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Starting point for hs6 su carbs after rebuild please


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So, I’ve stripped, cleaned and rebuilt my hs6 su carbs for my 4a project.  The car will be totally stained except for a phoenix tubular manifold and exhaust.

I got the carbs back together and I’m now looking to fit them back on the manifold.  But before I do I’d like to think they are set up as well as possible but I cannot seem to find a simple explanation how to do this.

Can anyone point me in the right direction on where to start please.

Many Thanks,

Steven

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Edited by Steven Whitaker
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Things I recall are.

Step of the needle is flush to the bottom of the piston.

The jet starts 2 1/2 turns down from flush to the bridge.

Piston drop in chamber, both must drop equally 

Jon Twins’s at University Motors did a good video on that.   It checks the pistons have not been swapped from their matched dash pot.

 

have you got this info?   http://tr4a.weebly.com/uploads/2/1/9/8/21980360/type_hs_tuning__tervicing.pdf
 

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22 minutes ago, Steven Whitaker said:

I also read about float level somewhere.  But I can’t find the thread..  Is float level important?

Yes   But it is not detailed here

http://tr4a.weebly.com/uploads/2/1/9/8/21980360/type_hs_tuning__tervicing.pdf

 

Have you renewed the needle valves in the float chamber lids?   What type of floats do you have?   All plastic or plastic and brass hinge connector?   The second type are adjustable.   First are fixed.

 

go to this link and find the service manual for your car and download the pdf.s

 

http://tr4a.weebly.com/triumph-tr-pdf-downloads.html

 

 

 

 

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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I did the test.  When I swap them around the fast drop swaps so guess this is not good?

Will this give me issues later on?

Is there anything I can do to improve the difference in drop time?

 

Thanks.

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Whats the tape wrapped round the piston bases? If theres more on one than the other then that biases the drop anyway. You can polish the outside of the slower piston with some Duraglit lightly to lessen the drag on the slower one to match. I see the bodies have been blasted I hope the inside wasnt.

Stuart.

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29 minutes ago, stuart said:

Whats the tape wrapped round the piston bases? If theres more on one than the other then that biases the drop anyway. You can polish the outside of the slower piston with some Duraglit lightly to lessen the drag on the slower one to match. I see the bodies have been blasted I hope the inside wasnt.

Stuart.

Thanks.  The tape is to block the holes as per the YouTube video.  Only the outside of the dash pot was Vapour blasted.

Ill give it a go with Duraglit thanks,

Are my findings likely to affect the running?  I don’t really understand how these work.

 

 

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7 minutes ago, Steven Whitaker said:

Thanks.  The tape is to block the holes as per the YouTube video.  Only the outside of the dash pot was Vapour blasted.

Ill give it a go with Duraglit thanks,

Are my findings likely to affect the running?  I don’t really understand how these work.

 

 

They do need to rise at the same time to allow a balanced airflow.

Stuart.

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1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Yes   But it is not detailed here

http://tr4a.weebly.com/uploads/2/1/9/8/21980360/type_hs_tuning__tervicing.pdf

 

Have you renewed the needle valves in the float chamber lids?   What type of floats do you have?   All plastic or plastic and brass hinge connector?   The second type are adjustable.   First are fixed.

 

go to this link and find the service manual for your car and download the pdf.s

 

http://tr4a.weebly.com/triumph-tr-pdf-downloads.html

 

 

 

 

What a great link, thanks.  I’ve got the brass and plastic floats.  And yes I fitted new float chamber valves and housings.  Thanks.

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The pistons are normally matched to the bodies so you shouldn't muddle them up - if you haven't recorded which goes with what , then try swapping the pistons and bodies around

Cheers Rich

Edited by rcreweread
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Not really a fair test, it needs to be the other way round so pistons drop as different weight covers would skew the test.

Stuart.

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Near enough for the minute, I usually take the needles out to save any possible bending.

Stuart.

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2 hours ago, Steven Whitaker said:

What a great link, thanks.  I’ve got the brass and plastic floats.  And yes I fitted new float chamber valves and housings.  Thanks.

You need to explore the forum.

There are shed loads more of info in The Bonanza. In general technical.

 

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49 minutes ago, stuart said:

Near enough for the minute, I usually take the needles out to save any possible bending.

Stuart.

I’ve just fitted new needles after all the above.  Thanks for your advice.

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43 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

You need to explore the forum.

There are shed loads more of info in The Bonanza. In general technical.

 

Will do.  I’m relatively new to the forum but will certainly have a dig around going forward.  Thanks, Steven.

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