Tr4A

[John h]

What to do 

hi, to all continuing on with bodywork, slowly, not sure what to do about a couple of issues. Someone has braised in what looks like old pennies over wing, mirror, holes, was filled with body filler which had cracked so sanded off the filler. This is what I’m left with is filler acceptable, or should I have a go at lead loading? And on the bonnet has a very small crack in it as you can see again should I weld or lead load 

Kind regards, Jon

[stuart]

The two holes on the bulkhead top would take leading over no bother at all. The repair you see was typical back in the day repairs. The split in the bonnet is a slightly different kettle of fish, it really would need careful welding to avoid distortion, probably with a wet rag round it and a air blow gun to cool as soon as its welded, do it in very short welds cooling as you go. To prevent it happening again as thats a weak point in the bonnet I always fit re-enforcing plates underneath to spread the load, they are spot welded to the edge of the skin and then also welded to the upper frame section. see below pictures. I have patterns for these if required.

Stuart.

Edited October 28, 2023 by stuart

[John h]

Thanks yet again, Stuart will do the welding and the loading will post results with regards to the bonnet reinforcing panels. I think I’ll have a go at making them myself if I get stuck or they turn out rubbish I’ll come back to you if that’s okay once again. Thanks for your help. Regards John

[stuart]

18 minutes ago, John h said:

Thanks yet again, Stuart will do the welding and the loading will post results with regards to the bonnet reinforcing panels. I think I’ll have a go at making them myself if I get stuck or they turn out rubbish I’ll come back to you if that’s okay once again. Thanks for your help. Regards John

Be very careful if your going to try and lead that bonnet repair as its easy to distort with too much heat, I would weld and carefully grind flat then use a thin skim of filler like UPOL-D as its an aluminium based filler and very flexible, any of the cheaper fillers tend to crack with any flex and there is always flexing going on in a bonnet skin.

Stuart.

[John h]

Thanks Stuart will do. on a different note I have to weld in some wiring loom. Tags on the passenger side. What’s the route for the loom as it comes into the foot well is it at the front of the foot well or down the back of the b post and along the inner sill 

[Motorsport Mickey]

Hi Stuart,

Got this job to do myself, do you carefully plug weld the reinforcing plate on underneath along it's long side on the angle ? I could spot weld along there also but of course it will "dimple "the bonnet skin.

Mick Richards

[RogerH]

Hi Mick

I think you can see spot weld impressions along the bonnet side flange and top skin area.  The joggled rear section must be plug welded due to poor access.

I didn't weld the angled section and rely on the bonnet flange and rear plugs.

However I'm sure Stuart will unravel all shortly  

 

Roger

Edited October 28, 2023 by RogerH

[Malbaby]

I always bare metal prior to any body panel repair, as that is the only way to determine what type of repair is appropriate.

As Stuart noted, the bonnet crack is due to metal stress/fatigue and requires reinforcement of the supporting structure in various forms.

I also plug weld in a long strips of metal to the inside edges of the bonnet sides, and reinforce the back corners with angle brackets.

That cowl needs comprehensive investigation as there has been some dodgy repairs.

Personally, I prefer to cut out suspect areas and replace with new metal.

[stuart]

20 hours ago, John h said:

Thanks Stuart will do. on a different note I have to weld in some wiring loom. Tags on the passenger side. What’s the route for the loom as it comes into the foot well is it at the front of the foot well or down the back of the b post and along the inner sill 

Loom goes from the back of the bulkhead down the middle of the left hand kick panel then along the side of the inner sill and then up the back of the "B" post and then splits so one side goes back and down under the left hand tonneau side panel to the l/hand rear lights and the other split goes across under the rear deck and then down under the right hand tonneau side to the r/hand rear lights.

Stuart.

[stuart]

19 hours ago, RogerH said:

Hi Mick

I think you can see spot weld impressions along the bonnet side flange and top skin area.  The joggled rear section must be plug welded due to poor access.

I didn't weld the angled section and rely on the bonnet flange and rear plugs.

However I'm sure Stuart will unravel all shortly  

 

Roger

I do it like that but I do spot weld to the bonnet skin as you can see in those pictures, a few careful taps with a hammer and dolly and a little skim of stopper soon covers them. As long as the joddle at the rear is deep enough then you can get the plate to lay absolutely dead tight to the skin so you get no pulling down in the spots. FWIW I always like to see the tiny depressed spots in the vent flap where the hinge is spotted on, looks more original.

Stuart.

Edited October 29, 2023 by stuart

[RogerH]

14 minutes ago, stuart said:

I do it like that but I do spot weld to the bonnet skin as you can see in those pictures, a few careful taps with a hammer and dolly and a little skim of stopper soon covers them. As long as the joddle at the rear is deep enough then you can get the plate to lay absolutely dead tight to the skin so you get no pulling down in the spots. FWIW I always like to see the tiny depressed spots in the vent flap where the hinge is spotted on, looks more original.

Stuart.

I remade that  flap out  of stainless as I hated that it kept rusting.  As it is not painted I went for a very nice (expensive Araldite) that we use on the aircraft. to attach the hinge It has held for 20 years so far

 

Roger

[John h]

Thanks for all your help and support guys that will give me something to get on with will post pics later