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Rear axle end float


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I have just had an diff refurnished by Tom and Pete Cox.

Having tried the first fit of the drive shafts to measure the shim requirement, I’m surprised to find that I will need considerably more shims than before dissembling……….how can this be? I believe all that was replaced was the bearings, the CW and pinion. Too late to contact them tonight.

Originally had around 50 thou each side, probably need 100 thou each side now. All I can think is a new button has been used and effectively lengthened the shaft. ( two half shafts plus button)

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Iain

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Built a few axles Iain but never seen that much play across the two sides - 5mm seems a heck of a lot, the button as you say seems a potential but would you really expect them to vary that much? From memory the last couple I've done were in the region of 30 -34 thou a side, may have to just phone Tom and enquire. If you need them on loan I've got a fair size assortment of shims I keep to get things spot on before fitting new ones.

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Thanks for the answers guys.

I’ve sorted it, this axle is the original (4.1)  which had 10” back plates on when removed it a couple of year ago to try a 3.7.

 The back plates are considerably thicker on the 10” version……I was trying for expedience to fit the 9” brakes off the axle that started to whine after the Castle Combe track day………you live and learn. :-)

Cheers 

Iain

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14 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

What wheel cylinder size do you use?   5/8” 0.7” 3/4” or 7/8”?   I currently use 0.7” and do not suffer rear lock up in the rain.  

Ive got 3/4" cylinders on 10" Alfins on my Girling axle 4a and that gives nice balanced braking especially as the weight distribution on that model is exactly 50/50

Stuart.

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I’ll check tomorrow, I need some Girling rebuild kits as they have been on the bench for two years and are a bit stuck.

Any advice as to a source would be welcome.

PS. Needed and extra 18 thou of shims to correct the float. ( 10” vs 9” backplate.)

Iain

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