SteveP TR3A Posted February 12 Author Report Share Posted February 12 Mick, I used it to remove the lever from the rod. I assumed the pin was broken in two places because of the way the accelerator rod behaved (which it turned out it was). I punched out the pin from the lever on the bench and the middle bit from the rod while it was still attached to the car. I fitted the puller so that the two lugs fitted behind the flange, which allowed the screw (not sure what that is called) could be screwed onto the accelerator rod, which then pulled the lever off. So, the puller wheel was facing the engine block horizontally. There was just enough room to get my hand in and turn the wheel. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SteveP TR3A Posted February 12 Author Report Share Posted February 12 Hi Marco, it looks like the original so-called 'mills' pin. It isn't copper - maybe mild steel? Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted February 12 Report Share Posted February 12 2 hours ago, SteveP TR3A said: Mick, I used it to remove the lever from the rod. I assumed the pin was broken in two places because of the way the accelerator rod behaved (which it turned out it was). I punched out the pin from the lever on the bench and the middle bit from the rod while it was still attached to the car. I fitted the puller so that the two lugs fitted behind the flange, which allowed the screw (not sure what that is called) could be screwed onto the accelerator rod, which then pulled the lever off. So, the puller wheel was facing the engine block horizontally. There was just enough room to get my hand in and turn the wheel. Steve Thanks Steve, understand now. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted February 12 Report Share Posted February 12 2 hours ago, SteveP TR3A said: Hi Marco, it looks like the original so-called 'mills' pin. It isn't copper - maybe mild steel? Steve Copper would explain it.. Have a close look, please. Maybe you have what we call (directly translated) „lead foot“ on the pedal…? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SteveP TR3A Posted February 12 Author Report Share Posted February 12 Hi Marco, no lead foot I'm afraid. However, while sorting it all out, I noticed there was not a pedal stop fitted, meaning the pedal could be literally 'pressed hard to the floor'. I have now got a longer bolt that I will be fitting to the internal offside bracket, which is where, as I understand it, the pedal stop should be. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted February 12 Report Share Posted February 12 (edited) Aaaah! The same terminus "leadfoot" / "Bleifuß" Edited February 12 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted February 13 Report Share Posted February 13 I would think it would be possible to make a tool a bit like this, with a nut on the end rather than a knurled knob., so you could get a socket on it from underneath. (Or is the starter motor in the way?) You would just need the curved bit big enough to go over the throttle rod connector Would it work for a tight taper pin though? https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/ppt13/roll-pin-removal-tool Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted February 13 Report Share Posted February 13 7 hours ago, Charlie D said: I would think it would be possible to make a tool a bit like this, with a nut on the end rather than a knurled knob., so you could get a socket on it from underneath. (Or is the starter motor in the way?) You would just need the curved bit big enough to go over the throttle rod connector Would it work for a tight taper pin though? https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/ppt13/roll-pin-removal-tool You might even be able to adapt a bicycle chain link remover. https://www.qdstores.co.uk/products/rolson-bicycle-chain-link-remover.html# Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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