stuart Posted July 13, 2023 Report Share Posted July 13, 2023 Interesting one here today, TR5 presented with a grossly distended top hose. After waiting for it to cool off a bit investigation revealed the reason. Repro rad had far too deep tangs on the filler neck return where the rad cap when you fit it needs to be pressed down to clear. As a result of this the repro rad cap ( recovery type) secondary rubber was forced up into a bunch that meant the centre pressure relief section wouldn’t work thus over pressuring the system to such an extent that the top hose was blown up like a balloon, luckily the top hose did have reinforcement in it but the inner layer had burst under the pressure and it wouldn’t have been very long before the whole thing would have blown with disastrous consequences. No names no pack drill but I know the suppliers Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted July 13, 2023 Report Share Posted July 13, 2023 (edited) That top hose has survived well. I'm surprised the heater matrix or its hoses had not gone west. The bulkhead connectors blow through because of rust too. Had a 2.5PI that the water system over pressured and that blew the on/off heater valve out of the matrix, spewing scalding water on my left leg. (15 lb cap fitted by owner instead of 7lb.) That was on the M40 between London and Oxford late one night. Can you rectify the filler neck bayonet tangs with a dremel or is it quicker to thrown the rad in the bin? Edited July 13, 2023 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted July 14, 2023 Report Share Posted July 14, 2023 Stuart - I trust you have informed the maker/supplier of the radiator in order that they may correct the design before others suffer this problem. Like Peter, I am very impressed by the strength of that top hose. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 14, 2023 Report Share Posted July 14, 2023 I am impressed by the fact that nothing else blew ! That's one watertight engine (& heater). Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted July 14, 2023 Report Share Posted July 14, 2023 (edited) Well found Stuart. !! can you post pics of the offending corresponding parts as I can’t see it in my minds eye. - I’m a very visual learner ?!! Edited July 14, 2023 by Hamish Auto correct !! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 14, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2023 (edited) 3 hours ago, Hamish said: Well found Stuart. !! can you post pics of the offending corresponding parts as I can’t see it in my minds eye. - I’m a very visual learner ?!! Not on that one as it was rectified and sent on its way but the picture below should hopefully show the bit I mean marked in blue, it’s a small tang that is supposed to stop the cap being flung off if it’s not turned down tight, when fitting the cap you have to press it down to overcome the tang and then turn to secure. The offending one had too deep a tang plus the rest of the return was a little too deep as well. The repro rad cap top rubber that turns it from an ordinary cap into a recovery cap that is essential for this type of cooling system to work properly was too thin and flimsy so the act of pressing the cap down really hard to overcome the tangs picked the rubber up and jammed it against the inner pressure relief spring and bingo pressure build up uncontrolled. Rectified by the use of a chainsaw file to shorten the tangs and then fitment of a new silicon top hose and a genuine NOS rad cap Stuart Edited July 14, 2023 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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