Petrol leak

[Richardtr3a]

 I found a number saved on my phone for  Classic Car Electrics. I thought that it was the same man who came out last time. It was a few years ago when I removed the front panel and the first repair man had repaired the wiring by running a new feed from the LHS headlamp over to the RHS cluster of connections.  But today  it was a new friend. He came out at 9.30 and spent the whole morning replacing rusty connections and making new earth wires. I had a wiring diagram but he never looked at it. His van had a number of shelves in the back with many reels of cable. After two and a half  hours and two cups of tea he had finished.

All the lights, spot lamps, indicators ,  heater and the charging socket  were working well and both headlamps were wired according to the wiring plan. He was not worried by the previous work and would be able to fit a new loom if I wanted one.

He also spotted some small dampness under the front SU. I looked at it later and there was some minor leak. In my SU parts box there were two stepped rubber washers which would fit on the float chamber support arm bolt

If I fit them there seems to be a metal washer the same size which I think goes over the bolt before the first half of the rubber washer. Just recently I used Wellseal on my banjo bolt and I am thinking of using it tomorrow on my stepped rubber seals.

I need some advice.

Richard & B

[Richardtr3a]

This afternoon I removed the float chamber and checked the seals. In my box I had three pairs of stepped black rubber washers with a metal washer with each set.

I was pleased to be able to remove the bolt and check the seals. The reason that I have the new stepped washers,  in stock,  is because my float chamber fixing bolt has the chamfered shoulder. I then remembered that when I last fitted the seals the shouldered bolt will not allow the stepped seals to fit over the shoulder. last time I made some seals out of washers and Wellseal which have lasted for a few years. This time I did the same but used the top half of the stepped washer to seal between the float chamber support and the carb body.

I am leaving the carbs dry until tomorrow before testing. Do any forum friends have an answer to the chamfered shoulder ??

Thanks Richard & B

[RobH]

I really don't know why you feel the need to use sealing goop on every joint Richard. The rubber washers are designed to do the job unaided if you assemble the joint correctly. 

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/fuel-system-induction-controls/carburettors-manifolds/carburettors-air-filters-h6-su-tr3-tr3a-tr4-1955-65.html

Edited March 29 by RobH

[Richardtr3a]

I Rob,

Thanks for the link.  I have checked out my SU spares and do not have any cupped steel washers part 116 AUC1337.  If I fitted a cupped steel washer this would presumably allow the chamfered bolt to fit the rubber shouldered grommets.  Why is the bolt this unusual shape ??

I have also been advised to use Viton seals. Where can I find them ?

Thanks for your help

Richard & B

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Perhaps Burlen in Salisbury.

https://sucarb.co.uk/shop

or

Southern Carbs in Crawley

 

https://www.southerncarbs.co.uk/page_1822386.html

[Rod1883]

Southern Carbs in Crawley are very knowledgeable and hold a good stock of parts, imho.

[Kiwifrog]

I have used Burlen for years but their new website (ok I haven't visited for a couple of years) seems to lack the functionality  of the old site and even when you punch in valid numbers from their parts book that I bought years ago the site can't find the reference. The only way I found the bits I needed today was by madly clicking on car type then exploded diagrams and then finally found the part I needed.

The site looks good though