichert]

Hello there,

I used a home-made device as well: A piece of large threaded rod, cut to a suitable length of 20". Together with washers & nuts it worked well with some points to take into account

1) on top: washers + 2 nuts were ok

2) on the bottom side, you need to distribute the force to the spring pan.

3) I used a block of wood on one side, drilled holes for the studs (shock absorber mounting) and the rod and formed it to fit into the spring pan.

4) The other attempt was to use two short pieces of 3/4" square. I welded the together by placing a washer on top of them. The distance between the parallel pieces if iron was so, that the thereaded rod fitted through

5) Both ideas worked, with the some small problem: compressing the spring changes the angle of the spring pan, and my holes didn't give enough play for the rod.

6) In both cases the rod is long enough to start with a completly expanded spring + spring pan. So the spring pan is moved up until it meets the lower wishbones. Top fixation of the spring is very good, as well as longitudinal fixation. I saw no danger of the spring to jump out of its position.

7) The forces to meet are not infinite: Actually i have a load of 200kg on the front axle + weight of body & wings (no engine/ gearbox inside at the moment, no front apron, bonnet mounted). This results in a compression of the front springs of 1/2" from lower rebound bumper. So assume weight of chassis + body as 250kg + some parts = 300 kg -> 150kg per spring. More compressoin is not necessary to mount the front suspension parts.

 

Hope these ideas are of some help...

[vivdownunder]

Hi all,

 

Item 5 above - getting the spring pan to align to the 6 x fixing points is helped if you use guide rods through the centre two bolt holes in the spring pan as you compress the spring up.

 

Again, only do this task if you are totally confident. If the spring gets loose you will most likely find it in the next suburb. You don't want to be attached.

 

Take care,

 

Viv.

[littlejim]

Just finished doing it twice on the TR4A's driver's side (right over here) with the home made spring compressor. the first time the spring bowed out and couldn't get the shocker far enough up to do the nut(s) up. Had to redo it with the flat/double part of the spring on the outside, then all was well.

Also relearnt that any re-checking of stud threads with a die, and hole threads with a tap, is best done before the spring pan and wishbones go on the car. Access to the threads and holes on the car is poor, especially the two at the chassis end of the lower wishbone.

 

Have also had to write myself a note on the wall to torque up the spline attachment bolts(wire wheels) in a year or two's time, because with the bare chassis, (master cylinder under the house) I haven't worked out how to stop the hub turning while I lean on the torque wrench.